Hi Guys...
I have 1993 Maxima SE.. It ran well till recently.. Now it showing ugly side to me...
I had this lifter noise(I guess) which was there during the start and went away after 3-4 minutes.. NOW the noise isn't going. It stays all the time...

I think lifter is busted... Can I run the car in this condition?
Did any of you had lifter failure or know the symptoms..?

And when I put the car in Drive I feel a slight vibration and there is the engine doesn't run smooth.. (there is a kind grrrrrr sound).
What the cause could be ?????
I check the injectors they are all 14 ohms..

Please advice me ....
Thanks

 

Well, if one of your lifters stopped working, then that valve isn't functioning properly. Whichever cylinder that may be, isn't working as efficiently as the other cylinders and that's why your engine vibrating.

Fix your lifter.

 

Hi guys,

Does any body know the cost to get the lifter fixed at dealer (0r better repair shop)?
Can I fix it my self?.. I am not very mechanically inclined...

Please some body reply....!!!
I don't want to mess up the engine because of this lifter noise...

Thanks
Vijaya sham

 

This sounds like the VTC's to me. Have you ruled them out?

 

yeah or broaken exhaust studs?

 

Yeah I alo thought the same in the beginning.

I did disconnect the VTC and then checked for the sound. It was still there. The exaust stud wont reduce the performance I guess.

Few months ago noise was there only for few minutes after start. Then it would disappear and the engine ran smooth.
But now the sound is there for most of the time but it is not as bad as exaust noise (if studs break)...

And there is loss of performance/power.. As Tom pointed out in previous post may be one cylinder is performing 100% becos of messed up lifter
The engine vibrates slightly...

Big question is should I go to the lousy dealer who rip my wallet or some other mechanic shop..?

I not really comfortable with other mechanic shop dealing with engine.. (that being the heart of my car) I don't mind them changing brakes,bearing etc...

Please let me know your expert opinion...!!!!

thanks

 

Call around first, the dealer as well as independent shops. Ask them what it would cost.

On the VE, I believe the cam has to be removed to access the lifter.

If the lifter noise is coming from the front bank of cylinders, you're lucky, because you won't have to remove the intake manifold to get to it. If it's from the back, then that's a little more involving.

 

My guess is also "VTC." Disconnecting the VTC solenoids never made the noise go away for me, however shorting the solenoid signal wire to ground did.

--SAM

 

2 of my cylinder isnt working to well (unplug coils and there will be no difference or very slight difference) did not check injectors yet so it might be a lifter. its the middle cylinder of both banks that isnt working. is there a way to check for lifters (maybe compression test)? gonna search on how to test the injectors.

 

My guess is your coils are cracked and in bad shape, and the sound you're hearing is the spark grounding out to the cylinder head instead of the spark plug. The would be accompanies by a rough engine and poor performance. Remove all your ignition coils and see if any are cracked. They're about $55 each from Courtesy I believe, and have been known to crack quite often at this age.

 

http://www.trinbagoauto.com/mark_engine_noises.asp

"It is very important to find the true cause of the failed lifter or failed bearing because their failure is almost always caused by something else."

http://www.remanufactured.com/Engine...gnosis_101.htm

"Valve train noises generally are loudest up to 1500 rpms. Lifters are also misdiagnosed commonly as the source of many noises when in reality they are quite trouble free, sorta. Dirt contamination on a sludged engine is the number one cause of true lifter noises, low oil pressure is number two, . Whatever you do, don't put engine flush in a sludged engine! We call it "Instant rod knock" because of the way it overloads the oil filter to the point of opening the filter bypass valve, flooding and destroying the engine bearings with mud. ..."

--SAM

 

Hi SAM,
Thanks for the valuable info...
I checked with the dealer for approximate quote for replacing a lifter.. The price is very high He is quoting $1500.. Of course this quote is over the phone with out any inspection..
Now I looked the links you placed in your post..
It says only way to get rid of sludge is more frequent oil changes..

Isn't it too late if I am hearing the lifter sound all the time?

Does any one have any experience or opinion on this engine sludge and to get rid of it by more oil changes..?

Another related question will it help to change to synthetic oil at this point of time...

Please help me with answers...

 

Did you check your coils like I said up above? Don't always assume the worst case scenario.

 

This is a Toyota website, but check it out anyway.

www.yotarepair.com/Sludge_Zone.html

The guy that runs the site has really good insight on engine sludge, which plagues many late model Toyota's to this day. I know you dont have a Toyota, but it will offer some good reading material on your concern.

I agree with a previous poster, dont always assume the worst case scenario. Take it one step at a time, starting with the cheapest fix.

 

maximalover--

First, as others have cautioned, don't assume the worse. Next, it's most likely that what is wrong with your car is a *common* Maxima problem rather than an unusual one. So it would be worth your while to rule out some of these common problems like VTC or cracked coils before concluding it's a bad lifter.

Now, if it really is a stuck or lazy lifter, perhaps caused by a sludged engine, there is hope. (Disclaimer: Your results may vary.)

When I was 14 years old, a mechanic neighbor who owned his own shop turned me on to a product called Marvel Mystery Oil that I now swear by. It's widely available at most auto parts stores. It's essentially a top-end lubricant that can be added to the crankcase oil and/or gasoline. It's used in aviation and other industrial applications.

By adding it to the crankcase oil, I have used it to successfully cure stuck and lazy lifters and de-sludged old engines. By adding it to the gasoline, I was also able to cure a fuel pump that kept blowing fuses. Add several ounces, per the product's instructions, to the crankcase and after about 200 miles change the oil and filter. (Don't overfill the crankcase.) If the problem is still there, repeat. Then, get into the habit of adding some ahead of any planned oil changes.

"Marvel Mystery Oil top cylinder lubricant gas and oil additive. A light-bodied friction reducing, wear-resistant, heat-resisting additive which produces no carbon or gum but a lubricating residue in combustion motors. Prevents sticky hydraulic valve lifters and counteracts harmful combustion residues. Mystery Oil combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings and upper cylinder walls and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear to a minimum. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating need of frequent adjustments. Mystery Oil retards formation of power-dissipating motor deposits. Can be added to diesel fuels, crankcase oils, gasoline, as it protects every part against wearing!"

--SAM