My 2000 infiniti i30
#1
#5
Lol showing off.i hope this car last a long time.i despise car notes!!!! Hopefully my next car might be a 5.5 gen maxima or an 2000-2004 acura rl.Ive never been the type of person that has to have a new car.As long as the car has been kept up and I love it ill buy it. Hopefully if I get another car I can keep this one also. Thats the beauty of a buying cash car lol.i paid 4700 for this car last year. It had 105, 000 miles. I wanted a maxima but for some reason i30 amd i35s are cheaper here
#8
Nice mags. The car looks a thousand better than with my touring originals...
Plus from the distance, it looks dent/scratch/rust free so that's always a plus.
This car is a ****ing tank. My advice is to ride it till it dies in all honesty if you want to maximize the value. If you got a promotion/got a job/graduated/won the lottery/inherited a car, reconsider. If not, best financial decision is to stick to this. Even with repairs, it will cost you less than the depreciation (and potential repairs) of a newer car.
Plus from the distance, it looks dent/scratch/rust free so that's always a plus.
This car is a ****ing tank. My advice is to ride it till it dies in all honesty if you want to maximize the value. If you got a promotion/got a job/graduated/won the lottery/inherited a car, reconsider. If not, best financial decision is to stick to this. Even with repairs, it will cost you less than the depreciation (and potential repairs) of a newer car.
#9
What you can do is run the self diagnosis and see what the results are. In the HA section of the service manual, the procedure starts on page 36. Read before doing it. There is one section of the diagnostic that takes a while, so don't start thinking that the diagnostic stopped running.
If you need the manual, download it from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/I30/2000/HA.pdf
#10
It could be a bad temperature sensor. There are several sensors (4?) so that is a possibility and then there is a small motor that moves a temperature regulating (air mix) door inside the ducts that could be the problem.
What you can do is run the self diagnosis and see what the results are. In the HA section of the service manual, the procedure starts on page 36. Read before doing it. There is one section of the diagnostic that takes a while, so don't start thinking that the diagnostic stopped running.
If you need the manual, download it from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/I30/2000/HA.pdf
I went to nissan and got it checked out. They said that the harness to the amb temp sensor is damaged causing incorrect signal.harness needs to be repaired but I dont know where its located and yes I have used the search button on here lol.
#11
Nice mags. The car looks a thousand better than with my touring originals...
Plus from the distance, it looks dent/scratch/rust free so that's always a plus.
This car is a ****ing tank. My advice is to ride it till it dies in all honesty if you want to maximize the value. If you got a promotion/got a job/graduated/won the lottery/inherited a car, reconsider. If not, best financial decision is to stick to this. Even with repairs, it will cost you less than the depreciation (and potential repairs) of a newer car.
Plus from the distance, it looks dent/scratch/rust free so that's always a plus.
This car is a ****ing tank. My advice is to ride it till it dies in all honesty if you want to maximize the value. If you got a promotion/got a job/graduated/won the lottery/inherited a car, reconsider. If not, best financial decision is to stick to this. Even with repairs, it will cost you less than the depreciation (and potential repairs) of a newer car.
#12
I was thinking about getting a 00-02 accord 4cyl 5 speed.i like the i30 but every month since I had it its been costing money and these gas prices doesnt help.when I had my 98 accord, I rarely had to fix anything on that car but the i30 is the direct opposite. I had to fix the alternator, all 6 ignition coils, collant tank replaced, transmission speed sensor and now o2 sensor and my ac.i also forgot to mention my sunroof stop working.
#13
I think its just nissan quality. Many people on this site want to believe that they are more reliable than they really are due to the fact that they love maximas. 2 of my friends have maximas 2000 and the other has a 2003 and they have a lot of issues as well. I know its a 13 year old car but I know family members that have had Hondas, toyotas, even older nissans that didnt give them as many problems as my car has given me and my friends. Even when I go into the 6th and 7th gen forum, people are having issues and problems that they shouldnt really have of nissan would get their stuff together.the 6th gen forum is a nightmare lol.
#14
I think its just nissan quality. Many people on this site want to believe that they are more reliable than they really are due to the fact that they love maximas. 2 of my friends have maximas 2000 and the other has a 2003 and they have a lot of issues as well. I know its a 13 year old car but I know family members that have had Hondas, toyotas, even older nissans that didnt give them as many problems as my car has given me and my friends. Even when I go into the 6th and 7th gen forum, people are having issues and problems that they shouldnt really have of nissan would get their stuff together.the 6th gen forum is a nightmare lol.
#15
#16
Thanks dennis, youre awesome. I can seriously say even though ive had issues with my car, maxima.org is the most imformative and knowledgable forum that I have ever been a member of.seriously, someone always has an answer to a problem you have on here with pics vs other car forums.
#17
I think its just nissan quality. Many people on this site want to believe that they are more reliable than they really are due to the fact that they love maximas. 2 of my friends have maximas 2000 and the other has a 2003 and they have a lot of issues as well. I know its a 13 year old car but I know family members that have had Hondas, toyotas, even older nissans that didnt give them as many problems as my car has given me and my friends. Even when I go into the 6th and 7th gen forum, people are having issues and problems that they shouldnt really have of nissan would get their stuff together.the 6th gen forum is a nightmare lol.
Luck of the draw man. No matter what you drive, if it hasn't been maintained since new, there can always be problems. I had an 89 accord. Caught fire while I was at a job interview. Had 169k. Had a 99 TL. We all know how though trannys are. 95 Legend, blown head. I then got a 98 Infiniti. 6 years, and I all I ever had to do was change the oil, and the evap canister. And my '01 I've had for a little over 4 years now. 193k on it, 2nd owner. Most I put into it is changing the front struts, and that was by choice. Recalls and anamolies you can't avoid... But when it comes to a plan old good vehicle, we're not hyping up the Maxima, that's simply what it is. You just didn't run into the right one unfortunately. Doesn't seem like it was cared for properly. But anyone up here can tell you, you suck it up and give it some TLC, and you'll have it for a long time... I'm on my way to 200k and beyond!
Oh, and did you check the fuse for the sunroof, do you hear the motor trying to run when you press it?
#18
Luck of the draw man. No matter what you drive, if it hasn't been maintained since new, there can always be problems. I had an 89 accord. Caught fire while I was at a job interview. Had 169k. Had a 99 TL. We all know how though trannys are. 95 Legend, blown head. I then got a 98 Infiniti. 6 years, and I all I ever had to do was change the oil, and the evap canister. And my '01 I've had for a little over 4 years now. 193k on it, 2nd owner. Most I put into it is changing the front struts, and that was by choice. Recalls and anamolies you can't avoid... But when it comes to a plan old good vehicle, we're not hyping up the Maxima, that's simply what it is. You just didn't run into the right one unfortunately. Doesn't seem like it was cared for properly. But anyone up here can tell you, you suck it up and give it some TLC, and you'll have it for a long time... I'm on my way to 200k and beyond!
Oh, and did you check the fuse for the sunroof, do you hear the motor trying to run when you press it?
#19
Unfortunately, the power for the sunroof comes from the same circuit breaker that runs the windows and seats. There is also a 10 amp fuse (# 10) that is used for control purposes, but this fuse is also used by the windows, NATS system (to start the car), door chime, tail lights, fog lights, door lock remote control and more. I'm thinking this fuse is OK. What I suspect is that the motor for the sunroof is bad because it is more than just a motor, it has limit switches and a microprocessor inside it.
You are going to have to start checking voltages on the wires that plug into the motor for the sunroof. Is that something you can do? Do you have a voltmeter? Can you read electrical diagrams?
You are going to have to start checking voltages on the wires that plug into the motor for the sunroof. Is that something you can do? Do you have a voltmeter? Can you read electrical diagrams?
#20
^^ What he said, lol. The motor is located in front of where the roof opens. You may possibly be able to reach it by taking the dome light assembly down. I've never really fiddled around up there, maybe you can reach it after opening the roof. . but yeah, a voltmeter would be a good idea
#21
Ive never used a voltmeter but I guess ill have to try. At least the sunroof is closed so I really havent been to worried about it right now.ive been trying to get my ac fixed. Its hot as hell in memphis. I like the car but the electrical part of the car really pisses me off
#22
If you intend to work on cars, and not just Nissan/Infinity, you need to have a voltmeter. It's more important today than a screwdriver.
9 times out of 10 you can get by with a test light. They are cheaper (under $5), you can drop them without breaking them (usually) and smaller. They look something like a screwdriver with a wire coming out of the handle. You clip the wire to a metal part of the car (ground) and touch the other end to the wire or what ever you are testing. If the light bulb in the handle lights up, you have power there.
9 times out of 10 you can get by with a test light. They are cheaper (under $5), you can drop them without breaking them (usually) and smaller. They look something like a screwdriver with a wire coming out of the handle. You clip the wire to a metal part of the car (ground) and touch the other end to the wire or what ever you are testing. If the light bulb in the handle lights up, you have power there.
#23
my car doesnt have that sensor right there. either it wasnt there or it came off, nissan removed it etc. could you post some pics showing what its wired to???
Last edited by Young Christin; 06-12-2013 at 02:09 PM.
#24
The sensor is supposed to be there according to the Infiniti service manual, same as the Maxima. See the bottom of page 93:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/I30/2000/HA.pdf
I looked at my car to see where the wires ran. The wires are in a round plastic tube for protection, see my photo, post # 15. The tube with the wires run along the bumper cover, all the way to the right (passenger) side, then go up into the engine compartment where it merges into a big thick harness. There are no connectors between the thick harness and the sensor.
Look in the engine compartment, at the radiator overflow tank along the right fender. Near the bottom of the tank, you will see an opening in the inner fender and a big, thick wire harness running in front of it. This is the opening that the wires for the temperature sensor go through.
What I would guess at is that the bolt came out that holds the bracket that the sensor mounts on and the bracket and sensor managed to drop down and dangle beneath the car until something hit it and ripped it off.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Infiniti/I30/2000/HA.pdf
I looked at my car to see where the wires ran. The wires are in a round plastic tube for protection, see my photo, post # 15. The tube with the wires run along the bumper cover, all the way to the right (passenger) side, then go up into the engine compartment where it merges into a big thick harness. There are no connectors between the thick harness and the sensor.
Look in the engine compartment, at the radiator overflow tank along the right fender. Near the bottom of the tank, you will see an opening in the inner fender and a big, thick wire harness running in front of it. This is the opening that the wires for the temperature sensor go through.
What I would guess at is that the bolt came out that holds the bracket that the sensor mounts on and the bracket and sensor managed to drop down and dangle beneath the car until something hit it and ripped it off.
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