I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GLE,
Has about 222k miles on it.
When I turn on the car, the RPM is 700, but when the thumping noise happens, the the RPM jumps a little. If need be I'll upload a video.
Last week I added transmission fluid, but when I drove home the car started to make a thumping sound and when I accelerated it would bump. So when I got home ,I siphoned some of it out to lower the level. And then I changed my spark plugs. But the thumping/bumping sound and shake is still happening.
It's very noticeable when I'm in drive with my foot on the break(like at a light) or when I'm trying to accelerate.

 

I'm sure you would have said so already... but do you have a check engine light on?

Next question is going to be hard to phrase and even harder to interpret I think...

Does the problem feel "physical" like a loose part clunking into place, or does it seem more "electronic" as if there may be an intermittent short circuit?

Tough questions but this info may help diagnose.

 

No check engine light.
And Im not sure, because the car does thump and I can feel it. But it doesn't feel like a loose part clunking or making noise. So I'd say electronic.....also I DID NOT put in new ignition coil. The spark plugs changed, but not the coil

 

Any thumping noises? What happens if you press the gas pedal in neutral?

Thumping sounds more like motor mounts to me.

p.s. Only add fluids when needed - over filling can also cause problems.

 

sounds like a misfire from a bad coil to me

 

Hey i have a 2003 maxima gle and one of my lifters is starting to sound but u could barely hear it... You all think if i put oil stabilizear will it help... Am using 10w -30 castrol regular and i have 186000 miles thanks for the help

 

Misfire and bad motor mounts.

I'm curious, does transmission feel like it is slipping?

 

Nah bro it aint runs perfect

 

My question was directed at the OP.

Probably best for you to start your own thread. Confusion sets in when you hijack another thread, especially on a different topic.

 

Well be more specific next time stupid

 

 

 

Maybe radiator fans kicking in???

 

You must be talking to yourself...only idiots hijack threads with a completely separate topic.

 

Sorry for my late reply, I applied the emergency brake.
In park the rpm was roughly 1000, pretty smooth.
In rev, it dropped to about 700rpm,
In neutral it was the same as park, I pressed the gas and it revved pretty smooth.
In drive, the rpm dropped to about 700rpm, and it started doing the sound and I felt the shaking/skipping vibration.

 

I feel a hesitation when accelerating from idle. The car shakes some, the transmission slipped when I added to much trans fluid, but I took the extra out and it hasn't slipped since.
And sometime while driving it'll shake a little (randomly) and other times it'll go smooth

 

Someone said the same, when The spark plugs were changed I found out they were actually the wrong kind.
So I was thinking about getting a new coil,

 

I don't know, the most common things people tell me is the coil or spark plugs

 

ALSO I put in 87 fuel in my car

 

Sounds like a bad motor mount. If you aren't throwing any engine codes, usually you get engine codes for misfires, then inspect all motor mounts for damage, tearing of the rubber part of the mount.

 

Ok cool, any advice on that? Would I need to go to a shop? Or could it be done at home? I have a cousin who works on cars

 

+1!

I bet it's your motor mounts. You may want to replace all of them - I suspect your car probably still has the original mounts. There are plenty of threads on the subject, so just search. Also, read this note https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6O...1fNlF5QjQ/view - it discusses this issue and couple of others, all very relevant to your car.

 

They aren't terribly difficult to replace and as someone else suggested you may just want to replace all of them if you are on the original motor mounts. Since you have an auto there are 4 motor mounts. The mounts can be somewhat expensive if you go OEM.

However, take note, the motor mounts are electrical and some people have had issues with the electrical connections shorting due to IACV valve gasket leaking which can lead to the ECU shorting out. So...people opted to just disconnect the electrical connection (not completely necessary to have) or replace their electrical motor mounts with the non-electrical from a manual maxima (same year). They are interchangeable from what I understand.

You may want to do further research into that area. Personally, I have the same car and replaced my mounts with OEM about 100K miles ago. I currently have 287K on my maxima. I had also replaced my IACV valve and gasket about the same time as my motor mounts just to be sure. If motor mounts cr*p out on me again a this point I'll just replace with non-electrical and not throw anymore money at it than I have to.

Other people have bypassed the coolant line that runs through the IACV valve which is the root cause issue into the whole mess. Apparently, it has little or no ill effects when they have done this.

 

You can have a slight misfire that doesn't throw a code. I have this situation right now. The coil pack is on the way out but not completely dead.
Occasionally it will go completely out and you get the flashing check engine light (misfire) BUT then the coil will start functioning again and the code will clear itself.
I drove around with the scanner hooked up until I got a real misfire and checked pending codes before shutting the car off. Sure as **** - misfire on #4.
Don't rule out a dying coil pack.