My I35 is stalling at idle but runs normally above 1,000 rpm and starts strong. I believe it's a vacuum leak but my repair shop says it's the MAF sensor. Problem is, the current sensor was replaced 6 months ago (by a different repair shop) and has been working fine. The current sensor was installed because of the same stalling problem at idle but eventually the problem was diagnosed as a vacuum leak so I'm pretty sure the current sensor was not necessary. Now this repair shop claims the current sensor is incorrect for the I35 and they want to put in a Delco AF10168 for $500 The current sensor is a Hitachi 2680-6N20A. I've been down this road before with the MAF sensor diagnosis and it cost me money, time and much aggravation. My question is this: what is a "correct" or "best" MAF sensor for the I35? Knowing that would be a good start. Then I'll try and sort out what the actual problem I'm facing is.

 

you need to find another shop, these people have no idea what they're talking about, they're just trying to sell you parts and make money
I once thought that I had a MAF problem, went through junk yards and tried 10 different ones and it made absolutely zero difference so what they're telling you is BS
If you suspect a vaccum problem then have another shop test for leaks with a smoke machine!

come to think of it, I've had issues stalling on idle especially when first starting the car and the hotter and humider it gets the worse it is
solution: remove throttle body and clean clean clean! oh and you actually want to take the time and completely remove the whole thing so that you can clean well inside and out both sides
some guys jam a screwdriver in there without removing it and clean it that way but that does not work well at all in my experience, only about 25% as effective