After much thinking and changing of my mind, I've decided on getting a supercharger within a month or two (don't want to install it in the bitter cold). But before I purchase, I have a few questions...

Blow-off Valves

What do you gain by using one as opposed to the one (recirc. valve?) that comes with the kit. Which do you guys recommend? I've read of lots of people using a Blitz one. What about Vortech's? I think someone (Mardi?) is using one here.

Clutch

I'm going to start with the stock pully. I know there's extra work to swap them, but I want a "baseline" if you will to work from. Will the stock clutch last at all with the stock pully? I know I'll need to upgrade sooner or later, but I'd rather do the clutch after the SC is in and working.

Fuel

The kit comes with an inline aux pump, correct? Do I need to use this if I already have my Walbaro/Sard combo in and working?

Idle pullies

Where can you purchase aluminum (non melting!) idler pullies? ASP? Where can you buy ASP products for that matter?

Bitter Cold

Any issues with using the SC in the bitter cold (-10*F or so)? I know you need to take it easy until your oil warms up, but other than that are there potential problems?

SC CAI

Is there anyway to install a CAI without loosing your washer fluid tank? I really can't do without it. Has anyone installed a smaller/new tank in a differen position and moved the pump and hardware for it?


Like I mentioned before, I'm going to start slow. Stock pully. Then work my way down. This way I can build around it if I need to (ie, safeguard, injectors, etc) and not have to do it all at once.

I think that's it. Feel free to add any other info that I didn't ask for. I will be installing it myself hopefully late this month or early March (pending no major surprises come tax time!).

 

BOV
The benifit is mostly sound. 10psi+ it would be a good idea to have a larger one so it can vent the air and not cause heat build up on the impeller.

Clutch
Stock should hold as long as is not overheated. If you do burn outs or back to back runs it will slip

Fuel
You dont need the pump but you do need the FMU

Idle Pullies
I have a V1 so I dunno bout dat

Cold
Let it warm up really good first

CAI
Their may be a way but I dunno bout dat

 

So, if I plan to get down to about a 3.25 pully or so, I just might-as-well install one right off the bat.

Any down side to having one with lower boost?

Any real difference in makes?

Just let her idle, or keep the RPM's way down?

Thanks for the info.

 

After 10psi upgrade it.

Keep the RPM's below 2500 for 5 minutes AFTER the temp gauge reaches the normal position

 

Get the Blitz, it bolts right onto the Stillen piping, the Vortech one will have to be reflanged. Stillen recommends the blitz, and most people here have no issue with it

Quote:

Clutch

I'm going to start with the stock pully. I know there's extra work to swap them, but I want a "baseline" if you will to work from. Will the stock clutch last at all with the stock pully? I know I'll need to upgrade sooner or later, but I'd rather do the clutch after the SC is in and working.

To many people's amazement I was able to get 8k out of my OEM clutch on a 3.125 pulley. It can be done. Just be easy on the launches. You seem like a reasonable guy, if you can excercise self control, you'll be OK.

Quote:

Fuel

The kit comes with an inline aux pump, correct? Do I need to use this if I already have my Walbaro/Sard combo in and working?

Keep your Walbro/Sard setup... You will need to use the FMU as Matt said, thro the inline pump and the hobbs switch in a box, forget about it. Less headaches to deal with.

Quote:

Idle pullies

Where can you purchase aluminum (non melting!) idler pullies? ASP? Where can you buy ASP products for that matter?

ASP makes em... www.aspracing.com I believe. Google it, you'll turn it up.

Quote:

Bitter Cold

Any issues with using the SC in the bitter cold (-10*F or so)? I know you need to take it easy until your oil warms up, but other than that are there potential problems?

Proper warmup is Key, I would make sure the temp guage is right in the middle, and no boosting for 5-10 min afterwards. If you can keep the RPMS down below 3k boost isn't an issue.

Quote:

SC CAI

Is there anyway to install a CAI without loosing your washer fluid tank? I really can't do without it. Has anyone installed a smaller/new tank in a differen position and moved the pump and hardware for it?

I tried, but eventually gave up and just took out the reservoir. I bought 2 tanks, went to my cuz's junkyard and picked up a couple of different ones, etc... too much hassle for me.

Quote:

Like I mentioned before, I'm going to start slow. Stock pully. Then work my way down. This way I can build around it if I need to (ie, safeguard, injectors, etc) and not have to do it all at once.

I think that's it. Feel free to add any other info that I didn't ask for. I will be installing it myself hopefully late this month or early March (pending no major surprises come tax time!).

Good luck man, if you need help/advice, feel free to gimme a shout.
Don't forget colder plugs if you don't have them from the nitrous setup already.

 

Vortech BOV will fit the stock flange, its a little over kill for under 10psi though.

 

I thought it fit your HKS Flange...

 

So unders 10 psi use one like the Blitz, and after upgrade to something better like the Vortech?

Are there any problems if the blower never gets that warm up? For example, my commute to work is all of 5 minutes tops. Right now my temp. guage bearly moves before I get there. I just keep the RPM's below 2500 all the way. That wouldn't hurt the blower any, would it?

 

Thanks for all the info! I'm sure I'll be asking plenty more as time goes on.

 

Under 10psi the bosch recirc valve is fine, over 10 you need an upgrade.

Not letting your car get up to operating temp is a very bad thing for the oil. When you start your car it starts very rich and allot of contaminants get into the oil till it gets resonably warm. If you dont get the oil up to operating temp and keep it their for a while the oil can not burn off these contaminants. The result is poor oil performance that will wear the engine out at an elivated rate. I would find a longer way to get to work.

 

Is there any downside to using a BOV under 10psi. Figure I'll get there eventually anyways.

I may have over exagerated. I payed close attention on the way in this morning. 8 min. trip with the car at full temp for a hair over 4 minutes of it. Maybe with the SC on colder days I'll just make another trip around the block or something. Thanks for the info.

 

Me and my pal made a resevoir mounting plate and bought an entirely new windshield washer resevoir. It comes with it's own pump and whatnot, and I have full use of my windshield washer

http://members.rogers.com/punkface/sc6.jpg
http://members.rogers.com/punkface/sc7.jpg

I can try and get the part number for you if your interested, but it requires some custom work for the bracket we made.

 

Any you fit a CAI down there with no problems? Cool.

Don't worry about part numbers. When then time comes I suppose I'll figure out my own custom setup.

Thanks for the pics though!

 

members.rogers.com/punkface/sc2.jpg

Picture through the foglight hole The tubing itself is a little ghetto, and was originally set up by the .org member, jgadlage, but it fits pretty well, and as you can see, fair amount of filter room. I'm running a monsterflow, but I'm pretty sure you could get a fair amount of other filters in there too.

 

Is that filter large enough to flow enough air for the SC? It looks like an intake people use on non-boosted engines.

 

 

It woulda been 12k out of that stocker had it not been for you...

ROFLMAO

 

22, (echo 22), (echo 22)

 

23

 

Prolly the slowest 1/4 mile time ever by a boosted Maxima, and it belongs to Sprint....

 

ur car

 

Forget boosted...from the sound of it that could have been the slowest over all.

 

No I have Dex (Supa Lao) running a worse time... ON VIDEO!!!

 

no dex aka supa lao ran a 23 also

 

Ouch