lately i've noticed a light, high frequency judder coming thru the steering wheel when i brake from higher speeds, usually coming down offramps. is this indicative of warping rotors? i'm at 78k miles now so i'm not complaining, actually i've been fairly immune from a lot of our common problems.
if i do have warped rotors, i'll prolly get cross drilled replacements. but do i need to get all four, or is it primarily the front brakes that exhibit this problem?

 

I have the same problem but i'm at 35k miles, and yes it is caused by warped rotors.

 

I'd say more than likely, but at 78K, you're lucky. I just read the TSB (NTB00-088a IIRC) yesterday cause I'm going to appeal the $120 brake job I paid just before the TSB came out on May this year.

Anyway, it can happen to the rears, but is not as common.

 

that's the way i look at it

one thing that's odd tho, is that this only happens when braking from higher speeds. on city streets at around 30-40 i don't feel it.

 

It will get worse. That's how mine started. There was a "window", that if I braked lighter or heavier than that, I wouln't feel the shimmy. But as the rotors gat worse, the "window" expanded...

 

It's most likely brake judder, and it will get worse. In time, it will be scary to brake from high speeds, and you'll feel the pulsing it at slower speeds too.

 

I'm having the same exact problem with my 2001. My car only has 15k miles on it and I think that the rotors are severely warped. I'm going to bring the car to the dealer's service station and get them to replace the rotors under warranty, but I want to bring in the TSB with me just in case they give me any problems. So if someone could e-mail or PM with where I could find it, that would be awesome.

 

Taking my AE in on 12/2 for that very problem. Right now at about 30K miles.

 

What did your dealer say when you notified them you were having this problem? And is going to be replaced under your warranty?

 

At 29K mile took it in for my 2001 AE. Dealer machined the rotors, but to my understanding said there was "plenty of life" left in the brake pads. That's kind of OK, since I'm thinking of replacing the pads myself anyway.

See, from everything I've read on the org, this issue WILL come back, even after you've had the TSB done. For some people it came back after only 5000 miles.

In another thread on this a while back someone said that when they switched their brake pads to PF carbon metallic pads after their last machine rotor job, that the warping has not come back.

I'm thinking of doing that.

 

Dude, if its not gonna break your bank.. change all 4 rotors and pads. I changed my warped and couldnt stop rotors to the ones from SW Auto but didnt change the pads and rears. Now, the same problem is back so I will try changing the pads and the rear rotors.

 

yeah, i agree. i'll prolly end up getting all four from eatricezone.com unless someone can point me elsewhere. i've got the axxis pads already, just haven't put em on yet.

now i have to find 375 somewhere is the rotor change something i can do myself? i know i shouldn't screw around with brakes. but i'm not a total idiot with tools and i figure since i'll just have to unbolt and lift the calipers off without actually messing with the mechanism, it may be possible to replace the rotors without killing myself. if this is viable, i just need to know the recommended torque for the bolts.

 

I'm planning on getting the Brembo Cross-Drilled/Slotted Rotors from Southwest Autoworks ($150/pair), but I want to see what my dealership says first. I have heard that machining the rotors is nothing useful and that the problem will come back soon after.

 

yup...sounds like it. But u dont have to get new rotors unless the thickness of the rotor does not meet the spec.

 

Dont waste your money on Crossed drilled rotors. Just get OEM rotors and PF pads. Cross drilled rotors dont really do anything. My rotors had warped 3 times and I took my car to my local Nissan dealer for the TSB. After the third time, I took the matter into my own pads and had the rotors turned and install PF Carbon Metallics. I havent had warped rotors since. This includes beating the **** out the brakes road racing. I have come to the conclusion, the OEM pads cause warping.

 

Did you present the TSB to the dealership when you brought in the car, or did they know about it? Maybe i'll just get them to replace the rotors with factory ones, and just upgrade the pads. Where can you get these Carbon Metalics from?

 

Do you have a Nissan?

























then

YES

 

Edit: Seriously though, there was a post a couple weeks ago that had an article explaining why once rotors warp they tend to warp again. I tried searching for it, but i couldn't find it. It said that it had something to do with the brakes not being properly worn in when new. Anyway if anyone remembers that.

 

You could prolly search and find it, I remember reading it. I've heard that the pads "mold" themselves to the shape of the rotor as well, so turning the rotors is only a temp. solution. Replacing the pads, AND turning the rotors fixed most problems.

ARFF