Ok this post will be sort of long, but I've been doing a lot of research while saving up for the Stillen SC and need I lots of tips and advice from those of you that have one, especially those of you that are auto. Ok, I've been reading about getting the vb mod before hand, though I am planning on doing the 5-spd conversion later down the road so I'm willing to wait until my auto tranny fails and so far with 123K miles and the tranny cooler installed at 60K having no problems at all doing extensive draining and refilling every 12K miles, is it still recommended to have the SC installed without the vb? I will of course drive responsibly. Ok, I've been hearing and reading about melting SC pulleys, is there a solution yet to this? I've read about someone selling aluminum pulleys now. From searching, I've read that its best to just get one before doing the install, true? If so, where can I find one and relatively the best price? Ok, I'm not planning on running a lot of boost, just want the regular pulley size, nothing smaller until I'm ready for it later. Read about Perma-cool oil coolers, needed or not? I'm planning on getting one anyway but need to know which model is preferred and where to get that cheap. Blow-Off Valves, seen lots of people getting the Blitz one, is there a reason for this particular one? Why not Greddy, HKS, TurboXS, Vortech, etc.? Is there a difference in sound and performance with others on a SC than the Blitz one? Ok, looks like the install could be done as long as I have the right tools, paperwork, web links, helping hand, etc. I've done all the installs on my car without problems. Anyone recommend not doing the install on the auto? Ok Oil, I've been pretty **** about changing my oil every 3K miles on the dot using Valvoline High Mileage Formula since 60K miles along with the Matching Auto Tranny Fluid every 12K miles. Is it recommended to go synthetic such as Mobil 1 after the SC install? Gauges, is it truly necessary to have them? Which gauges, boost, oil temp? What else is there to think of? And finally, where is the cheapest and most reliable place to order the Stillen SC V2? I've read that southwestautoworks.com has it for about $3450, is there anywhere a little bit cheaper? As of right now, I've done all the maintenance work of replacing sensors and such and have no other ideas for what to really save up for since I have almost all the bolt-ons other than the ecu, vb, and vi. So to all of you that read my long post of questions, I hope some of you reply with help. Thanks.

-Ben

 

See also:

http://www.custommaxima.com/Turbo.htm

Allegedly more power & 1 important word: "tunability" (without swapping pulleys).

-Not that there's anything at all wrong w/ supes. . .I believe extra air is good, no matter where it comes from. -But it's your $.



-KWheelzSB-

 

Yea, I looked at it, but I truly haven't heard any reviews on it. I did read something about they only have the turbo kits for the 5-spds, not sure if that makes a difference. Of course the turbo would be more powerful, but then that would wear my engine and tranny much more quicker than a proven Stillen SC, no? If they tend to not show any problems in the long run, then hey, I might just trade the SC in for the turbo and some lucky Max owner will get a deal on the used SC.

 

Definitely appreciate your point of view. I tend to make "major purchases" on items which have some sort of track record as well, but initially, I like the sound of what I'm hearing about this turbo kit.

Whatever u decide - more power to ya! (literally!)

 

That's a very good point. While it's true that the Turbo has greater potential, it doesn't matter that much if you're running on stock internals. You can surpass the limits of the stock internals with both the SC and the turbo.

Now, if you're planning on building your engine, that's a different story altogether.

As for "tunability", is that really a good thing for the average person? I think the SC will keep selling because it's plug'n'play. I've heard that the turbos setups are pretty hard to tune properly. I may be (hope I'm) wrong.

PS - Are you Benny Blanco from the Bronx?

-Sryth...
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
'98 SE 5spd, Pebble Beige, PRCAI, Stillen Y, Stillen FSTB, ACT clutch.
Pacesetter STS to be installed this week!

 

Thanks for the quick replies. I think I'm still planning on going with the Stillen Sc since it is just plug & play and proven. A turbo would be nice, I doubt I would go all out on tuning to get more boost, just an average driver that would like to have some kind of boost under the hood. As for my name, BenBlanco218 is just my org handle, my real name is Ben Cosca and I'm from MD.

 

I figured as much. Benny Blanco from the Bronx was John Leguizamo's character in the movie Carlito's Way.

-Sryth...
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
'98 SE 5spd, Pebble Beige, PRCAI, Stillen Y, Stillen FSTB, ACT clutch.
Pacesetter STS to be installed this week!

 

Ben,

First off, You don't NEED the VB Mod, if your planning on converting at some point then you can just let your tranny go now, although the VB mod supposedly provides for crisper shifting, etc.

You can definitely do the install on your own, and in all honesty I would recommend you do that. At the same time, get the Aluminum Pulleys, you can check with DanNY here on the org, he was machining them for a while, and ASP Racing out of Texas also makes them for the V2 guys. I think It will prolly run you about 200 for the 2 pulley set.

Oil Cooler... Get it, I don't think you will regret it, even when I had mine while I was still NA it felt good, the motor felt stronger and more responsive, remember your looking to make this motor run as long as possible, not like the tranny where you are eventually planning to convert.

Go with the 3.33 pulley, it will not require an FMU upgrade and your car may actually be tuned out better because of it. Buy it from Vortech. Do it ahead of time... Trust me, after spending about 4k on the SC install with the 3.6 you may regret it... just buy the 3.33 or 3.25 and have it. (Although your tranny life may decrease as a result)

The reason for the overwhelming selection of the Blitz is that is what Stillen recommends and sells, and what also bolts to the flange on the X-Over pipe. Other BOV's like the HKS SSQ that I had required a different flange be welded on the pipe.

I would definitely go to a synthetic oil, but if your happy with what you have, then keep it.

Guages IMHO are a must. The 3 I would say you absolutely need is Boost, Fuel Pressure, and EGT.. Do not underestimate the importance of the Guages, they have been invaluable in troubleshooting.

Where to buy? Try Avalon Racing, for a price comparison, when buying it new I don't think you will find a huge price variation amongst the Org's Stillen re-sellers.

Go for the boost if you want it, go with the smaller pulley, you will regret it if you don't, definitely get guages, maybe start buying them ahead of time? But most importantly... Do the install yourself. It sounds like a biotch, but you will be glad you did when troubleshooting time comes. Ask Ptatohead, and any of the other self installers out there, it is an invaluable experience.

Best of luck,
Del

 

God damn.. did you type all that ****? damn

 

, I dont think Dan is making any more alloy pullies. He was a bit upset at the interest of the SCed V2 max owners. You can still PM him and ask to see if he still makes them. Those are about $198 shipped and the ASP metal pullies are $135 for both shipped. Both good set of pullies.

 

Yeah, I tried to sound knowledgable... think I passed?

 

i don't think you have to try.. its natural

 

Ok now that's the reply I was looking for. Thanks for covering the pulley info and install encouragement. I do have a link of Ptatohead's useful write-up. I am leaning towards getting the oil cooler, just not sure which specific model doesn mostly everyone use. Also read debates over if it was really needed for those who are still n/a. If people weren't talking about oil viscosity issues when still n/a then I would go ahead and have the oil cooler installed while still saving up for the SC. When I think about it, I will start piecing together little stuff, such as the gauges and the pulley. So I can go as small as 3.33 without a FMU upgrade? What about the 3.25? Though I did drive a Max with the VB and it did surprise me with the quick shifts, but I think if I'm truly thinking about converting, so I'm going to not get the vb. As for the oil, I'm leaning towards switching to synthetic, just still nto moved about paying $5 a quart compared to my $2 quarts every 3K miles which comes pretty quick since my car is a daily driver to work and school. I saw that avalon has the SC for $3400 even, looks like the lowest price I could find. Ok, the blitz looks like the one to go with, though isn't that the HKS one in SprintMax's sig? Well, thanks for taking the time to write up your reply, it helps me a lot.

-Ben

 

Which set do you have?

 

You will be able to go as low as 3.25 on the stock FMU disc IMHO. As far as the BOV, the one in Sprint's sig is a Greddy, and it too bolts to the Flange on the Crossover pipe. It's all a matter of what you like. If you want to keep your conventional oil, go for it, I am sure that if you continue to be religious about your oil change intervals 3k on Conventional oil will be fine, even under boost. Bill99GXE is the oil guru, you may want to hit him on PM for his honest opinion. As far as the oil cooler, I just went ahead and got the Stillen kit, kinda pricey, but it was a true bolt on, no real rigging involved. Others have gone different routes, unto each his own. If I had it to do over I am not sure what I would do, but I would definitely install an oil cooler, even if I were to stay N/A, I would get it again. That is how much of a difference I noticed.

 

the Greddy leaks

 

I have both sets! I currently have the metal ones on SCer. After a problem that had gone away and came back I had to go w/metal pullies again. But then I ran into another problem which I just fixed so I have a spare set of pullies lounging around. I am going to sell the spare set. But like many people say dont fix it if is not broken , so thats basically what I did. I like both the alloy ones and the metal pulleys. What I really like about the metal ASP pulleys is that you can go to your local NAPA and pick up the bearings if they ever go bad.

 

Thanks for one of the most informative posts I've ever read.
Does anyone happen to know the part numbers, prices and recommended vendors for the Boost/FP/EGT Gauges, gauge pods and the Blitz BOV?

 

www.summitracing.com

ATM-5701 (20psi boost gauge - phantom series), ATM-5712 (fuel pressure gauge - phantom series), ATM-5766 (EGT gauge - phantom ..)

ATM-20802 (dual gauge pod - maxima), ATM-20803 (single gauge pod - maxima)

 

3.33" pulley setup:
Everything that comes in the stock Stillen kit will work. DO NOT FORGET to shim down the SC bracket so your belts won't rub.

3.25" pulley setup:
You're pushing it with stock FMU but will work. Recommened is the 8:1 FMU disk. You WILL need new belts. 3.25 to 3.125 require Gates belt# K060705.
Blitz BOV is better IMHO, for anything smaller than 3.33 pulley. The stock BOSCH bypass valve may not hold the extra boost.

Idler Pulley Issue:
The new Stillen V2 kits come with Polyurethane idler pulley. Myself and a couple others I know have had it for a few months now & *touch wood* no melting problems.

Oil Cooler Kit:
The cheapest & best alternative is the Permacool Oil Cooler kit.
Part# 10189 at: http://www.permacool.com/Catalog/Cat_page07.html. That is the one I have. Your oil capacity will increase by half a quart, so make sure you add that. And use synthetic, Mobil 1.

 

 

sorry for the double post but i couldn't edit it.
Does anyone have a picture of the shimmed bracket?
Please?i am taking her off tonight and would like to see if i can do anything before i throw her
back on.got a trip to boston coming up...DEDHAM to be exact...party

 

I'm reloaded. Ok? Come on in here, you mother****ers! Come on, I'm waiting for you... What, you ain't comin' in?? Ok, I'm comin' out!... Oh, you're up against it now, mother****ers. I'm gonna blow your ****in' brains out!... You think you're big time??... You gonna ****in' die big time!... You ready??... Here come the pain!!

2nd best movie ever made! After Scarface that is!

 

Yea, great movie, I chose the screenname just because he was the one who wiped Carlito out. Anyway, this post is getting more and more useful to me and I have raised a few questions. Is it possible to run a G-Force ECU or JWT ECU with the SC? Is it possible to run a ECU upgrade with 96 ECU in a 97 without any problems such as the check engine light constantly staying on? So the new V2 kits come with a polyurethane idler pulley? Hmm, I don't know, by the time I place my order before the end of the year, I want to be assured that the polyurethane pulley won't melt since its hard to get the aluminum pulley. What do you guys think?

 

Yes, you can run G-Force ECU, but NOT the JWT ECU.
JWT is for 95-96 & works kinda, sorta okay at the very best on 97+ Maxima.

The polyurethane compound is the similar to the stuff Stillen uses to make body kits. They take a beating & don't break/crack.

If you want added security, get the aluminum idler pulley.

 

Ok, ECU is out of the question then. I received an email from Alex at southwestautoworks about Stillen completing the idler pulley problem so according to Stillen, everything should be perfect now. Right now I'm shopping for gauges for the pillar. I already know its for monitoring, but I need help finding the right style and lighting to match my gauge cluster. I've been looking at the Apexi EL gauges but I'm debating between white face or black faces. From looking at my sig pic what do you guys think the best gauges match up? I was think if I could find regular white face gauges with a 12v bulb inside I can switch the bulb out with a blue led just like I did the rest of my interior leds.Anyone know the right one if I choose to take that route? Thanks.

-Ben

 

That is exactly what I have done. At the VERY MINIMUM, you need the following gauges:
EGT
Fuel Pressure
Boost
Air/fuel --> Optional.
I have the Autometer Phantom gauges that have changeable bulb covers.
Get whatever color you like. Here's how they're hooked up:

 

That looks really good. I may have seen those gauges somewhere else before no another Max, maybe they're more popular than I know. So how do they light up? Numbers only, or the whole gauge?

 

Quick Question when you (or any-1 who knows) has a sec:

I notice w/ the Permacool kit you specified, the installation causes the oil filter to be moved outboard (farther from the centerline of the car) than OEM by the length of the screw-on inlet/outlet adapter.

Did you have any clearance problems with the OEM plastic guard that protects the oil-filter from road hazards in the wheelwell?

Were you able to leave it in place, or did you have to remove it? (I like the simple install of this kit, but I'm concerned about exposing the oil filter to road-hazards if the guard has to be removed - btw, I'm talking about the small vertical panel, not the wheel-well liner).

Also, roughly how much should one pay for the part # you're using?

TIA.

 

No clearance problems whatsoever. I use a bigger oil filter now and not the OEM one.

I paid just shy of $100 shipped from http://www.jegs.com

 

THANKS!

Sheeeesh yer fast!

refresh, refresh, refresh, refresh. . .

 

Just remember that Stillen has given the blower only a one year warranty.

Famous words I found in the Org..."You gotta pay to play!"

 

No, that is not true dashing. You can not run any ECU modification with an SC. Very, very bad.

 

Ben, although Del did an A+ job at answering your questions, I'll put in my 1/2 cent for what it's worth:

- First of all, it sounds like you are really doing your homework. That's good. You are asking very good questions.

- Don't worry about the VB mod. I'm not entirely convinced it is even needed but if you plan a conversion, then you can certainly skip it for now.

- About the melting pulleys. I have read about it and, like you, have gotten scared. However, I have had absolutely no problems. Perhaps it's only when you decrease your SC pulley? I did talk to Adam at Stillen about it when I was doing my homework. He told me that they had just redisigned them and the problem is now fixed. So I am pretty sure that you'll be fine. If you are not comfortable with that, then spend the extra money. You'll have to decide. I've told myself I will wait for them to actually melt before I spend $75 x 2. And yes, you'd want to do it ahead of time as it is not easy to later change them. As for where to get them, I can't help you. In fact, if you find out please tell me.

- As for your wanting the stock 3.6" pulley, I kind of second Del on this, you might want to consider a smaller one. It's a chunk of time to do it later and I promise you will want one eventually. I stuck with the stock pulley but regret it. I don't want to burst your bubble but the SC isn't really all that fast. You certainly notice it and it is fun and I'd never go back - but it isn't exactly seat-pinning. However, keep in mind the smaller pulley will void your warranty. And if you need to shave your charger for the smaller pulley, they will know. Tough decision, I know.

- I honestly don't see the need to an oil cooler. But don't listen to me, I'm sure Del knows what he's talking about.

- As for blow-off valves. I know some people will disagree but I really don't think they play that big a roll for SCed cars. Unless, you have a turbo, you're buying more for the look and sound. If I did get one, I'd probably stick with the Blitz which bolts right on. Remember, you don't need to decide before you buy the SC. The SC comes with a sutable Bosch unit and it is very easy to change at any time. If your homework gets overwelming (or if money is tight), put this one off.

- Yes you can instal it yourself! And if you need any help at all, just ask. I'll do whatever I can to help - from 2,000+ miles away - lol. Phone support, e-mail pictures, I can send you the .doc of my write-up since the cardomain is not so easy to read, etc., etc.

- SC or no SC, I would go synthetic, yes.

- Guages. I need to do homework on this myself! I still have not bought any.

- Try Avalon. I paid $3250 I think. You'll have to negotiate with Paul, he won't give you a great deal if you just ask the price. Use the 'my friend bought one from you for...'. That's what I did.

- Good luck Ben!

 

Josh amigo, a good gauge to go with would be the Apexi EGT gauge. It dont have to be Apexi but thats a important one to have and a boost gauge to monitor any boost leaks. Just my .02 cents. Hope that helps. EGT monitors the heat so it will let you know to let off the gas and very useful for tunning the vehicle as you just posted you may go with a smaller pulley in the future.

 

Well, I'm loving all the replies I'm getting on this thread, its basically the most useful thread I have started. Every other thread I would get the Newbie treatment, "Search!". Right now I would like to go with the 3.33 pulley and I'll go ahead and take Stillen's word for the new pulley they made. That Avalon price is really good to know about, hopefully I could talk him down from the $3450 southwestautoworks is selling it for. The blow-off valve will be purchased sometime after the first drive with the SC. I think I actually am going for looks and sound when I think about the BOV. I'm still debating on the oil cooler, since I've been hearing mixed reviews about it, especially when people are saying things about viscosity issues, like its bad when the oil isn't reaching a certain temperature? I am going to attempt the install with the help of the cardomain pages, thanks. The vb mod is also out of the question since I'm planning to do the conversion later. Right now, I'm still thinking of what brand gauges to get though I know I'm getting the 3 listed above. Thanks again to all of you guys for the support. I'll be back again on this thread when another question pops into my head.

-Ben

 

Looks like PermaCool sells an inline oil thermostat to deal with this issue. (See the Permacool website linked earlier in the thread)

-Should only be an issue for vehicles running in winter or cooler, seasonal climates, I would guess. Those in warm locales should be fine without it.

 

Ok, starting this week, I'm going to place orders for the following items before hand to make the SC install a little easier, so they say. Please let me know if everything is correct.

SC 3.33" Pulley
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...Code=2A036-333

3.33" SC Pulley Belt
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...5&prmenbr=5806

Gauge Pods
http://store.summitracing.com/search...earchtype=both

Autometer Phantom Boost Gauge
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=23979

Autometer Phantom Fuel Pressure Gauge
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=14439

Autometer Phantom EGT Gauge
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=27671

Blitz Blow-Off Valve
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=25203

I think the BOV will be purchased after the SC install. That EGT gauge is pretty pricey also compared to everything else on the list. I would like to get it, but is it truly needed before I install the SC? This will allow me to think if I should get just the dual gauge pod and then get the single later. Also, when I'm driving, what should I look out for from the 3 above gauges, like what should they never indicate? Anyway, there's my list, please tell me if everything sounds right. I assumed the 3.33" pulley was 6-rib since the belt number says 6-rib. Any advice or cheaper vendors I should know of? Thanks.

-Ben

 

Hey Ben, When you get the supercharger you wont hear a word from me LOL I wish you best of luck with the install!

 

Hey, I got a still pretty new Blitz BOV for sale. It's from a friend of mine, only used for one week. Only asking $180 shipped.