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A few questions about a 2001 Maxima SE..

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Old Sep 15, 2015 | 07:08 PM
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A few questions about a 2001 Maxima SE..

This is my first post here, so I'm sorry if I do something wrong(Wrong section or something.)

I was going to post in the beginner question thread but I saw that the last post was over two weeks ago so I wasn't sure... I also searched but couldn't find anything that exactly answered all my questions.

So, here I go.

First off, let me say that this is my sister's car. She really couldn't care less about the AC and just says that it's almost winter, and in the summer she'll just roll the windows. But I know I don't want to be sitting in the car with no AC.

She also "supposedly" couldn't care less about performance parts as it "Goes way more than fast enough already" but I think she'd like a nice rumble and some extra power.

And finally, just for more info, she bought this car late last year with just under 150000 miles. It has near that many now. Only problems(besides the AC) with it was that one of the engine fans motors stopped working, and there was a small rad leak. But with stop-leak and just buying a new fan motor, they were both easy fixes.

And of course, I'll probably be buying all of this so keep it cheap as possible.


Now, what would be the best way to diagnose what's wrong with the A/C? All I know is that sometimes it blows cool, but when it gets to being 90-100F outside, the air is barely any cooler. I know that the compressor turns on, but it doesn't look like the clutch comes out.(I probably sound pretty stupid.. My father is the more knowledgeable person with this. So he'll probably understand anything said here.) It was recently filled up with Freon.

2nd question. Is there anything that is known for having to be changed/fixed in the 2001 SE other than routine maintenance?(Which this one is probably up for unfortunately)

3rd question. What are some cheap cheap performance parts to give it just a little more power from the start, mostly just make it feel faster. I have to agree when she says it's fast enough.

And with question 3, something to give it a nice rumble/sporty noise. Not super loud fartsy noise, just something nice and sporty.

I was looking at those 30-50$ Cold air intakes off of ebay, but the cheap ones(Chromeintakes comes to mind) don't seem to come for the 2001 maxima. I can find them for the 2002, just not the 01.

Also, the easier to install, the better. I'd actually like to install some of this, and I have close to no experience. If something is just one of those "needed" upgrades, I can have my father help.

Probably sounds stupid, and I'm not sure if anything cheap even does this, but I would rather not lower the lifespan at all. If anything, I'd like to raise it. Although I hear they easily go 250000 with regular maintenance.

I know I had more questions, but I forgot. And I think this is enough for now.


Thanks!!!
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 05:26 AM
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The most important thing at this point is to buy a new radiator (you can get on for under $50 on ebay). Stop leak is only temporary.
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by QueensMAX
The most important thing at this point is to buy a new radiator (you can get on for under $50 on ebay). Stop leak is only temporary.
Do this first.

For the other stuff, if it's your sister's car, I wouldn't waste time/money on mods. Just do the maintenance.

As far as the AC goes, if the AC compressor is spinning, then the AC is engaging and you'll need to refill the system with refrigerant. If the compressor is not running, then either the clutch is bad or the refrigerant is so low that the cutoff kicks in and it does not allow refrigerant in.
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by QueensMAX
The most important thing at this point is to buy a new radiator (you can get on for under $50 on ebay). Stop leak is only temporary.
Woops, I should have said this in the OP. My neighbor owns a body shop, I already have him on the look out for a nice one cheap. He's been able to get most things for me really cheap.

Originally Posted by rbaksi
Do this first.

For the other stuff, if it's your sister's car, I wouldn't waste time/money on mods. Just do the maintenance.

As far as the AC goes, if the AC compressor is spinning, then the AC is engaging and you'll need to refill the system with refrigerant. If the compressor is not running, then either the clutch is bad or the refrigerant is so low that the cutoff kicks in and it does not allow refrigerant in.
The compressor is kicking on, but my father said the clutch isn't engaging. I can see the belt spinning when the AC is turned on, but the clutch doesn't pop out.


In all honesty, I'm the one who wants the mods. I drive it every once in awhile, and ride it in even more. It's just asking for something..
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 12:56 PM
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$50 for a new radiator is very cheap. I don't know how much cheaper you can get.

As far as the AC you can just replace the clutch. But, you may also have a leak somewhere so if you did charge it, it may have leaked out by now. I doubt there is a problem with the clutch though the way you describe the symptoms. It sounds like either:

1. The compressor is old and needs to be replaced (works intermittently and may be overheating or drawing too many amps to overheat and die when it is hotter because it has to work that much harder).

2. Refrigerant leak somewhere causing it to go low.

3. Condenser on the front is clogged or the exterior needs cleaning. When the condenser is dirty on the outside the AC system has to work that much harder to keep the system cool. You end up with running much higher pressure in the AC system than normal.

Forget about the performance mods. Do the repairs first...

If you want better sound look at a short ram intake. Those can be made for fairly cheap.
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
$50 for a new radiator is very cheap. I don't know how much cheaper you can get.

As far as the AC you can just replace the clutch. But, you may also have a leak somewhere so if you did charge it, it may have leaked out by now. I doubt there is a problem with the clutch though the way you describe the symptoms. It sounds like either:

1. The compressor is old and needs to be replaced (works intermittently and may be overheating or drawing too many amps to overheat and die when it is hotter because it has to work that much harder).

2. Refrigerant leak somewhere causing it to go low.

3. Condenser on the front is clogged or the exterior needs cleaning. When the condenser is dirty on the outside the AC system has to work that much harder to keep the system cool. You end up with running much higher pressure in the AC system than normal.

Forget about the performance mods. Do the repairs first...

If you want better sound look at a short ram intake. Those can be made for fairly cheap.
Well, when there's still time I'll be looking for cheaper. If I can't find one, she'll just have to spend that much.

I didn't make this clear, but she's paying for parts that are actually needed repair wise. New rad etc.

As for the AC, if it comes down to buying a whole new compressor, I can guarantee you she's just going to leave it as-is. At least until next summer that is.

I'm pretty sure it's not overheating, because the clutch never seems to engage. At first, the air is cold, but the clutch never pops out.


Can I just use the pressure gauge on the Freon can to see if it has a leak/is low?


Also, I understand.. I guess I'll be putting my money into repairing it instead of mods.. Better for the both of us, and the car..
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by pears
Well, when there's still time I'll be looking for cheaper. If I can't find one, she'll just have to spend that much. I didn't make this clear, but she's paying for parts that are actually needed repair wise. New rad etc. As for the AC, if it comes down to buying a whole new compressor, I can guarantee you she's just going to leave it as-is. At least until next summer that is. I'm pretty sure it's not overheating, because the clutch never seems to engage. At first, the air is cold, but the clutch never pops out. Can I just use the pressure gauge on the Freon can to see if it has a leak/is low? Also, I understand.. I guess I'll be putting my money into repairing it instead of mods.. Better for the both of us, and the car..
How do you know the clutch isn't engaging? Are you watching the compressor with the AC on?

To find a leak you really need to put dye in the system and use a uv light to find it. This can be done pretty easily from parts at the auto store.
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 06:10 PM
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doesnt GAB mod give some additional vroom vroom noise? thats pretty much free
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry
How do you know the clutch isn't engaging? Are you watching the compressor with the AC on?

To find a leak you really need to put dye in the system and use a uv light to find it. This can be done pretty easily from parts at the auto store.
I watched it as the AC came on. The belt goes, but the clutch doesn't do anything.

Thanks! I'll see what I can find.

Originally Posted by cornholio
doesnt GAB mod give some additional vroom vroom noise? thats pretty much free
Never heard of it, but I'll look around!
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by pears
I watched it as the AC came on. The belt goes, but the clutch doesn't do anything.

Thanks! I'll see what I can find.



Never heard of it, but I'll look around!
fyi GAB = Ghetto Air Box to help your search
Old Sep 16, 2015 | 08:49 PM
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When you look at the a/c clutch, look at the very center. The belt spins all the time and when the a/c clutch engages, the center of the pulley will turn. Look at this before you turn the a/c on and then after you turn the a/c on. If the R134A refrigerant is low, the compressor will not turn on.

I don't trust the pressure gauges on the do-it-yourself R134A cans. Take the car to a shop that charges $29 to diagnose the a/c system.

Remember one thing on your hell-bent fetish to mod the car - IT ISN'T YOUR CAR! If you want peace in the family, do nor do anything that makes the car louder. And the gab falls into this category. If you like to fight, then do what ever you want regardless of what others say.
Old Sep 17, 2015 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
When you look at the a/c clutch, look at the very center. The belt spins all the time and when the a/c clutch engages, the center of the pulley will turn. Look at this before you turn the a/c on and then after you turn the a/c on. If the R134A refrigerant is low, the compressor will not turn on.

I don't trust the pressure gauges on the do-it-yourself R134A cans. Take the car to a shop that charges $29 to diagnose the a/c system.

Remember one thing on your hell-bent fetish to mod the car - IT ISN'T YOUR CAR! If you want peace in the family, do nor do anything that makes the car louder. And the gab falls into this category. If you like to fight, then do what ever you want regardless of what others say.
I've looked at it after/before and I've watched it as someone is turning on the AC. I see no movement in the center of the pulley. I'll go out and look today, as they've said the AC is almost what it was. Which isn't really cold, but is still AC instead of just outside air.


Nonono. I'm not doing anything without telling her. I'm getting opinion, telling her all of them, and seeing if she wants anything done. If it's a no, then that's that.

Oh and two more things.

There's a "Brand new" radiator for a 95'-03'(Or close, I know it covers 01) Maxima on the local craigslist for $75. Could probably get him to come down.

Is it worth buying new? Or just but a junkyard one for less?


2: Don't ask me how I got it mixed up, but this Maxima only has 122000 miles. Not 150000+
Old Sep 17, 2015 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by pears
I've looked at it after/before and I've watched it as someone is turning on the AC. I see no movement in the center of the pulley. I'll go out and look today, as they've said the AC is almost what it was. Which isn't really cold, but is still AC instead of just outside air.


Nonono. I'm not doing anything without telling her. I'm getting opinion, telling her all of them, and seeing if she wants anything done. If it's a no, then that's that.

Oh and two more things.

There's a "Brand new" radiator for a 95'-03'(Or close, I know it covers 01) Maxima on the local craigslist for $75. Could probably get him to come down.

Is it worth buying new? Or just but a junkyard one for less?


2: Don't ask me how I got it mixed up, but this Maxima only has 122000 miles. Not 150000+
New radiator, don't go used. Amazon has for $60.

Amazon.com: TYC 2329 Nissan Maxima 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator: Automotive Amazon.com: TYC 2329 Nissan Maxima 1-Row Plastic Aluminum Replacement Radiator: Automotive
Old Sep 17, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by foodmanry

That'll work with an 01 automatic?

If so, thanks!!!


I was looking at this one. https://bham.craigslist.org/pts/5208040985.html
Old Sep 17, 2015 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pears
That'll work with an 01 automatic?

If so, thanks!!!


I was looking at this one. https://bham.craigslist.org/pts/5208040985.html
i put the exact one he linked there in a 00 auto a month or two ago. so far no complaints. i can't think why there would be any difference from the 00 to 01 models
Old Sep 18, 2015 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cornholio
i put the exact one he linked there in a 00 auto a month or two ago. so far no complaints. i can't think why there would be any difference from the 00 to 01 models
Yes, radiators for 00 and 01 are the same.
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