CystumMax

Exterior Color = Gray
Interior Color = Black

Asking 7,000.00 with the 18" wheels Or best offer!!! Call or PM if you are are interested. click here for a free car fax..
http://www.carfax.com/cfm/FSBO.cfm?r...7199001135B856


I am selling my 99 Nissan Maxima GLE. I love this car and I took care of it as if it was my baby. I only used Synthetic Oil on this car. I spent a lot of money into this car including maintenance and performance. It runs great and it is smooth when you drive it on a bumpy road. This car has 86421 Miles on it. It has been converted from Auto into 5 Speed Manual Tranny from an Infinity I30 (LSD) Very Rare and it is hard to find. It has a new clutch about 4 months old. Alternator has been changed by Nissan. I usually drive this car on the weekends. Most of it is highway mileage. Clean Car Fax. Serious bidders only. There are three sets of wheel with this car. Good luck and enjoy this car. I hate to let go of it... If you have any question please feel free to call me @ 917.952.0408 ask for Sam (Soheil). Vehicles is being sold AS-IS.

Condition: Engine is in a excellent condition, there are no mechanical problem with the engine. Engine is very quite and smooth. Fuel filter has been replaced by Nissan 300Z year 96. Nissan 300Z has a bigger fuel filter then regular 99 Nissan Maxima provide a cleaner fuel delivery to the injectors. 1 Coil pack has been replaced by Nissan. It has brand new alternator that was also replaced by Nissan, if you perform a car fax on this car you will see the date this car was at Nissan for service. This car has extended warranty that runs out by end of Jan 2007. There is no Check Engine light with my car. I used premium gas on this car since I had it (93 octane) and I still use Premium gas, it does make a different I also recommend the winner do the same thing. Also the Knock sensor has been replaced. O2 sensor has been replaced as well. Full maintenance was done at Maximum Tunning about 6 months ago, Fuel injector cleaning and spark plugs replaced, and throttle body cleaning. Transmission shifts very smooth like a brand new car. This car has a excellent pick up there is no lag when you press on the gas. There is couple of minor dents on the hood. It is very hard to detect from far away. You have to look closely to see it. There is scratch on the rear bumper (left hand side). Interior is very clean. Leather is in a good condition there are no cracks. Car Has been inspected, If you live in NY State you do not need a inspection Until late 2007 (Dec,9,2007). I had my car inspected on 12-9-06 Click on this link for pic http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...s/IMG_0472.jpg. Oil has been changed on time, and only synthetic oil. When you purchase this car please use Synthetic oil 10w 30. It also comes with Optima Yellow top battery.
This car has been very well maintained. Breaks and the tires are in perfect condition. If you want pictures email me. I love this car and I hope the person who buys this car takes care of it as well. It is hard to let go........ I also have most of of the receipt work that was done to my car. I will provide that to the buyer. Please take a good care of this car. Feel free to check the KBB book value of this car, and carfax. Clifford RS3 Alarm - Two way alarm system. With windows module. When you lock the doors with the alarm, it will automatically roll the front windows up. Also it is one touch up and down for front windows. (Driver and Passenger Side)

Current book value of this:

Excellent
$8,625
Good
$7,995
Fair
$7,165


Current Mods / Features:
- Factory Bose Stereo is also included with this price.
- Sunroof
- Tinted windows (20%).
- JWT Pop charger.
- Bose premium speakers.
- ABS
- Front power seats.
- Leather with heated front seats. (Driver/Passenger Side)
- Side Air bags.
- H&R Springs.
- KYB AGX Struts.
- Stillen Y-PIPE
- Greddy SP2 full exhaust system. – Installed 5 months ago.
- Helios HID 6000K Head/Fog Lights (http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=501071).
- Strut bar.
- Momo Shift ****
- 7" Lilliput Touch screen in Dash Screen / Including a Slim PS2 In the glove dept.
- Pioneer DEH7400MP MP3/XM/CD radio. 3 months of subscription Included.( http://www.buyxt.com/xts2/productnew...prod=DEH7400MP)
- 18" AK-4 Hyper Silver Akita Wheels/Tires. (Set of 4).
- 17" SE wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)
- 15" GLE Wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)

EPA Fuel Economy:

City: 22 Highway: 27

Engine:

190-hp, 3.0-liter V-6

Available Transmissions: 4-speed automatic w/OD
5-speed manual w/OD



** YOU CAN CONNECT A LAPTOP OR CARPUTER TO THE IN DASH LCD SCREEN. COMPUTER IS NOT INCLUDED WITH THIS AUCTION. PLEASE REFER TO THIS WEBSITE FOR MORE INFO ON HOW TO DO THAT MODIFICATION. http://www.mp3car.com/

CystumMax

CystumMax

CystumMax

CystumMax

CystumMax

CystumMax

CystumMax

StrangeMAX

got a price wihtout

- 18" AK-4 Hyper Silver Akita Wheels/Tires. (Set of 4).
- 17" SE wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)
- 15" GLE Wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)
- and that Play station ?

CystumMax

StrangeMAX check your PM.

pimp349

iTrader: (2)

Hey, I cant PM yet. I live in Brooklyn, NY, can you email me at maverick_su39@yahoo.com for a price without all the stuf listed above by StrangeMAX:

- 18" AK-4 Hyper Silver Akita Wheels/Tires. (Set of 4).
- 17" SE wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)
- 15" GLE Wheels with Tires. (Set of 4)
- and that Play station ?

CystumMax

Pimp349, check your email.

96MaximuzGXE

iTrader: (2)

hey i have 96 black max auto and i wanted to do a 5 spd conversion i was wondering if you add all the parts for it, email me about it.

Peace

CystumMax

Parts Needed:
5spd tranny (try and get the I30 LSD or Canadian Maxima LSD if possible – doubt it)
Both Manual drive shafts (if you have ABS you need specific ones, if you don't have ABS you can use ABS ones)
1 clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing)
2 shifting rods (support rod + control rod) (acquire used w/ all the hardware)
Return spring (connect to the 2 shifting rods (Buy this new, the stiffer the tighter your shifter feels)
1 5spd starter
1 shifter (Acquire used to get nuts and bolts (buy with the shifter rods)
1 shifter console piece (interior)
1 shift consul bracket (Replaces your auto one) (interior) (dealer name plate bolt and transaxle hole cover)
1 brake pedal
1 clutch pedal
1 master cylinder
Hydraulic lines for clutch
1 slave cylinder for clutch
1 extra set of tranny harnesses (might come w/ 5spd tranny)
1 18ga wire and wiretaps
Assorted cotter pin set.
1 Manual Fly wheel
1 Manual motor mount
Tranny Fluid (GL-4 or redline is preferable)
Locking pin and clip for the clutch pedal to the master cylinder (you could bend a nail but I would go to the dealer and pay $4)
2 nuts that fit the threads on the clutch pedal.
1 bolt that bolts in the top of the clutch pedal (the dealer can find it's size for you)
1 bolt that connects the control rod to the tranny (the dealer can find it's size for you)
1 Haynes Manual just in case you need extra help

Preface: The whole idea behind a manual transmission is there is no electronics needed to run it – basically, our slogan was, if the car starts and revs, the conversion will work. The converted car did not have ABS, but our donor car did – ABS IS A PAIN because it sits right where you will run the hydraulic lines (In a factory 5 speed w/ ABS the lines run under the ABS brain)! Factor in more time if you have Antilock Brakes System. The converted car was a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE, and the donor car was a '96 Nissan Maxima SE w/ ABS – I don't know about other year Maxima's, but I would assume all 4th gens are somewhat the same when it comes to this conversion (please email me if you know otherwise). I am not liable if you mess up your car, mine worked PERFECT, but don't blame me if you screw it up!

Overview:
1. Bypass the P-N start switch
2. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system
3. Remove drive shafts
4. Remove tranny + torque converter
5. Install clutch setup.
6. Install tranny
7. Replace old shifter console w/ new and run shifting rods to tranny
8. Reinstall drive shafts

Very Detailed, Broken Down Instructions:

1 Bypass the P-N start switch
1.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) to make sure you don't mess something up electrically.
1.2 Remove the entire air box assembly and lines so you can see onto the top of your tranny.
1.3 Disconnect the harness that goes into the front of the tranny that only has 2 wires. (Note: the front of the tranny refers to the part that is closest to the front of the car)
1.4 Get your wire and cut a 6 inch strip
1.5 Use the wire taps to connect the 6 inch piece of wire to both of those wires (This will in effect connect these wires)
Add-on to the instructions:
In step 1.5, it says to connect two wires on the tranny harness. You instead, need to run a wire from both of the tranny wires, to the clutch pedal switch (small switch that is engaged when you push the clutch all the way down). This will let your car know when it is "Neutral (since it thinks it is an automatic)".. your reason for doing this, is so that 1. You cant start the car without the clutch (safety)... and #2, SO CRUISE CONTROL WILL WORK.

1.6 Don't reconnect the plug.
1.7 Connect the battery.
1.8 Put your parking brake on
1.9 Try to crank your car (Don't start it, just see if it cranks)
· If it does not, re-tap the wires or connect them in some way. And try to start again.
· If it still does not start you can't follow instructions and are not capable of doing this yourself since it is the easiest part.


2. Install pedals and clutch hydraulic system
Tools needed:
· Drill
· Phillips head screw driver
· Metric socket set w/ extensions
· Good drill bit set
· Pencil
· Tree bit (stone bit shaped like a tree, they sell it at Home Depot)
· Cylinder bit (stone bit shaped like a cylinder, they sell it at Home Depot)

2.1 TAKE OFF BATTERY CLAMPS (neg and pos) you don't want to burn anything up or blow your airbags.
2.2 Remove lower drivers dash cover (2 Phillips head screws at the bottom)
· Pull the cover off w/ caution not to damage the clips at the top.
2.3 Remove the Metal bracket just under the steering wheel (2 12mm bolts)
2.4 Remove the plastic shield from around the steering wheel column (6 Phillips head screws)
2.5 Pull the cover apart and off.
2.6 Remove the plastic housing around the Speedo. (2 Phillips. screws) pull it being careful not to damage the clips at the bottom.
2.7 Unplug the items that are mounted on it.
2.8 Remove 4 screws that hold in the Speedo.
2.9 Pull the Speedo out toward the passenger side. (you can leave it connected)
2.10 Remove the 2 12mm bolts that are now visible where the Speedo sat on the lower left side. That holds a bracket in.
2.11 Reinstall the Speedo. (Don't worry about those screws needing to go back in)
2.12 Reinstall the plastic housing
2.13 Remove the clip and pin that hold the brake pedal cable on.
2.14 Remove the 4 nuts that hold the break pedal on.
2.15 Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the top of the break pedal on.

· You will see where it goes because you will have manual one as a reference
· Hopefully you have bought a matching bolt from Nissan, if not take it to the dealer and get one. You can't install the clutch pedal w/out it.
2.16 Remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering wheel up.
2.17 Lower the steering wheel and let it rest on the seat.
2.18 Remove the metal bracket that the lowest left nut went on.
· Remember you took 2 bolts out of it before in the Speedo area.

2.19 Throw that bracket away. (It is useless.)
2.20 Remove the brake pedal.

2.21 Install the new pedal. (Put the 4 nuts on and the one bolt)
2.22 Put the locking pin in and the clip.
2.23 Bolt your wheel back up. (The three remaining bolts will be good enough.)
2.24 Look up where it seems the clutch should mount.
2.25 If you see a hole in the padding good. If not, you can see it outlined. (Pull it out)

2.26 Now you should be faced w/ a perfect padding hole but no hole through the firewall.
2.27 Make a trace of the master cylinder (I used cardboard)

· It will have a big hole and 2 little ones for the bolts
2.28 Cut out your trace and slide it over the master cylinder to make sure it is accurate.
2.29 Mark the top of your trace (that canister on the master cylinder is up)
2.30 Fit it into that area that is punched out under the dash and draw an outline (pencil works great)
2.31 Open the hood.
2.32 Look into the upper driver side area against the firewall.
· You will see the cruise unit.
· It is the only electronic item in that area.
2.33 Remove it.
· There will be one bolt on it and 2 nuts that you access in the wheel well.
2.34 Drill your 2 small holes for the master cylinder from your trace. (From the inside of the car was the easiest.)
2.35 Test the clutch pedal (by putting it through the holes you drilled)
· The clutch pedal should be upright and level.
· It should fit in there w/out force.
· If it does not fit adjust the holes so it does.
2.36 Drill a good size hole in the big part of the trace (Where the master cylinder goes.)
2.37 Use your tree stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
2.38 Use your cylinder stone bit to make it bigger and work to carve out the hole to the traced size.
2.39 Test the master cylinder in the hole.
· If it does not fit correct the hole
Note: On a factory car w/ 5speed there is a spacer that is ¾ of an inch thick that is on the inside of the firewall. The 2 bolts that are on the clutch pedal that travel through the firewall go through this spacer, and somehow you will need to recreate it (VERY IMPORTANT!! that you get it just the right size, maybe buy the spacer from Nissan).
2.40 You can recreate it by getting big nuts that fit over these screws and using them as a spacer (or better yet, buy one from Nissan).
2.41 Install the clutch pedal and master cylinder.
2.42 Install the bolt you acquired to match the brake pedal bolt. (The car has this place built in just look for the place)
2.43 Install the locking pin to join the master cylinder and the clutch pedal.
2.44 Put the pin in it.
2.45 Reinstall every panel you removed except the one you tossed.
2.46 Pat yourself on the back.

3. Remove Drive shafts
Tools Needed:
· Phillips head screw driver
· Flat head screw driver
· Metric socket set. (7mm-19mm)
· Metric wrench set (7mm-19mm)
· A good breaker bar
· 1.5" socket that will attach to your breaker bar.
· Needle nose pliers
· 1 jack
· 2 jack stands
· Tie rod removal tool (You want the one that screws) (Buy at AutoZone)

3.1 Get on totally nasty "throw away" clothes because you are not going to even want to see them ever again!
3.2 Loosen lug nuts.
3.3 Jack the car up very high, to where the tires are about 9-12in above the ground. Place jack stands under it!!!
3.4 Remove your wheels.

· Apply 3.5 – 3.14 parts to both wheels.
3.5 Remove the cotter pin from the center of the rotor area (Wheel Hub)
3.6 Remove the cotter pin from the bolt that connects the Knuckle and the Tie rod.
3.7 Insert the screw driver into the rotor (in those little holes around the diameter)
3.8 Remove that Huge Nut in the center of the rotor. (1.5 inch socket and the breaker bar will be necessary)
3.9 Get the washer off and keep all of these parts clean.
3.10 Remove the nut that holds the tie rod on.
3.11 Use your tie rod remover to loosen it on the knuckle. Then pull it apart.
3.12 Remove the 2 bolts that join the suspension to the Knuckle area.
3.13 Fold the knuckle (brake assembly) area out of the way while LIGHTLY banging on the end of the big threaded shaft you removed the large nut from
· Don't screw up the treads. You can protect them by putting the nut back on and making it even w/ the end.
3.14 You should now have the driveshaft hanging free on the outsides of the car.
3.15 On the driver's side, push the driveshaft in a little bit (It compresses), and yank it out – you might have to do it a few times before it comes free. (It will POP out)
3.16 Remove that driveshaft and be very careful not to break the rubber boots.
3.17 On the passenger side, you must go under the car and find the support that the driveshaft goes through before it gets to the tranny. It's a pain to get at, but there are 3 bolts in a triangle around the outside of the support holding the driveshaft in.
3.18 Remove the three 12mm bolts, and then push in the shaft and pull it out. Be very careful not the break the rubber boots and gently set the two drive shafts aside.
3.19 Pat Yourself on the back you have successfully removed your drive shafts.
Note: Your Shocks/Springs are only 8 min and 3 bolts away from replacement if you want to do it at this time.


4. Remove tranny + torque converter
Tools Needed:
· Everything from drive shaft removal.
· 1 hydraulic Jack
· 1 Nissan Factory Jack
· 2 bricks (You might need them, depends how high your car is)
· One extra person
4.1 You now must remove your whole air intake system from the top of the engine. Everything including the rubber 3" flexible hose. (After your MAF and all that) and unscrew the little clamp. Gently pull it away, and take out all the other bolts (this will be a little different if you have pop vs. cai vs. stock) so you can figure it out. Get all those hoses off and out of the way, so you can see easily down to the tranny.
4.2 Remove all plugs that go into the tranny.
4.3 Remove the dipstick for the auto tranny , it has one bolt at its base.
4.4 Remove the rubber lines that go into the tranny, you can cut them because you won't use them again.
4.5 Remove the plug that connects to the starter
4.6 Remove the fat wire (pos) that connects to the start itself.
4.7 Remove the starter. (2 17mm bolts)
4.8 Pull the starter out.
4.9 Remove the plastic panels from the driver side wheel well so you can see the side of the tranny.
4.10 Remove the linkage line that goes to the front of the tranny (Fat cable that bolts next on at the front left corner of the tranny)
4.11 Put your hydraulic jack under the tranny.
· Just on to the tranny, not so much pressure you are jacking the engine up.
4.12 Remove all the bolts that bolt the tranny on (there are 17mm on top and 14mm on the bottom) except for one 17mm on the front. Just loosen it a little.
· These bolts will be hard to break and you will need a breaker bar to loosen them.
4.13 Put your Factory Nissan jack under the support beam (Runs under the Engine/Tranny) toward the front, up close to those 2 bolts but leave enough room so you can loosen and remove them.
· This is where you might need the brick to get up to the beam.
4.14 Look down from the top on to your tranny.
4.15 You will see a motor mount sort of next to your battery w/ 4 bolts going into the tranny
4.16 Remove these bolts.
4.17 Very slowly, lower the transmission 1/2"(Hydraulic Jack) and then the engine 1/2"(Nissan Jack) until they are sitting very low where the transmission is clear of anything in its way coming off the engine.
4.18 Remove the last 17mm bolt that holds the transmission onto the engine.
4.19 Have your extra person ready.
· They will work the jack as you do the wiggling, wedging and clearance checking
4.20 Look for a place between the tranny and the engine that you can stick a screwdriver
4.21 Crack the seal w/ a screwdriver.
4.22 Now pull the tranny away from the engine wiggling it off the engine gently (don't let that rod be bending around or rest the weight on that center shaft!)
4.23 Now, using the jack slowly lower the transmission to the point where you can roll it out the driver side wheel well.

4.24 You are now looking at the torque converter mounted on the engine.
4.25 Go get some food and Pat yourself on the back.
4.26 Look at the bottom of the engine (Sort of from the passenger side) and you will see a black cover w/ 2 small bolts.
4.27 Remove the bolts and the cover.

4.28 While looking through this hole use your screwdriver to rotate the flywheel around on the teeth of the flywheel until you see a bolt.
4.29 Use the screwdriver as a wedge to prevent the flywheel from turning and remove the bolt.
4.30 Repeat for all four bolts.
4.31 Slide the torque converter off.
4.32 Now look at the flywheel and you will see 8 bolts in the center bolting it to the crankshaft.
4.33 Use your screwdriver wedge to break loose all the bolts.
4.34 Remove the bolts and your flywheel.
4.35 Remove the bolt that holds the tranny motor mount and remove it.
· The manual one is different.
4.36 Good job, you just ate so I would continue installing your new clutch setup.

5. Install clutch
Tools Needed:
· Torque wrench
· Hayes Manual
· Metric Socket Set
· Screwdriver
· Clutch aligning tool


5.1 Take your flywheel, line it up on the engine, and attach it in place of the old one.
5.2 Torque it to the specs in the Hayes Manual, using your screwdriver wedge.
5.3 Make sure the flywheel is VERY clean, no grease on it… if there is use 409 to clean it, and sand it with 180grit or more sandpaper. VERY IMPORTANT that it is clean
5.4 Put in your clutch aligning/centering tool in the engine hole.
5.5 Slide your clutch on over the tool.
5.6 Slide on the centering piece of the tool and get the clutch just right.
5.7 Put on the new pressure plate you have, make sure the clutch is centered and pressure plate lines up right, and bolt it all down, making sure you do it with a torque wrench as it is VERY important in there.
5.8 Remove the tool.
5.9 Now go get some sleep seeing you probably did most of this yourself and it took all day.


6. Install the Tranny
Tools Needed:
· Torque wrench
· Hayes Manual
· Metric Socket Set
· Screwdriver
· 1 hydraulic Jack
· 1 Nissan Factory Jack
· One extra person



Here Buddy, since I am selling my car... Good Luck to you..... Wrong thread to ask this kind of question.....

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/modules.ph...howpage&pid=30

StrangeMAX

hey CystumMax...what is the current mileage of thie car..i looked but couldnt see it...sry for my blindness

jkim

This car has 85698 Miles on it.

CystumMax

Thanks JKim,

Current Mileage is 86421. That's about 723 miles since DEC 9, 2006 when I last had a inspection and put my car for sale.

CystumMax

Bump...

StrangeMAX

available next week to check it out ?

CystumMax

yes call me in advance if you are going to come or if you can't make it. 917.952.0408.

ionblu_max96blk

iTrader: (4)

how much for just one of the sets of wheels(heck, i have a set of stockies here) and without the playstation?

CystumMax

Check your PM. Thanks.

CystumMax

Bump.... to the top...

CystumMax

Price Drop... Bump...

jkim

how much is the car now ?

StrangeMAX

was 7400
is 7000

its typed with red

.. he'll drop more :-P ..idk i'm just watchin it closely

KriZZeaM

NY is too far for me. i would love this car.

ineedamaxima

Hi there!

Just wondering if your up for selling the set of OEM 5 spokers seperately??

I have them on my car but the wheels came chromed and I hate chromed wheels!

Thanks!

Kevin

CystumMax

Check your PM. I can take pictures for you. You would have to check for the shipping and Handling cost. That's not included in that price I gave you. Thanks.

CystumMax

Pic of 15" wheels.

CystumMax

CystumMax

Car Sold. Please close this thread