What could you do when changing a spark plug that would cause a injector to die?
No. With the arcing, you'd probably just get hesitating upon acceleration, or hard starting in cold weather. Check your injector connections and make sure they're clean, and if you do need to replace them, replace all 6, because if you replace 1, the funny thing is that another one will go or in tandem.
Originally posted by Will
No. With the arcing, you'd probably just get hesitating upon acceleration, or hard starting in cold weather. Check your injector connections and make sure they're clean, and if you do need to replace them, replace all 6, because if you replace 1, the funny thing is that another one will go or in tandem.
No. With the arcing, you'd probably just get hesitating upon acceleration, or hard starting in cold weather. Check your injector connections and make sure they're clean, and if you do need to replace them, replace all 6, because if you replace 1, the funny thing is that another one will go or in tandem.
Originally posted by 89sks
Check the wires harnesses going to the fuel injectors, Mine were rotted/cracked and shorting out. I could wiggle the wire while car was running and it would shake and studder. Replaced the harness and no more problems.
Check the wires harnesses going to the fuel injectors, Mine were rotted/cracked and shorting out. I could wiggle the wire while car was running and it would shake and studder. Replaced the harness and no more problems.
Originally posted by doomtoo
eh heh heh.... here's a silly question.... what do injectors look like? Or where are the connectors and that thing to test the voltage of them? I don't see anything in haynes, going to try searching on the boards a little more...
eh heh heh.... here's a silly question.... what do injectors look like? Or where are the connectors and that thing to test the voltage of them? I don't see anything in haynes, going to try searching on the boards a little more...
Originally posted by 89sks
Look on each side of the valve covers near where the spark plug wires go down to attach to the spark plugs. There are 3 on each side of the engine. Two wires that end in a small retangular shaped harness that snaps into another recepticle. Only other wires that are attaching in this area really, besides the plug wires. Course, my experience is with the VG and I've forgotten what you have so yours could be slightly different. But if you wiggle that wire, usually there will be an old dried out insulation boot where it will short out and cause the injector not to fire or spray.
Look on each side of the valve covers near where the spark plug wires go down to attach to the spark plugs. There are 3 on each side of the engine. Two wires that end in a small retangular shaped harness that snaps into another recepticle. Only other wires that are attaching in this area really, besides the plug wires. Course, my experience is with the VG and I've forgotten what you have so yours could be slightly different. But if you wiggle that wire, usually there will be an old dried out insulation boot where it will short out and cause the injector not to fire or spray.
thanks for the help(hopefully it'll do something)!
Originally posted by doomtoo
Oh yeah, when the mechanic replaced one of the injectors($600 for one, $1100 for all 6(didn't/don't have that kind of money)), two of them broke and he replaced those for $15 a peice. I was trying to check one a little before that, and the rubber is terribly brittle.
thanks for the help(hopefully it'll do something)!
Oh yeah, when the mechanic replaced one of the injectors($600 for one, $1100 for all 6(didn't/don't have that kind of money)), two of them broke and he replaced those for $15 a peice. I was trying to check one a little before that, and the rubber is terribly brittle.
thanks for the help(hopefully it'll do something)!
What could you do when changing a spark plug that would cause a injector to die?
My car ran perfect. A little slow, some hesitating off the line, but besides that perfect. 2k miles after I got it, I changed the spark plugs. Now it runs terrible. Loss of power, engine shakes, exhaust comming out in obvious "putt-putt" gasps, no steady flow. What could I have done? And then, a month later(after getting the engine mounts changed), an injector dies. #5. Got that one replaced, new fuel filter and an engine cleaning.
It made the car a little more "peppy", but the problem was still there. Vibration, exhaust comming in the same gasps of exhaust(smokes every now and then). And then it got a little worse. It doesn't do it as bad untill the car realizes it's warmed up. Then, "putt-putt-putt", (and convulsions).
What could I have done? I checked the injector connectors, it doesn't change when I wiggle them. I don't know where to check the ohms, but fuel injector cleaner doesn't do anything, I've been running straight 91 gas since I bought it. So it's not a clogged injector, whats the next step? The plug wires seem good, waiting untill dark to make sure they don't arc, but what should I do??
How much should it cost you to get your plugs changed with NGK(mechanic said $40)?
It made the car a little more "peppy", but the problem was still there. Vibration, exhaust comming in the same gasps of exhaust(smokes every now and then). And then it got a little worse. It doesn't do it as bad untill the car realizes it's warmed up. Then, "putt-putt-putt", (and convulsions).
What could I have done? I checked the injector connectors, it doesn't change when I wiggle them. I don't know where to check the ohms, but fuel injector cleaner doesn't do anything, I've been running straight 91 gas since I bought it. So it's not a clogged injector, whats the next step? The plug wires seem good, waiting untill dark to make sure they don't arc, but what should I do??
How much should it cost you to get your plugs changed with NGK(mechanic said $40)?
Re: What could you do when changing a spark plug that would cause a injector to die
Originally posted by doomtoo
So it's not a clogged injector
So it's not a clogged injector
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I just spent the last 15 min deleting your 2x posts and merging your seperate posts that ask the same damn thing.
Go ahead, keep it up.
I just spent the last 15 min deleting your 2x posts and merging your seperate posts that ask the same damn thing.
Go ahead, keep it up.
I didn't find any real detail through the search, just the faq's, but not about injectors...
Testing injectors:
1) Use a voltmeter to test ohm load
2) Disconnect them one at a time(if you can reach them while the car is running) to see if the car gets worse(good injector) or not(bad injector) Same test for the plug/plug wires
3) Take it to Nissan have them run the injectors though their Consult.
Make sure the connections are clean. There should be a procedure to check the injector harness also. YOU DO HAVE A NISSAN FSM CORRECT? AND YOU ARE USING THE STICKIES CORRECT?
It might be time to hand this over to a mechanic because it's hard to know if you have done all the previous stuff right.
1) Use a voltmeter to test ohm load
2) Disconnect them one at a time(if you can reach them while the car is running) to see if the car gets worse(good injector) or not(bad injector) Same test for the plug/plug wires
3) Take it to Nissan have them run the injectors though their Consult.
Make sure the connections are clean. There should be a procedure to check the injector harness also. YOU DO HAVE A NISSAN FSM CORRECT? AND YOU ARE USING THE STICKIES CORRECT?
It might be time to hand this over to a mechanic because it's hard to know if you have done all the previous stuff right.
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Testing injectors:
1) Use a voltmeter to test ohm load
2) Disconnect them one at a time(if you can reach them while the car is running) to see if the car gets worse(good injector) or not(bad injector) Same test for the plug/plug wires
3) Take it to Nissan have them run the injectors though their Consult.
Make sure the connections are clean. There should be a procedure to check the injector harness also. YOU DO HAVE A NISSAN FSM CORRECT? AND YOU ARE USING THE STICKIES CORRECT?
It might be time to hand this over to a mechanic because it's hard to know if you have done all the previous stuff right.
Testing injectors:
1) Use a voltmeter to test ohm load
2) Disconnect them one at a time(if you can reach them while the car is running) to see if the car gets worse(good injector) or not(bad injector) Same test for the plug/plug wires
3) Take it to Nissan have them run the injectors though their Consult.
Make sure the connections are clean. There should be a procedure to check the injector harness also. YOU DO HAVE A NISSAN FSM CORRECT? AND YOU ARE USING THE STICKIES CORRECT?
It might be time to hand this over to a mechanic because it's hard to know if you have done all the previous stuff right.
Ok, I found out what the FSM is(Factory Service Manual), but no, I don't have one. Would it be more helpful then the haynes? Is the place to pick one up at the nissan dealership? Are the stickies the messages that are on the top of the board, the faqs and such?(I just found detailed injector information for testing on bryans page)
My car's got the same problem- I fixed it myself a while ago and now its back (I guess its true about how they go out a couple at a time). I would recommend that you just get all of the injectors replaced- or at least replace the bad one (sounds like it might be spraying wide open- again like mine was) and send the rest out to get blueprinted and reconditioned if its cheaper. That's all if you plan on keeping the car- sounds like its been a money sink for you.
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