Sound deadening, how many layers, how many rolls....
Sound deadening, how many layers, how many rolls....
gonna begin to sound deaden my car within the next few weeks. i guess i'll do all 4 doors, and the whole trunk, including trunk door, and back wall.
how many rolls or pieces (however you say it) of material will i need?
my current search is to find the right type of material...i rememember back in the day mcmaster was mentioned a lot, not sure if that's still the popular stuff, so any advise is welcome.
thanx guys,
how many rolls or pieces (however you say it) of material will i need?
my current search is to find the right type of material...i rememember back in the day mcmaster was mentioned a lot, not sure if that's still the popular stuff, so any advise is welcome.
thanx guys,
Re: Sound deadening, how many layers, how many rolls....
Originally posted by PoLo
gonna begin to sound deaden my car within the next few weeks. i guess i'll do all 4 doors, and the whole trunk, including trunk door, and back wall.
how many rolls or pieces (however you say it) of material will i need?
my current search is to find the right type of material...i rememember back in the day mcmaster was mentioned a lot, not sure if that's still the popular stuff, so any advise is welcome.
thanx guys,
gonna begin to sound deaden my car within the next few weeks. i guess i'll do all 4 doors, and the whole trunk, including trunk door, and back wall.
how many rolls or pieces (however you say it) of material will i need?
my current search is to find the right type of material...i rememember back in the day mcmaster was mentioned a lot, not sure if that's still the popular stuff, so any advise is welcome.
thanx guys,
i used rammat. it's basically the same stuff as dynamat extreme. i did 6 layers in the door, 2 layers in the trunk, 4 layers on the floor, and 4 layers on the ceiling. all the stuff on the ceiling melted and i had to remove it all, i just pulled my door panels out a few days ago redoing my sound system and it seems to be holding up pretty well.
Originally posted by mingo
i used rammat. it's basically the same stuff as dynamat extreme. i did 6 layers in the door, 2 layers in the trunk, 4 layers on the floor, and 4 layers on the ceiling. all the stuff on the ceiling melted and i had to remove it all, i just pulled my door panels out a few days ago redoing my sound system and it seems to be holding up pretty well.
i used rammat. it's basically the same stuff as dynamat extreme. i did 6 layers in the door, 2 layers in the trunk, 4 layers on the floor, and 4 layers on the ceiling. all the stuff on the ceiling melted and i had to remove it all, i just pulled my door panels out a few days ago redoing my sound system and it seems to be holding up pretty well.
I used this stuff from Home Depot (or Lowe's) that works exactly like dynamat. It has tar on one side and the aluminum foil looking stuff on the other. You can find it in the roofing section. It comes in a roll and is about 8 inches wide but long as crap. I used it in my trunk and my rear deck and it works awesome, plus it is cheap. I wish I could remember the exact name but I can't.
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Originally Posted by KiLLeR2002se
Well, i got a bulk pack of dynamat extreme which is 36 square feet, that was enough to do my trunk..
doors should be no more than 8 quare feet,
correct me if im wrong..
doors should be no more than 8 quare feet,
correct me if im wrong..
whats up, i have gone through the sound deadening process on my car and noticed a couple places that keep vibrating....make sure you pick up some of the sound dampening sprayfrom dynamat. it helps with those hard to reach places and works fairly well
I used edead v.1 you can get it at http://www.edesignaudio.com/category.php?type=damp
or on ebay. It works pretty good.
or on ebay. It works pretty good.
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Originally Posted by kinitaro
whats up, i have gone through the sound deadening process on my car and noticed a couple places that keep vibrating....make sure you pick up some of the sound dampening sprayfrom dynamat. it helps with those hard to reach places and works fairly well
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
sound dampening sprayfoam dynamat? where did you get that stuff from? dynamat makes it?
Well, personally I am going to be doing the entire interior this summer. I have 3 gallons of liquid deadener (Second Skin Spectrum v2) and 80 sqft of mat (Second Skin Damplifier). I am also going to be redoing he panels with a backing of acoustical foam....this should pretty much kill EVERYTHING. All in all, it's about 70lbs of material.
Killing road noise is not just slapping some mat on there, you need to look into this more...
Killing road noise is not just slapping some mat on there, you need to look into this more...
Originally Posted by UGAd13
I used this stuff from Home Depot (or Lowe's) that works exactly like dynamat. It has tar on one side and the aluminum foil looking stuff on the other. You can find it in the roofing section. It comes in a roll and is about 8 inches wide but long as crap. I used it in my trunk and my rear deck and it works awesome, plus it is cheap. I wish I could remember the exact name but I can't.
Greetings!
Based on my measurements (search for the write-up elsethere on the forum),
most noise comes from the rear wheels wells and from the trunk; the spectrum on this noise is mostly in between 70 to 200 Hz, thus making it hard to eradicate. The trank, however, is the easier and most beneficial area to start sound-proofing. In order of effectiveness, IMHO, I recommend:
- trunk;
- cabin floor;
- doors;
- roof/headliner; AND sunroom panel (the sliding panel under the glass).
- all plastic panels;
- hood;
- trunk hood.
On 5th generation, not much can be done on the metal roof itself, only on the healiner (unlike 4th gen)
Any place you apply the material need two layers; on the floor could use far more; i did 8 layers on my 4th and 4 on my 5th gen. Be wary of applying more than two layer of any materiol on any vertical surface and the roof; it will not hold after several hot days.
The doors have little effect on overall percieved level of noise: one needs keep in mind that our ears level with door's glass to which nothing can be doen. However, the door's panels, once soundproofed, have profound effect on the sound of your radio, for those who cares about listening in the car ( I don't).
One last suggestion: the thin tin panel under the sunroof should be applied with aluminum-baked material metal facing up. You wound not believe how much difference it makes reflecting sun on the summer.
You'd need about 100-120 sq. feet for the decent job
The vendor I prefer is www.b-quiet.com.
Just my 2c.
Eugene
Based on my measurements (search for the write-up elsethere on the forum),
most noise comes from the rear wheels wells and from the trunk; the spectrum on this noise is mostly in between 70 to 200 Hz, thus making it hard to eradicate. The trank, however, is the easier and most beneficial area to start sound-proofing. In order of effectiveness, IMHO, I recommend:
- trunk;
- cabin floor;
- doors;
- roof/headliner; AND sunroom panel (the sliding panel under the glass).
- all plastic panels;
- hood;
- trunk hood.
On 5th generation, not much can be done on the metal roof itself, only on the healiner (unlike 4th gen)
Any place you apply the material need two layers; on the floor could use far more; i did 8 layers on my 4th and 4 on my 5th gen. Be wary of applying more than two layer of any materiol on any vertical surface and the roof; it will not hold after several hot days.
The doors have little effect on overall percieved level of noise: one needs keep in mind that our ears level with door's glass to which nothing can be doen. However, the door's panels, once soundproofed, have profound effect on the sound of your radio, for those who cares about listening in the car ( I don't).
One last suggestion: the thin tin panel under the sunroof should be applied with aluminum-baked material metal facing up. You wound not believe how much difference it makes reflecting sun on the summer.
You'd need about 100-120 sq. feet for the decent job
The vendor I prefer is www.b-quiet.com.
Just my 2c.
Eugene
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Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Well, personally I am going to be doing the entire interior this summer. I have 3 gallons of liquid deadener (Second Skin Spectrum v2) and 80 sqft of mat (Second Skin Damplifier). I am also going to be redoing he panels with a backing of acoustical foam....this should pretty much kill EVERYTHING. All in all, it's about 70lbs of material.
Killing road noise is not just slapping some mat on there, you need to look into this more...
Killing road noise is not just slapping some mat on there, you need to look into this more...
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
want to give a us the info then?
Deadening can be achieved by applying an asphalt mat such as Damplifier which will effectivley add more weight to the peice thereby stopping the peice from rattling. This can further be achieve by adding additional layer of liquid deadener which will seal and gaps/overlays in the mat. This will also make a nice waterproof barrier. This should be applied to anywhere there is metal.
Now dampening serves to absorb any remaining soundwaves that happen to be bouncing around in the cabin. For this you can apply acoustical foam to the underside of plastic peices thereby absorbing the wave.
That is my approach, I am borrowing off of what I have seen in a Scion with the same approach. The cabin is nigh DEAD SILENT.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
sound dampening sprayfoam dynamat? where did you get that stuff from? dynamat makes it?
http://www.dynamat.com/spec_dynashield.htm
i got it for free so meh.....
I dont mind the road noise to much, I just dont want to hear my new exhaust so much in the car...
I expect most of the noise is coming from the trunk, has anyone just done the trunk and if so how did it handle the exhaust noise?
I expect most of the noise is coming from the trunk, has anyone just done the trunk and if so how did it handle the exhaust noise?
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