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The y-pipe was $300 shipped, it came with two donut gaskets, a gasket for the catalytic converter, a hanger that is located were the y-pipe and cat meet and two new bolts and nuts that connect the y-pipe to the cat. The y-pipe is a direct fit, no fab work needed. The 02 sensor holes are in the same spot as the OEM pipe, the holes will come with anti-seize already applied.
The main difference is that there are no pre-cats, so it will be a little louder but the rest of my exhaust remains stock, so the sound is not bad. I can’t hear the y-pipe at cruising speed. It is also a lot lighter than the OEM y-pipe. You will be able to pass emissions. You can use a seal puller to pull the old transmission seals.
Wow...this one is in mint condition. Such a great find. I knew these existed but have never seen one in person. This one has everything going for it, the color combo, low mileage, all options, overall condition, and it’s a manual. Some Japanese cars from the 90’s have reached collectors status, I don’t know if the 4th gen will ever get there but if it does, this is the one to have. Great job on keeping her maintained the right way. In the future, If you ever decide to sell for whatever reason you can message me.
I had the water pump replaced as preventative maintenance after a few members here had the o-rings fail in the last year or so. Definitely didn’t want that happening and possibly mixing coolant and oil. This wasn’t a job I was comfortable dealing with, I took it to a guy that has done this job many times before. Also had the tensioner pulley replaced since it had to come out anyway.
Found a 99 limited wood grain wheel, but I much prefer the sport wheel. If I find a 4th gen Max, I’ll probably use the wood grain wheel. I also have another sport wheel that I’ll probably put up for sale.
I love those wood grain wheels. What's different about the "sport" wheel, just the controls?
The controls are the same, the difference is that the sport wheel (98-99 touring and 97-99 SE) has perforated leather and the air bag is a different design compared to a base i30/GLE/GXE.
I was getting a "ghost code" P0325 (knock sensor) . I replaced it with a new one from Nissan. While I was in there I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor.
How did you get to the knock sensor? My 98 I30 had a P0325. I cleared the codes on the ECU and it hasnt come back since. What exactly is a ghost code?
How did you get to the knock sensor? My 98 I30 had a P0325. I cleared the codes on the ECU and it hasnt come back since. What exactly is a ghost code?
Here’s a link to a video showing how to replace the knock sensor. It’s a 2 part video, the link to the second video is in the description. A ghost code is a code that’s stored but doesn’t set off the check engine light.
That looks so clean. Was it a direct swap or did you need to splice harnesses?
Thanks. I bought a 9004/H4 harness adapter that connects between the H4 bulb and wire harness because the Cefiro headlights use H4 bulbs. This allowed me to avoid cutting into my harness and it allows me to return to the stock headlight assembly without any issues.
The side lamp (city light) is different though. The stock side lamp has its own harness and houses two bulbs (city light and turn signal). The stock turn signal housing will fit in the Cefiro headlight assembly but the city light housing does not.
The stock city light housing has three notches and is short, while the Cefiro city light housing has four notches and is considerably taller. So you must pull/splice the ground and power wire from the stock city light housing and connect it to the Cefiro city light housing.
To avoid doing this to my side lamp harness, I pulled two side lamp harnesses from my local yard from a i30 and did what I mentioned above. Again, if I choose to go back to my stock side lamps, which the original harness is still connected to, I can do so without any issue.
If you don’t care for the city lamp, then you can skip that part and it all becomes plug-n-play with the exception of a 9004/H4 harness adapter. On a side note, these are the headlights the i30 should’ve came with from the factory.
9004/H4 harness adapter
What it looks like connected between the H4 bulb and 9004 wire harness.
The stock city light housing circled in blue with the ground and power wires which must be spliced into the Cefiro city light housing circled in red.
The stock side lamp harness you will have to pull from a yard if you don’t want to cut into your existing side lamp harness. The smaller bulb is the city light.
If you don’t care for the city lamp, then you can skip that part and it all becomes plug-n-play with the exception of a 9004/H4 harness adapter. On a side note, these are the headlights the i30 should’ve came with from the factory.
I agree they look so much better. Thanks for the info, Need to get some for my 97
Just replaced these power steering hoses when I noticed the big hose was starting to leak at the bottom where it connects to the power steering pump. The smaller hoses weren’t leaking but they looked old enough to replace. Refilled the reservoir with fresh fluid. I also replaced the steering rack rubber bushings.
A few months ago my 99 maxima developed a misfire once the engine was at operating temperature. No check engine light, and no codes were stored. The coils were working properly and the spark plugs were in normal shape. Then I started to get hard/long cranking starts at random. The car would normally start on two cranks.
So I changed the easy stuff first, fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter. Still had the same symptoms. Still, no check engine light. At this point I decided to wait until the problem was consistent. Finally I got a code for a random misfire. I pulled the spark plugs once again and that's when I found plug #3 soaked in fuel.
I knew now that I had at least one bad injector. When I pulled all the injectors, I found that injectors 1,2,3,5 were all bad.
• I replaced the injectors with rebuilt OEM from Motorman.
• Installed new spark plugs
• Replaced the rear valve cover gasket
• Cleaned the IACV and the throttle body
• Cleaned the EGR door handle
• Replaced a rubber fuel line
• Replaced the U shaped coolant hose behind the intake plenum
• Replaced the rubber insulators under the fuel rail.
• Replaced the rubber vacuum hose that connects to the front and rear valve cover
Once everything was put back together, the car started right up in two cranks.
3 more injectors looked like this one.
Last edited by 98 i30t 5spd; Apr 29, 2024 at 03:19 AM.
Wow great job, that's a lot of work! I bet it runs so much better now.
Thanks. After the initial start up, I let it run for about 15 minutes and it sounds great. The idle was perfect. I’ll take it out sometime today and I’ll see how it does after a good drive.
I drove the Maxima and it sounds great. No more random misfire, or long cranking starts. It idles quietly and smoothly now. Hooked up the OBD scanner and everything was clear.
Also, I picked up some parts from a Maxima that was at a junkyard. I might use them on my Maxima. The fog lights are for a 95-96 Maxima which I’ll post for sale. I also picked up a set of 2002 i35 sport wheels for my i30t. It had a full size spare in the trunk which I also bought. As for the i30t, it got a wash and went back under the car cover.
Rear sway bar, Megan racing coilovers, red/clear taillights. 95-96 fog lights. 2002 i35 sport wheels with a full size spare.
