Some new pics
Been a goooood while, so time for updates.
CF grill I had wrapped by TheArtist
And with the new badge that I had been sitting on for years. Its actually slightly tinted for a black chrome effect. Hard to tell by the pics though.
Ditched the old Z32 brake setup and did the Cobra BBK.
CF grill I had wrapped by TheArtist
And with the new badge that I had been sitting on for years. Its actually slightly tinted for a black chrome effect. Hard to tell by the pics though.
Ditched the old Z32 brake setup and did the Cobra BBK.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; Nov 23, 2011 at 04:30 PM.
Pioneer 5200BT
New radiator picked up in the GD
Stephen Max Cam adapters for the 3.5 cams
3.5 Rev Up cams with HR valve springs
HR Head bolts
New clutch setup to replace my Stage III Clutchnet, Fidanza insert and some Amsoil goodness!
New radiator picked up in the GD
Stephen Max Cam adapters for the 3.5 cams
3.5 Rev Up cams with HR valve springs
HR Head bolts
New clutch setup to replace my Stage III Clutchnet, Fidanza insert and some Amsoil goodness!
Old junk motor yanked out that I got ripped off on from an ORG member (spun bearing), with my original motor that had a blown head gasket and was torn down for the rebuild. The build was nothing extreme, all OEM parts minus the 3.5 parts listed previously and the 3.5 oil pump.
Didnt really get any pics ofthe tear down and reassembly but did get some of the cams installed.
Completed new power plant
Motor is in the car and Ive put 1400 miles on it. I had it tuned yesterday and the Panda is now making 400fwhp.
Waiting on the dyno files to be sent so I can post it.
Didnt really get any pics ofthe tear down and reassembly but did get some of the cams installed.
Completed new power plant
Motor is in the car and Ive put 1400 miles on it. I had it tuned yesterday and the Panda is now making 400fwhp.
Waiting on the dyno files to be sent so I can post it.
I wasnt too impressed with their result, I expected a bit more. They did help on the top end though but so did raising the rev limiter. Too bad the EU doesnt have a smooth transition passing the 6500 mark. You could feel, hear and see on the dyno graph the drop in power as it passes it. The tuner did his best to minimize it and made it to where its not real noticable by the ear and feel but the graph still showed it.
My RPM switch took a dump so I had to zip tie the MEVI open. Im curious if it operated correctly and gave me a bit better bottom end if it would have help the final numbers.
My RPM switch took a dump so I had to zip tie the MEVI open. Im curious if it operated correctly and gave me a bit better bottom end if it would have help the final numbers.
I wasnt too impressed with their result, I expected a bit more. They did help on the top end though but so did raising the rev limiter. Too bad the EU doesnt have a smooth transition passing the 6500 mark. You could feel, hear and see on the dyno graph the drop in power as it passes it. The tuner did his best to minimize it and made it to where its not real noticable by the ear and feel but the graph still showed it.
My RPM switch took a dump so I had to zip tie the MEVI open. Im curious if it operated correctly and gave me a bit better bottom end if it would have help the final numbers.
My RPM switch took a dump so I had to zip tie the MEVI open. Im curious if it operated correctly and gave me a bit better bottom end if it would have help the final numbers.
You'll get a little more low end grunt but nothing to significant, maybe enough to just be noticeable.
Anyways, nice build you have there 400fwhp is an impressive number and the car is absolutely sublime. Nicely done sir!
Very nice. Great power/mods. You need to come down to IFO San Antonio on December 11th. Are you doing your own work as far as the break, clutch, etc? Or is a shop doing it for you? I just did the same clutch and it feels great. Keep us updated.
Last edited by VQtHuRtY; Nov 25, 2011 at 08:25 PM.
Thank you!
Thanks!!
Haha, well this is what I was having done when you saw it on the flatbed.
Stock. I had considerd upgrading it but I was told wthe OEM gasket was fine, as long as I went with stronger headbolts.
I just may try and make it out, depends on my daughters soccer schedule.
I do most of my own work, however for the engine build I paid someone else to do that.
LOL. Why thank ya!
Thanks, your Alti looks pretty clean as well.
Yeah, everybody has that problem going past the 6500 mark.
You'll get a little more low end grunt but nothing to significant, maybe enough to just be noticeable.
Anyways, nice build you have there 400fwhp is an impressive number and the car is absolutely sublime. Nicely done sir!
You'll get a little more low end grunt but nothing to significant, maybe enough to just be noticeable.
Anyways, nice build you have there 400fwhp is an impressive number and the car is absolutely sublime. Nicely done sir!
Haha, well this is what I was having done when you saw it on the flatbed.
Stock. I had considerd upgrading it but I was told wthe OEM gasket was fine, as long as I went with stronger headbolts.
I do most of my own work, however for the engine build I paid someone else to do that.
LOL. Why thank ya!
Thanks, your Alti looks pretty clean as well.
Hey Bud!
Someone else just had Rev-ups installed too and he mentioned the need of doing this
Did you do any other modifications than the cam adapters?
Someone else just had Rev-ups installed too and he mentioned the need of doing this
I'm not entirely sure what Flava has, but if he has a 3.5L then he's fine.
From what I found when building the motor is the 3.5L oils the exhaust cam bearings differently because of the possible configuration of VTCs on the exhaust cam. 3.0L do not have a version with exhaust cam VTCs, at the time of manufacture anyway.
When you use the Rev-Up cams in a non-VTC motor, you are required to use intake cam bolts, the stock 3.0L exhaust ones do not reach the threads in the rev-up. This is discussed in the forum, I think in all motor forum. I think this part is common knowledge. If you notice due to the length of the intake cam bolts, it plugs up the oil galley in the otherwise hollow cam. With the intake bolt installed only the #1 cam bearing will be oiled. The other bearings will not.
So why does the intake cam bolt work on the intake cam? Well the intake cam on the 3.0L has two oil passages. On the #1 bearing and the #2 bearing. At the #2 bearing it is passed the intake cam bolt. So in this case all the bearings will be oiled.
I tested this thoroughly with brake cleaner. With the intake cam bolt installed and blowing brake cleaner in the #1 bearing it will not oil the others.
Why does it work on the 3.5L? Nissan designed the exhaust cam side as a mirror image of the intake cam side, oiling wise anyway. It also has a oiling point on the #2 bearing cap.
Why do the stock cams on a 3.0L work?
It has the shorter exhaust cam bolt, and it does not block the oil port on the #1 exhaust cam bearing.
You can see what I did on my motor to achieve this oiling; its that copper line on the front of the motor near the head (1 per head). I tapped into a oil feed galley and then drilled a hole into the #2 bearing like it was done at the factory for the intake. The only problem is that I had to cannibalize another VQ for intake cam #2 cam bearing caps to replace them on the exhaust cam side. Its not perfect but at least I know I can run them without the bearings failing on me.
Hope that explains it, any questions welcome...
From what I found when building the motor is the 3.5L oils the exhaust cam bearings differently because of the possible configuration of VTCs on the exhaust cam. 3.0L do not have a version with exhaust cam VTCs, at the time of manufacture anyway.
When you use the Rev-Up cams in a non-VTC motor, you are required to use intake cam bolts, the stock 3.0L exhaust ones do not reach the threads in the rev-up. This is discussed in the forum, I think in all motor forum. I think this part is common knowledge. If you notice due to the length of the intake cam bolts, it plugs up the oil galley in the otherwise hollow cam. With the intake bolt installed only the #1 cam bearing will be oiled. The other bearings will not.
So why does the intake cam bolt work on the intake cam? Well the intake cam on the 3.0L has two oil passages. On the #1 bearing and the #2 bearing. At the #2 bearing it is passed the intake cam bolt. So in this case all the bearings will be oiled.
I tested this thoroughly with brake cleaner. With the intake cam bolt installed and blowing brake cleaner in the #1 bearing it will not oil the others.
Why does it work on the 3.5L? Nissan designed the exhaust cam side as a mirror image of the intake cam side, oiling wise anyway. It also has a oiling point on the #2 bearing cap.
Why do the stock cams on a 3.0L work?
It has the shorter exhaust cam bolt, and it does not block the oil port on the #1 exhaust cam bearing.
You can see what I did on my motor to achieve this oiling; its that copper line on the front of the motor near the head (1 per head). I tapped into a oil feed galley and then drilled a hole into the #2 bearing like it was done at the factory for the intake. The only problem is that I had to cannibalize another VQ for intake cam #2 cam bearing caps to replace them on the exhaust cam side. Its not perfect but at least I know I can run them without the bearings failing on me.
Hope that explains it, any questions welcome...
Im a bit worried now, I will ask others who have these cams installed and see how their setup has been running.
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...ml#post8286052 is his thread where you can see the auxiliary line he added.
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
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nice work flava 
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...ml#post8286052 is his thread where you can see the auxiliary line he added.
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...ml#post8286052 is his thread where you can see the auxiliary line he added.
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
Would be great if you could find out and post the info up here!
However, after thinking about the bolts I used they werent the VQ30 intake bolts which are pretty long. I actually went to a specialty bolt store and purchased some grade 8 bolts that were just a half inch longer then the 3.5 exhaust cam bolts. They were basicly just long enough to bolt up so Im not sure if they blocked that oil passage way or not. I will just have to watch and listen to the setup and inspect my oil and see if anything shows up out of the ordinary.
Finally got some of the dyno graphs,
The tuner was able to close that gap a bit more, but he wasnt able to reduce how far it dropped when passing the redline. That dip in power really SUCKS!
Now my MEVI wasnt opening due to a faulty rpm switch, so here is a comparsion of a base pull when it was closed vs when it was ziptied open.
Low end torque and some power was really reduced with it zip tied open.
The tuner was able to close that gap a bit more, but he wasnt able to reduce how far it dropped when passing the redline. That dip in power really SUCKS!
Now my MEVI wasnt opening due to a faulty rpm switch, so here is a comparsion of a base pull when it was closed vs when it was ziptied open.
Low end torque and some power was really reduced with it zip tied open.
That dip does look pretty nasty. Do you have a log of your A/F when you pass the stock limiter? And wasn't there a point in time that you had a JWT ecu with an extended limiter? Or am I thinking of someone else...
Or so. I did have a jwt ecu but sold it when I got the EU which I now regret. The pull up and past 6k was so nice and smooth. If I can find one for a good price I'm gonna try and pick it up just for the rev limiter benefit.
that's a huge dip. can you take a screen of your EMU map? it seems to me that the rev intervals must be set up wrong, the dip shouldn't extend that far. it's like over 500rpm.
the problem with the bolts is, that the thread of the Revup cams is behind the oil hole, on regular cams the thread is before. so any bolt will plug it up. however a bolt with a oil passage might work.
like the red one
the problem with the bolts is, that the thread of the Revup cams is behind the oil hole, on regular cams the thread is before. so any bolt will plug it up. however a bolt with a oil passage might work.
like the red one
that's a huge dip. can you take a screen of your EMU map? it seems to me that the rev intervals must be set up wrong, the dip shouldn't extend that far. it's like over 500rpm.
the problem with the bolts is, that the thread of the Revup cams is behind the oil hole, on regular cams the thread is before. so any bolt will plug it up. however a bolt with a oil passage might work.
like the red one
the problem with the bolts is, that the thread of the Revup cams is behind the oil hole, on regular cams the thread is before. so any bolt will plug it up. however a bolt with a oil passage might work.
like the red one
I had considered it for a bit of time, but the car make plenty of power as it is.
The 3.5 engines have an additional oil feed at cam bearing 2
however, unfortunately our engines, the 3.0, doesn't have that feed.
This is a pic of rev up installed in a DE, the top circle has the feed. On the the bottom one, exhaust side, there should be one too. So one option is to drill into the block and provide additional feeds, or have a bolt with an oil channel.
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