H&R or Motivational Upper Strut Mounts
H&R or Motivational Upper Strut Mounts
Hey guys, I have 2 different questions.
1. I am looking to soften up my ride a bit. I have the MaxSpeed/GR2 combo right now. My question is which of the following will have a more substantial effect on my ride quality: switching to H&R springs or buying motivational upper rear strut mounts.
2. If I buy the H&R springs, I will have to take apart the entire suspension again. But, if I decide to get the Motivational upper rear strut mounts, then I will only completely have to take apart the backs. Right now, none of my bump stops are cut, and I plan on cutting them. If I get the motivational upper strut mounts, the only reason I would have to take apart the front suspension would be to cut the bump stops. My question is, can I cut the bump stops without taking everything apart? Right now, I can see the bump stop clearly through the wheel well. If I jack the car up, will I be able to cut the parts off the rubber that I need to, all without even taking the wheel off? Or is some of the bump stop covered?
I hope this all made sense, because it was kinda hard to explain. Let me know guys, thanks!
1. I am looking to soften up my ride a bit. I have the MaxSpeed/GR2 combo right now. My question is which of the following will have a more substantial effect on my ride quality: switching to H&R springs or buying motivational upper rear strut mounts.
2. If I buy the H&R springs, I will have to take apart the entire suspension again. But, if I decide to get the Motivational upper rear strut mounts, then I will only completely have to take apart the backs. Right now, none of my bump stops are cut, and I plan on cutting them. If I get the motivational upper strut mounts, the only reason I would have to take apart the front suspension would be to cut the bump stops. My question is, can I cut the bump stops without taking everything apart? Right now, I can see the bump stop clearly through the wheel well. If I jack the car up, will I be able to cut the parts off the rubber that I need to, all without even taking the wheel off? Or is some of the bump stop covered?
I hope this all made sense, because it was kinda hard to explain. Let me know guys, thanks!
Get the Motivational mounts...I got them and totally love them. Mike (the sole owner and developer) is really cool too. Car is much more comfy, quiter, and feels like it performs better on mid-heavy turns. I'm riding on H&R's and I don't think I'd try and other spring. I realize the mounts cost about half as much as the springs, but I feel it's well worth it.
Hey,
If you're going to cut your bumpstops on the piston, what ever you do DO NOT scratch the piston itself. I think that's how my almost new GR2s started leaking. NJMAXseltd? gave me some insight on that. Also, I've noticed that GR2s are kinda stiff themselves, and add about half the harshness/stiffness to the ride. They produce a tight bounce over uneven road surface/highway.
Hope this helps.
If you're going to cut your bumpstops on the piston, what ever you do DO NOT scratch the piston itself. I think that's how my almost new GR2s started leaking. NJMAXseltd? gave me some insight on that. Also, I've noticed that GR2s are kinda stiff themselves, and add about half the harshness/stiffness to the ride. They produce a tight bounce over uneven road surface/highway.
Hope this helps.
Originally posted by 2KxSEx
Hey,
If you're going to cut your bumpstops on the piston, what ever you do DO NOT scratch the piston itself. I think that's how my almost new GR2s started leaking. NJMAXseltd? gave me some insight on that. Also, I've noticed that GR2s are kinda stiff themselves, and add about half the harshness/stiffness to the ride. They produce a tight bounce over uneven road surface/highway.
Hope this helps.
Hey,
If you're going to cut your bumpstops on the piston, what ever you do DO NOT scratch the piston itself. I think that's how my almost new GR2s started leaking. NJMAXseltd? gave me some insight on that. Also, I've noticed that GR2s are kinda stiff themselves, and add about half the harshness/stiffness to the ride. They produce a tight bounce over uneven road surface/highway.
Hope this helps.
Should be fine yeah. Are your dustboots cut apart already? If not, you're going to have to cut them to get to the front bump stops. The rear dustboots/bumpstops are one unit as you prolly know already. But, from personal experience cutting the bumpstops won't do much for you w/Maxspeeds, because I think the GR2s can't handle them no matter what you do to your bumpstops or anything else along those lines. Maxspeeds are very stiff in my opinion. So, what I'm trying to say is don't ruin your bumpstops/dustboots because it won't really help in your situation. Those boots cost a lot($80-90 a set). I'm currently driving on brand new GR2 shocks/struts with the stock springs and feel that my car handles better than it ever did w/maxspeeds. Plus my ride is finally tolerable?. Furthermore, I have z rated tires and disconnected my Front Sway Bar(not the Strut Bar). This setup makes my car more neutral in turns, not as front heavy. Sort of like putting on a rear sway bar.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other question that I'll try to answer for you.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other question that I'll try to answer for you.
Originally posted by 2KxSEx
Should be fine yeah. Are your dustboots cut apart already? If not, you're going to have to cut them to get to the front bump stops. The rear dustboots/bumpstops are one unit as you prolly know already. But, from personal experience cutting the bumpstops won't do much for you w/Maxspeeds, because I think the GR2s can't handle them no matter what you do to your bumpstops or anything else along those lines. Maxspeeds are very stiff in my opinion. So, what I'm trying to say is don't ruin your bumpstops/dustboots because it won't really help in your situation. Those boots cost a lot($80-90 a set). I'm currently driving on brand new GR2 shocks/struts with the stock springs and feel that my car handles better than it ever did w/maxspeeds. Plus my ride is finally tolerable?. Furthermore, I have z rated tires and disconnected my Front Sway Bar(not the Strut Bar). This setup makes my car more neutral in turns, not as front heavy. Sort of like putting on a rear sway bar.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other question that I'll try to answer for you.
Should be fine yeah. Are your dustboots cut apart already? If not, you're going to have to cut them to get to the front bump stops. The rear dustboots/bumpstops are one unit as you prolly know already. But, from personal experience cutting the bumpstops won't do much for you w/Maxspeeds, because I think the GR2s can't handle them no matter what you do to your bumpstops or anything else along those lines. Maxspeeds are very stiff in my opinion. So, what I'm trying to say is don't ruin your bumpstops/dustboots because it won't really help in your situation. Those boots cost a lot($80-90 a set). I'm currently driving on brand new GR2 shocks/struts with the stock springs and feel that my car handles better than it ever did w/maxspeeds. Plus my ride is finally tolerable?. Furthermore, I have z rated tires and disconnected my Front Sway Bar(not the Strut Bar). This setup makes my car more neutral in turns, not as front heavy. Sort of like putting on a rear sway bar.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other question that I'll try to answer for you.
Yeah, i got the idea from the guys in the Autocrossing forum. It actually works pretty good. There's a little bit more body roll now, but the neutral feeling in turns makes up for that. And the turn in of the car is a little loose, but once it grabs it GRABS baby :
Supposely it makes the car a little more "tail happy".
Peace.
Supposely it makes the car a little more "tail happy".Peace.
Originally posted by 2KxSEx
Should be fine yeah. Are your dustboots cut apart already? If not, you're going to have to cut them to get to the front bump stops. Furthermore, I have z rated tires and disconnected my Front Sway Bar(not the Strut Bar). This setup makes my car more neutral in turns, not as front heavy. Sort of like putting on a rear sway bar.
Should be fine yeah. Are your dustboots cut apart already? If not, you're going to have to cut them to get to the front bump stops. Furthermore, I have z rated tires and disconnected my Front Sway Bar(not the Strut Bar). This setup makes my car more neutral in turns, not as front heavy. Sort of like putting on a rear sway bar.
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Motivational mounts will give you some more suspension travel in the rear, but they will not alter the ride quality on your MaxSpeed/GR2 setup. Larger bumps will be tolerated much better, but crusing down the road is still going to be very firm.
You have two choices.
1) Switch to H&R springs - You'll losen up slightly but you'll still have a bit of a bounce from KYB's valving.
2) Switch to Tokico Struts up front - That will losen up the front a bit.
The GR2's are valved basically the same as the AGX's setup on 1 front and 2 rear. There firm, nothing you can do about it.
Tokico struts are valved much different then KYB's lineup of struts & shocks. They ride a lot smoother.
It's not so much the Maxspeeds thats giving you the bounce, it's the firm struts that are doing that. Put a loser strut in and the funny car bounce smooths out.
You have two choices.
1) Switch to H&R springs - You'll losen up slightly but you'll still have a bit of a bounce from KYB's valving.
2) Switch to Tokico Struts up front - That will losen up the front a bit.
The GR2's are valved basically the same as the AGX's setup on 1 front and 2 rear. There firm, nothing you can do about it.
Tokico struts are valved much different then KYB's lineup of struts & shocks. They ride a lot smoother.
It's not so much the Maxspeeds thats giving you the bounce, it's the firm struts that are doing that. Put a loser strut in and the funny car bounce smooths out.
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Originally posted by djshawnee
So all people with AGX's have this firm bounce?
So all people with AGX's have this firm bounce?
You feel the road much more. Bumps or road irregularities aren't absorbed, but rather transmitted into the body a bit more.
Originally posted by djshawnee
So all people with AGX's have this firm bounce?
So all people with AGX's have this firm bounce?
I might switch to the Tokicos up front so I can absorb the little imperfections that my stock ride used to absorb.
Originally posted by 2KxSEx
And the TRUTH finally comes out
It's good to know I'm not the only one who thought that the GR2s are firm. And everyone said "they're just like stock". Yeah right. Half of those ppl didn't even own a pair.
Peace.
And the TRUTH finally comes out
It's good to know I'm not the only one who thought that the GR2s are firm. And everyone said "they're just like stock". Yeah right. Half of those ppl didn't even own a pair. Peace.
You've got it backwards. You need to adjust the struts to fit the characteristics of the springs. Firmer springs require firmer struts to control the bounce and improve ride quality. You'll be amazed at how much your ride quality improves when you adjust the struts. If I dial my struts back to "soft", my car feels more bouncy and a bit more harsh (H&Rs). If I increase the valving to about 30-50% (depending on temperature), most of the bounce is gone and the harsh changes to firm (ie no crashing over bumps). Technically, when you add stock or mostly stock struts (OEM, Tokico, GR2) to performance springs, you're letting more of the spring control the ride, not the strut. It needs to be the other way around. I'd never consider using Tokico or GR2s to dampen any of the available aftermarket springs for Maximas.
Dave
Dave
Dave,
I have adj Struts on my '91 Z. When I switch to sport mode you feel every bump on the road.
When you sent the strut to firm the piston will not compress as easily thus transferring bumps or other road imperfections through the suspension.
I have adj Struts on my '91 Z. When I switch to sport mode you feel every bump on the road.
When you sent the strut to firm the piston will not compress as easily thus transferring bumps or other road imperfections through the suspension.
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Originally posted by Dave B
You need to adjust the struts to fit the characteristics of the springs.
You need to adjust the struts to fit the characteristics of the springs.
Firmer springs require firmer struts to control the bounce and improve ride quality.
The bunny hop ride some are complaining about is produced from struts & shocks valved so firm that they almost don't let the suspension absorb road irregularities. Great for performance, not so great for ride comfort.
I have AGX's coupled with stock springs for the winter. I can't run the AGX's anywhere over 2 or I get the firm bunny hop ride. Again, great for the twisties, but not so great on a long trip.
It's not springs that's giving us this annoying ride, it's the struts.
Have you ever heard of anybody with Tokico's complain about a bouncy ride? Most report a very smooth ride, especially when coupled with H&R's.
The more free travel you give your suspension, the better the ride. You verified that when you installed the Motivational rear mounts and gained about an inch of shock travel.
There is a point where a softer strut like Tokico will no longer be able to dampen the spring if the rate is to high. Thats when AGX's come into the picture. You can adjust them to match the spring accordingly. But don't expect a smooth ride, it aint gonna happen.
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In the end, it's not worth it to cut them when you have maxspeeds, because it's not going to help a whole lot in my opinion.
