IP Cyborg

Greetings Maxima.org members!

I used 'search' to try to find out if others had similar issues, but did not find the exact issue being talked about. I just recently picked up a 2000 i30t and it has just a couple of little issues that I would like to remedy. One is that the little map light by the sunroof switch supposedly blows a fuse (the previous owner described) and two, neither of the sunroof switches do anything. I would like to use both of them so I need to fix them.

I could not identify which fuse/circuit the map light shares, but I suspect it is shared with the same circuit the sunroof uses...which is likely why they both do not work. I also don't want to just replace the fuse and have it blow again right away (or risk potential fire hazard if the short is in a bad place).

Has this circuit been an issue with others? Any ideas on where the short may have occurred?

Thank you in advance for your ideas!

IP Cyborg

I have exhausted the troubleshooting steps I could do without having to pull the headliner out. I really don't want to do that. ...but I guess I will have to to get it working again. So much easier to do in a hatchback :/ Oh well.

IP Cyborg

"Alexa? How do I fix a non-working Nissan sunroof?" - (in Alexa's voice) Just consult the FSM or call the dealer. $1000.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The map light and the sunroof do not share any fuse(s). The map light is part of the dome light electrical circuit (fuse # 10 in the dash, top row, 2nd from right end). But the fuse does not connect directly to the map light. The fuse goes to the SECU which then sends the power to the map light. If fuse 10 is blown, you will not have the dome light, vanity lights in the sun visors, the trunk light and a few others.

The main power to the sunroof is from the power window and seat circuit That is 40 amp fuse I under the hood that feeds a circuit breaker under the dash. If the windows work, it is not the main power feed.

There are 2 possibilities. The ground wire going up to the pod in the roof may have been broken, come loose or been removed by someone. Nissan does not rely on chassis ground as part of the circuit. Find the solid black wire on the motor and do a continuity test to a good chassis ground, preferably under the dash.

Other possibility is that the SECU module is fubar. As I mentioned about the map lights, The SECU provides power to the sunroof control circuits.

IP Cyborg

Thank you very much DennisMik. That is very useful knowledge to learn and I am going to dig in to that direction. Cheers and thanks again!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

This obviously was a stab at me....

Had you consulted the FSM, you would have figured out what Dennis told you!

FSM FTW....

FSM>Dealer

The only time I may suggest someone to go the dealer is when they have a 99 and have the dreaded NATS issue and their local locksmiths don't have the right diagnostic/programming tool.

Hope you figure out your issue.

IP Cyborg

Hopefully there are no hard feelings. When car stuff dies/breaks and I need to replace it, I look for opportunities for improvement. In the alternator thread where we had this exchange of opinions, I was considering 2018 and not 2001. In 2018, folks are putting lots of aftermarket electronic gear in their cars; i.e. Android tablets, device chargers, upgraded audio equipment, A/V gear to placate children, higher output lighting, interior lighting...the list could go on and on. All of that stuff needs juice. Also, summer is fast approaching and many of us are going to get baked in the heat....especially here in Phoenix where I live...which is why Nissan chose Maricopa (now a suburb of Phoenix) to do their hot weather testing. You do not want to be changing an alternator in a Maxima or i30 (or any car) on the side of the road when it is 110f.

I was speaking from real-world experience and you were speaking from the FSM which is for Nissan trained mechanics that work in air conditioned (swamp coolers, usually) garages with nice car lifts and a full spectrum of tools.

I consulted the FSM, as provided in your forum signature (thank you for the link, btw. I did find it useful and I bookmarked it), but didn't have the time to wade through 37,000,000 characters of badly searchable PDF text...and I don't have the extra money to spend on the paper version that most likely sells for a couple hundred dollars if it can even be gotten at all.

Pertinent to my situation, I am probably going to have to upgrade my alternator (even though the one in there now is working just fine) because I want to put in some computing gear and use some relatively high powered audio gear...which means I will likely have to modify some stuff to make it happen. Grind some flanges, adjust some mounting points, yadda yadda... I will figure it out.

Did you upgrade your alternator when you added that supercharger to your whip? You should have.

Cheers neighbor and happy Easter!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Thanks, hope you had a nice Easter too.

Of all my Maximas, 5 of them have some sort of Forced Induction, 4 of which have 110a alternators for many years now w/o issue. One of the 5 has Forced Induction and a pretty intense stereo system. The previous owner had deep pockets and had the original 110a alternator custom rebuilt to 125a, and installed a second battery and huge capacitors to help offset the load of the stereo.

IP Cyborg

Spends $5k+ to supercharge their car so they can beat me to the next stoplight...balks at spending $50 more for a better alternator to cope with modern electronics.

Cheers though, and I am glad you have been fortunate enough to afford 5+ supercharged Maximas.

IP Cyborg

Hopefully, you are approaching this with a little bit of humor as I am. What better way to get to know others than to explore our differences in opinion?