Hi all -

I was driving home from work this evening on the freeway and started noticing a rather odd smell coming from my car. At first I thought it was someone else, so I didn't make much of it until I got off the freeway, and my car engine stopped running. I pull off the road, put the car in park, and start it, but it stops immediately. Tried this a couple of times with the same results. So I finally keep the engine revved and put the car in drive (yeah, I know that's tough on the transmission, but I didn't want to be stuck on a busy road with a narrow shoulder) so that I could limp back to my house.

I've got a Haynes Manual for Maximas (which, I understand, is basically the same kind of car as my 2001 Infiniti I30), and states that I should check for loose or faulty connections at the distributor, coil, or alternator; or that there is insufficient fuel reaching the fuel injectors; or that there is a vacuum leak at the gasket between in the intake manifold/plenum and throttle body; or that the ideal speed is incorrect; or lastly, that perhaps there are intake air leaks or broken vacuum lines.

The odor that I smelled kind of reminded me of burning brakes, but I guess I am wondering if I should look at the fuse box in front of my left knee when I'm sitting in the driver's seat.

Anyway, since there are far more experienced wrenches than my pitiful self on this forum, I wanted to check in with you all first.

Any suggestions?

 

Based on what you described above, My guess is your Idle Air Control Valve died, and it possibly fried your ECM. That's bad news if that's the case.

 

Is ur check engine light on? If so wat codes do you have? It's not ur ecu because if it was ur ecu you wouldn't even be able to start it

 

I've not seen a service engine soon light when I'm able to keep the car running, and that's only by revving the engine.

 

Thanks. Based upon what I've seen in other internet postings, there definitely seems to be a correlation between the two. As to repair costs, I might have a business rebuild the ECM...or go to a junk yard or ebay to find a replacement and have it reprogrammed at the stealership. That will hopefully save me SOME money, if that is indeed the problem.

 

Could even be as simple as your MAF sensor... Pull for pending codes and report back.

 

I hooked up an auto scanner to my OBD port, and TLMNICK was correct in that it gave back a trouble code for the Idle Air Control Valve (P0505). I don't know if the ECM is fried as well, or not. Should I just purchase and install the IAC valve and see if the car will start and remain running at idle?

 

The best thing to do at this point is remove your ECU and open it up and check the chip(s) inside. That will tell you where to go next. Because I think the IACV is like $150-$200 if I recall.

 

I'm having a heck of a time trying to access the ECU screws to remove them. There's not enough room for a screwdriver or a socket wrench. Any suggestions?