So I got a brake inspection done at Midas and my front pads are down to 1/32 inch. I gotta switch the pads this weekend. They also said my front rotors aren't bad, but are too thin to be turned any more so I'll need to get them fixed. Also, there's a slight leak in the caliper, but not enough to register a change in the master cylinder level. Midas wanted over 700 for the parts and labor which is crazy for the generic stuff they sell.

Anyway, I need to know what material pads and rotors to get? I'm gonna buy the stuff from NAPA or some local auto store since I don't think I can really wait to get brembos in the mail. Also, I'm not looking for drilled or slotted since my car is all stock - it doesn't go fast enough to have to stop that fast

I haven't done a brake job before, but I've got a friend that's going to be around to help me if I get in trouble. But I do have a few questions that the search didn't answer. Should I be getting metalic, semi-metalic, or organic pads? Also, does anyone know what rotors are better - Napa United, Tru-Stop, or Beck Arnley? Also, do I need to get a new hardware kit or can I just use the ones currently on the brakes...they're not damaged in any way.

Sorry for all the questions, but once I have the car apart, it's not like I can go back to get the right parts.

Thanks.

 

Since you are going to replace the front rotors anyway I would order the Brembo Blanks from NOPI for $31.16 each plus shipping. your brake pads have enough left to go a little while - couple of weeks. Raybestos makes an organic (ceramic) Pad that is very quiet and dusts much less than OEM. It is called Raybestos Quiet Stops and it comes with self adhesive shims. They are $56 at Pep Boys. This should eliminate the need for brake kits. I would get a set of 4 Caliper pins for your front calipers, they are $23 for all 4 at Advance Auto. You'll need some synthetic high temp grease $3, couple of cans of aerosol brake cleaner and some anti squeal compound. See if you can borrow a brake bleeder from Auto Parts Store. Did the Midas mechanic actually show you the leaking caliper? Once you start replacing calipers you are opening Pandora's box, you sometimes end up replacing all your calipers one by one. If there is actually a leak I would replace both front calipers to keep balanced braking performance. NOPI has rebuilt front calipers for $102 each. So here is a cut at cost:
$62.32 2 brembo front rotors
$56.00 Raybestos QS front pads
$204.00 2 front calipers, comes with brake kit, these are rebuilt.
$23.00 Front caliper pins
$15.00 High Temp Grease, CRC Antisqueal compound and brake cleaner

$360.32 total for parts, doing a first class job. Just about half of what Midas quoted you and it includes both front rotors and calipers.

 

I'd be wary of Midas. If you're concerned, get a second opinion.
A disc brake job is fairly easy to do, if you have a bit of mechanical know how and tools. Be sure you have a C-clamp to push the piston back in so you can rotate the caliper off the disc. I believe there's a pretty good write up at www.motorvate.ca - even though it's for a 4th gen. A good shop or Haynes/Chilton's is handy as well.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I was a bit anxious to get the brake job done this weekend becasue the squeel from the brakes is becoming much more regular so brembos may not be an option.

Are there any quality rotors I can get at local auto shops(Kragens, Pep Boys, etc)? Are the Raybestos rotors any good?

The Midas tech lifed up a seal at the edge of the caliper and there was some fluid there, but like I said, after filling up the master cylinder to the max line during the summer, the fluid level hasn't dipped.

karguy, what do you mean it will open a pandora's box. How does replacing the front calipers (going to change both for even stops)eventually require replacement of the rears as well?

 

Once you start replacing wheel cylinders or calipers the other ones seem to go bad. I think the hydraulic system ages together and when you replace a caliper the other caliper in that diagonal braking path is getting additional pressure and sometimes start leaking. The diagonal brake paths are RF and LR and LF RR. It has just been my experience. Basically what you described as a leak (Midas Tech) I probably would just replace the pads and rotors and see what happens!

 

Bah... They're full of it.

Beck Arnley rotors are actually Brembo, just packed in a different box. least that's what I've found locally.

for pads, pick up some OEM 3rd or 4th gen pads. the 4th gen pads have a tad bit more metal in them, so they'll brake a small percentage better.
After that, look at Bendix or Raybestos pads. pretty good value for the money.


Instead of spending $200 on new calipers, simply rebuild your current ones. a rebuild kit costs about $15-20 from nissan and is enough to rebuild both front calipers. it includes all the new seals and lubricants for the slider pins, pistons, etc. plan about an hour to rebuild them, and an hour of tearing stuff apart and putting back together.

Also, if you want to wait for the new parts, just stick some new cheapo pads on the car for a week. it'll cost $15, but you can get the good stuff on there.

Then again, if you're going to throw the old rotors away, just keep driving on those until you get the new ones in. if doesn't matter if you run out of pad and go metal to metal if you're going to throw it all away anyway.

 

your getting ripped, a while ago i blew the front right wheel cylinder, which messed evey thing up front. got ceramic brakes, new rotors, both calipers and wheel cylinders replaced for i think like 680 or some where close to that. went to tirekingdom, local place by me

 

i did my own brake job when a LR caliper siezed on me okay, so i was doing some e-brake sliding in a gravel lot, but i replaced the caliper, all 4 rotors and pads and it still cost me under $400, including the case of beer i used to pay my friends to help. None of us had done a brake job before, but we started at noon and were done by sunset (summer). good luck with it.