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jl subs + jl e2150 + OEM Bose = SUCKS!

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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:21 PM
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jl subs + jl e2150 + OEM Bose = SUCKS!

Went to best buy and after they charged me $220 for installing a JL Prowedge 2 10" subs with a JL e2150 amp that I already have the sound is horrible.
I had this setup installed in a 2003 Eclipse and the setup sounded 10 times better. What do you think the problem could be?
I had the amp and subs stored for over a year in my garage, could it be that?
HELP !
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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How was it connected to the Bose head unit?

I bet your problem lies there. And $220 to install a sub and amp? What are you, nuts?

2 hours of your time and it would have been free. Installing a sub and amp in this car is cake.
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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I have no idea on what he used to connect the setup to the head unit.
I'm gonna bring the car back tomorrow but what do I tell them? Just that it doesn't perform like it did in my eclipse?
I actually bought a PAC interface piece thinkg they were going to need but they didn't. I guess he used something else.
About me not doing it, I have no idea on how car electronics work. Honestly I wouldn't even know where to start.
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Gian13
I have no idea on what he used to connect the setup to the head unit.
I'm gonna bring the car back tomorrow but what do I tell them? Just that it doesn't perform like it did in my eclipse?
I actually bought a PAC interface piece thinkg they were going to need but they didn't. I guess he used something else.
About me not doing it, I have no idea on how car electronics work. Honestly I wouldn't even know where to start.
Can you explain more on what's going on?

I have a jl setup too, 1 10w7 sub with 500/1 amp and have no problems and sound is great. This setup has been like this for about 2 years. I just installed the jl cleansweep and the sound is just as good as if i had a aftermarket head unit.
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Gian13
I have no idea on what he used to connect the setup to the head unit.
I'm gonna bring the car back tomorrow but what do I tell them? Just that it doesn't perform like it did in my eclipse?
I actually bought a PAC interface piece thinkg they were going to need but they didn't. I guess he used something else.
About me not doing it, I have no idea on how car electronics work. Honestly I wouldn't even know where to start.
Take it back and make them use the AOEM-NIS2 if you already bought it. Completely plug and play and known to work.


Also, I'm with Lee, exactly what is wrong with the sound? I've used the stock head unit with amps, subs, and components and it doesn't sound that bad. However, it sounded a lot better when connected with the proper bose interface rather than a run-of-the-mill line output converter.
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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It sounds as loud as the OEM subwoofer does. Meaning I can't even tell the subs are there.
Improvement in bass from 1 to 10? Probably a 2.
When the unit was in my eclipse believe me, that thing was looooud! The kind of loud that when driving through the local mall I would make all the car's alarm go off.
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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I wonder if he tapped off the wires going to the sub in the rear deck using a LOC.

Because what you described sounds exactly like what mine did when I did that ^ (the very first time).
Old Oct 15, 2006 | 11:35 PM
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That's exactly what they did....I install for best buy. They probably used a Line Out converter tapped the, regular speaker wires at the speakers behind the deck and only tapped one speaker instead of two which is bad because not all speakers are in phase. at best, ask them to fine tune the gain and etc on the amp. Also, 220 for installing that is ridiculous. Technically, based upon being a BB employee, we only charge 24.99 for the LOC install, 70 for the amp (run wires..RCA,Power,ground and mount to seat), and 5.00 materials fee, as far as parts go, the LOC that im assuming he used on your car is 25 but the bigger one that has two RCA outs is 45. you shouldn't have been charged all that much. lemme know what they charged you as far as the breakdown. It's some bull**** str8 up if they charged all that plus custom labor @16.99 per 1/4 hour. I only do that when the customer pisses me off....sorry only from experience. Try tuning it yourself first, then if all else fails, tell them to tune the adjustable LOC theres little screw type adjusters on the unit that you can turn to tune the sound to your liking. Specifically make sure you're specific at what soudn you want, clean and crisp hitting all low and not to loud or loud and obnoxious to rattle your trunk to fall apart...you get the idea. Good luck
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
I wonder if he tapped off the wires going to the sub in the rear deck using a LOC.

Because what you described sounds exactly like what mine did when I did that ^ (the very first time).
How did you fix it? When bringing the car back to best buy what exactly do I tell them to do?
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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let them use the PAC converter and have them give u back some money.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Gian13
How did you fix it? When bringing the car back to best buy what exactly do I tell them to do?
Yeah, what bi30 said. The way I fixed it was to buy and install the AOEM-NIS2 to connect it to the Bose HU properly.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MetaOrbit
Yeah, what bi30 said. The way I fixed it was to buy and install the AOEM-NIS2 to connect it to the Bose HU properly.

are there any sites that have it cheaper than 45 plus shipping as on ebay?
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 97lude
are there any sites that have it cheaper than 45 plus shipping as on ebay?
That's not a bad price.

I always bought my PAC products from affsave.com. I think they charged $60 shipped for the AOEM and ROEM units.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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Just came back from best buy, the guy took a look at what the saturday's technician did and found the problem. Apparently he connected the the amp to the input of the converter instead of the output.
Now the damn thing is too loud even at -5 Bass in the Bose HU. I guess I need to tune it down a little. I'll play with the amp settings tomorrow.
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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good to hear you fixed it.
My universal LOC was too darn quiet, so I used my clarion EQ to skyrocket the voltage input from only like 1.3V to almost 7 volts. Dont have to strain the amp anywhere near as hard and its LOUD now. Makes my roof and winshield wipers do a lil dance. Occasionally pops my corner lenses out....
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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Yeah, i really wish the clear side markers fit like the OEM ones. I even replaced the plastic clips with the OEM metal ones and it still pops out from time to time... although rarely.

sorry for being O/T... Glad to hear you got your sub working better. And liek you said, playing with the amp settings should fix the loudness. The installer probably turned the amp all the way up when he realized he fcuked up the install in an attempt to cover his mistake.
Old Oct 17, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Gian13
Just came back from best buy, the guy took a look at what the saturday's technician did and found the problem. Apparently he connected the the amp to the input of the converter instead of the output.
Now the damn thing is too loud even at -5 Bass in the Bose HU. I guess I need to tune it down a little. I'll play with the amp settings tomorrow.
Knew you were going to eventually get it fixed. The first thing I would have done was take it back and get Manager tech. to look at it. That's why I avoid going to places like best buy, circuit city and others big stores like that for stereo installs, or to even buy speakers, boxes or radio.

Once jl subs are hooked up correctly, you WILL need to turn down your bass. I have my w7 on -5 + half gain on the amp and it's still to damn loud.

my favorite spot www.acaraudio.com for car stereo equipment.
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