Stillen Rear Sway Bar
I installed one today along with a Stillen FSTB. I took a few turns hard and I got MAJOR oversteer. The oversteer that's kind of dangerous. When adjusting it, should I move it back or forward to create more/less oversteer?
Thanks
Thanks
Ha!
That doesn't surprise me in the least. With the STB, the Maxima, in otherwise stock form, with decent tires, is a fairly neutral handler. You can throttle steer at the limit. On dry, cornering very hard at the limit at about 60-65 mph in 3rd, if I let off the gas abruptly, the entire car sort of rotates as the front bites down. It's idiot proof. But your rear anti-roll bar upsets this factory-tuned balance, such that you're experiencing oversteer, even on dry, I bet. I've experienced oversteer on wet before, lift-throttle - scary stuff. If you want to lesson the oversteer, do whatever you have to do in order for it to simulate a thinner bar. The less the rear is allowed to roll in a corner (thicker bar), the less compliance the inside rear will have with the road during hard cornering (it will want to lift, as opposed to following the contours of the road), as it's trying to keep some of the weight on its side. The outside, similarly, is trying to keep weight transfer from happening. If you want the rear to bite, you'll need more weight transfer...That will be a bit dangerous in wet weather...You might want to try decreasing rear camber (that is, making it more negative) to counter-act the effects of a thicker anti-roll bar. This should give the car "tight" handling characteristics, without any dangerous oversteer.
I mean its cool cause we got my friends vid cam and we got some of the japanese drift style sylvia stlye racing going on in my Maxima =P
But at the limit the handling isn't predictable and I can't hold a turn as fast because it always throws my a$$ out there and I gotta replant the car and with a FWD car you can't use power to do that, only steering so the re-entry is a jolt to the right then the left while the back end grabs the ground.
But at the limit the handling isn't predictable and I can't hold a turn as fast because it always throws my a$$ out there and I gotta replant the car and with a FWD car you can't use power to do that, only steering so the re-entry is a jolt to the right then the left while the back end grabs the ground.
yeah...
"stop at springs to avoid oversteer"
This is good advice.
"I mean its cool cause we got my friends vid cam and we got some of the japanese drift style sylvia stlye racing going on in my Maxima =P"
That sounds really fun - anything you can let us all see?
"with a FWD car you can't use power to do that, only steering"
Actually, that's not entirely true. You should be able to get on the gas and replant the rear. Next time you're oversteering, as long as the engine is up around 4 grand, try mashing the gas. You might be surprised. Your first reaction is going to be let off the gas and possibly brake - don't do this! That is exactly how you would trigger oversteer. Instead, stay calm (smooth, even inputs), mash the gas and countersteer gradually (unless it just flew out, in which case whip the wheel....). Depending on your setup (5-speed would be ideal), you might develop skills to do controlled tail-out. Fun indeed.
This is good advice.
"I mean its cool cause we got my friends vid cam and we got some of the japanese drift style sylvia stlye racing going on in my Maxima =P"
That sounds really fun - anything you can let us all see?
"with a FWD car you can't use power to do that, only steering"
Actually, that's not entirely true. You should be able to get on the gas and replant the rear. Next time you're oversteering, as long as the engine is up around 4 grand, try mashing the gas. You might be surprised. Your first reaction is going to be let off the gas and possibly brake - don't do this! That is exactly how you would trigger oversteer. Instead, stay calm (smooth, even inputs), mash the gas and countersteer gradually (unless it just flew out, in which case whip the wheel....). Depending on your setup (5-speed would be ideal), you might develop skills to do controlled tail-out. Fun indeed.
Need an answer
Looks like no one answered his original question. Does
he move the bar forward or backward for less oversteer?
PM
P.S. My RSB is 1"inch behind the rear axle and have
no trouble oversteering, but then again, I have
the Goodyear RSAs.
he move the bar forward or backward for less oversteer?
PM
P.S. My RSB is 1"inch behind the rear axle and have
no trouble oversteering, but then again, I have
the Goodyear RSAs.
How is the bar linked?
I need to understand how it's linked to tell you which way to move it. If it is like a U that is connected at the strut area and goes directly back then across and up to the other strut, I'd move it backward for less oversteer. That will increase the lever-arm and decrease torsional rigidity. It'll make the bar less-stiff...Can anybody back me up here?
Re: How is the bar linked?
Originally posted by kevm14
I need to understand how it's linked to tell you which way to move it. If it is like a U that is connected at the strut area and goes directly back then across and up to the other strut, I'd move it backward for less oversteer. That will increase the lever-arm and decrease torsional rigidity. It'll make the bar less-stiff...Can anybody back me up here?
I need to understand how it's linked to tell you which way to move it. If it is like a U that is connected at the strut area and goes directly back then across and up to the other strut, I'd move it backward for less oversteer. That will increase the lever-arm and decrease torsional rigidity. It'll make the bar less-stiff...Can anybody back me up here?
move it backwards
I've also got a stillen sway, and you move it back for less oversteer. Forward for stiffer, backward for looser. I've got mine set to around 1.5 inches behind the center of the rear trailing bar. I do notice it's way easier to introduce oversteer now than it was before. Just get use to the way your car handles, and how to react if it comes out on you and you should be fine.
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