Dropped 4th gen on ksports
Dropped 4th gen on ksports
Well, I'd suffered from wheel gap for long enough. Finally the ksports came in (took a month to ship). With a little...okay MAJOR help from 4DRSpeed , we got this thing dropped. I don't have a clue how much we dropped it, but there is a two finger gap up front and 2.5 finger gap in the rear.
Before


After (will update with better shots soon)
Before


After (will update with better shots soon)
I don't have a clue how it rides. I am taking it monday to get an alignment. The rear is lower than this shot actually shows. I'll try to get some better shots tomorrow. The current one is taken using my knee as a "tripod" so it's looking up into the fender well making it seem like the back is higher than it actually is. But, I doubt I'll go any lower in the back because I frequently have a backseat full of friends that are too cheap to drive themselves.
Woo what a night. Lookin good. Once I get my turd back out on the road, the Knoxville area needs to finally have a meet. It will probably never happen though lol. Once the alignment is all done it will handle awesome and look great 
I sent you a PM!
I sent you a PM!
still looks high to me. i don't see the point in buying coilovers (especially k-sports) to do a drop =/> 2". could have just bought springs and got higher quality.
what i'm really tryin to say is: SLAM THAT SUCKER!
what i'm really tryin to say is: SLAM THAT SUCKER!

I wasn't at home much today so when I got back I only one shot because it was getting dark. Basically I like to tease. I messed around with it a little tonight, but tomorrow I'll work on it before I take it to the alignment shop.
I took a brief drive up the driveway only to find out that it was really bouncy, so I made sure the preload was set only enough to keep the spring secure. And I set the softness 11 clicks away from full hard. I'll have to see if it makes a difference tomorrow.
Is one finger gap safe for my axles? I don't want to risk screwing things up.
I realized after reading through the ksport thread that you have to turn the entire thread body into the bottom mount (where it is bolted to the hub) in order to change the ride height. I think we were adjusting preload by just turning the lower spring perch collars, which is why the ride height didn't measure equally in the rear with the measuring tape. I'm going to readjust and lower the rear a tad more tomorrow before I take it into the shop. I've got to get rid of all that preload we created too, or it's going to feel extremely stiff. It's getting a lot easier to get in there and adjust things, after doing it a few times. And apparently it takes a couple days to get rid of the bounciness I experienced from the short trip up the driveway.
I'm up for a meet (especially if it involves Wasabi's). I was hoping to come to the autocross event on the 13th to watch. I might be able to get the girlfriend to tag along.
I realized after reading through the ksport thread that you have to turn the entire thread body into the bottom mount (where it is bolted to the hub) in order to change the ride height. I think we were adjusting preload by just turning the lower spring perch collars, which is why the ride height didn't measure equally in the rear with the measuring tape. I'm going to readjust and lower the rear a tad more tomorrow before I take it into the shop. I've got to get rid of all that preload we created too, or it's going to feel extremely stiff. It's getting a lot easier to get in there and adjust things, after doing it a few times. And apparently it takes a couple days to get rid of the bounciness I experienced from the short trip up the driveway.
I realized after reading through the ksport thread that you have to turn the entire thread body into the bottom mount (where it is bolted to the hub) in order to change the ride height. I think we were adjusting preload by just turning the lower spring perch collars, which is why the ride height didn't measure equally in the rear with the measuring tape. I'm going to readjust and lower the rear a tad more tomorrow before I take it into the shop. I've got to get rid of all that preload we created too, or it's going to feel extremely stiff. It's getting a lot easier to get in there and adjust things, after doing it a few times. And apparently it takes a couple days to get rid of the bounciness I experienced from the short trip up the driveway.
Okay. I lowered it all around this morning and took out all the preload. There is a finger gap all around. I also snapped some more shots. However, I forgot to take some tYte JDM crooked shots for everybody, so I might have to do that later. JK.
It only took around an hour to adjust everything. Would have been quicker if I had some decent tools, but whatever. (Andrew: I stole the jack back from my brother
)
Anyways, here ya go. Enjoy!



It only took around an hour to adjust everything. Would have been quicker if I had some decent tools, but whatever. (Andrew: I stole the jack back from my brother
)Anyways, here ya go. Enjoy!



yeah, nice wheels. b/c of them was one of the reasons i got mine. the 7 spokage, loose the flaps or paint em, w/ that drop kinda looks weird w/ em on. thats what i'm gonna do, still suffering from a chronic wheel gap too. saving for them coils
Last edited by SoMarvelus; Jul 7, 2008 at 10:48 AM.
wooooo she sitting low now
Good to hear everything got aligned and that they charged you less because camber plates made the job easier. (way to get the jack back too lol). Remember severe angles out of steep driveways, parking lot entrys and such. Your going to have lots of fun
.
.
Last edited by 4DRSpeed; Jul 7, 2008 at 11:31 AM.
Not anymore. It felt a lot better after getting the alignment. I could even heard the difference. Before it was wearing on the outside of the tread and was pretty loud.
Apparently I don't know my own strength though and cross threaded one of my lug nuts. The alignment shop tried to remove it but broke the stud. They replaced that. Now I have to find another lug nut.
Apparently I don't know my own strength though and cross threaded one of my lug nuts. The alignment shop tried to remove it but broke the stud. They replaced that. Now I have to find another lug nut.
Not anymore. It felt a lot better after getting the alignment. I could even heard the difference. Before it was wearing on the outside of the tread and was pretty loud.
Apparently I don't know my own strength though and cross threaded one of my lug nuts. The alignment shop tried to remove it but broke the stud. They replaced that. Now I have to find another lug nut.
Apparently I don't know my own strength though and cross threaded one of my lug nuts. The alignment shop tried to remove it but broke the stud. They replaced that. Now I have to find another lug nut.

I don't know how much I lowered it exactly but to give some sort of idea:

Dad seems to think that I'm going to tear my bumper off if I hit a curb. But I generally don't smash into curves.
So far the ride it pretty fun. I hit a bump and it bounces but settles quickly. I need to test it on some windy roads for fun.
When I took it in for the alignment they quoted $69. I got there and the guy was like "You didn't say it was lowered! It will probably cost more." I was just like 'you didn't ask
' But because of the camber plates they only charged me $65, and the estimated time of 1 hour and 15 minutes turned out to only take 45 minutes.
there you go buddy! now your rolling. a word of advice. sometime down the road, you prob will need to replace your axles b/c it adds A LOT OF STRESS on them due to the lowering.
i busted my pass cv boot and just ended up replacing the whole axle.
second, i scrape like crazy over speed bumps and hills. well... the only thing thats getting scraped the most are the 2 bolts for the y-pipe hanger. just start memorizing speed bumps, hills, elevation changes and what not.
third, ride quality is really, really harsh. thats how most coilovers are. again, memorize every pothole, crack, whatever near your area lol. hitting one of those things will feel like running your car into a brick wall.
fourth, these are kinda high maintanence. i auto-cross a lot and always check, re-tune before an event.
one time, the lower strut bolts came loose during one of my runs and completely threw my steering and of course my run off.
i busted my pass cv boot and just ended up replacing the whole axle.
second, i scrape like crazy over speed bumps and hills. well... the only thing thats getting scraped the most are the 2 bolts for the y-pipe hanger. just start memorizing speed bumps, hills, elevation changes and what not.
third, ride quality is really, really harsh. thats how most coilovers are. again, memorize every pothole, crack, whatever near your area lol. hitting one of those things will feel like running your car into a brick wall.
fourth, these are kinda high maintanence. i auto-cross a lot and always check, re-tune before an event.
one time, the lower strut bolts came loose during one of my runs and completely threw my steering and of course my run off.
Last edited by G4nismo; Jul 7, 2008 at 05:20 PM.

I wasn't at home much today so when I got back I only one shot because it was getting dark. Basically I like to tease. I messed around with it a little tonight, but tomorrow I'll work on it before I take it to the alignment shop.
I took a brief drive up the driveway only to find out that it was really bouncy, so I made sure the preload was set only enough to keep the spring secure. And I set the softness 11 clicks away from full hard. I'll have to see if it makes a difference tomorrow.
Is one finger gap safe for my axles? I don't want to risk screwing things up.




