MIL: code 1106, any suggestions?
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i have lost overdrive in my auto 96 GXE. check engine light was on. reads code 1106 = A/T 4th sig or TCC. everything else is fine. its like driving around with overdrive turned off. i have an appointment with my local shop on friday. i called the nissan dealer today and they said it could need a total transmission rebuild, around $2500!! anybody have any advice? thanks in advance.
ryan
ryan
Troubleshooting instructions
Originally posted by Ryan96gxe
i have lost overdrive in my auto 96 GXE. check engine light was on. reads code 1106 = A/T 4th sig or TCC. everything else is fine. its like driving around with overdrive turned off. i have an appointment with my local shop on friday. i called the nissan dealer today and they said it could need a total transmission rebuild, around $2500!! anybody have any advice? thanks in advance.
ryan
i have lost overdrive in my auto 96 GXE. check engine light was on. reads code 1106 = A/T 4th sig or TCC. everything else is fine. its like driving around with overdrive turned off. i have an appointment with my local shop on friday. i called the nissan dealer today and they said it could need a total transmission rebuild, around $2500!! anybody have any advice? thanks in advance.
ryan
- Shift solenoid A
- Shift solenoid B
- Overrun clutch solenoid valve
- Line pressure solenoid valve
- Each clutch
- Hydraulic control circuit
- Torque converter clutch solenoid valve
You can do some troubleshooting without opening the automatic transmission. Find the harnesses which emanate from the transaxle. One of them terminates in a brown plastic connector with eight pins. This is connector F42, located (approximately) above the transaxle case and below the black plastic engine air intake ductwork. With the engine off, disconnect F42. You want to measure the transmission side of F42. Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top. You should now see two rows of four terminals. These are numbered (top row, left to right) 1 - 4, and (bottom row, left to right) 5 - 8. Make resistance measurements between a clean ground and the following terminals:
#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.
There is also a "bench test" procedure for testing these solenoids with a 12 volt supply such as a car battery. However, this requires removal of the shift solenoid valve assembly. I don't know if you want to get involved with that.
Causing any damage?
Originally posted by Ryan96gxe
thanks for the info, im sure my local shop would not have known any of that. am i causing any damage to my transmission b/c i have continued to drive with this problem ?
thanks for the info, im sure my local shop would not have known any of that. am i causing any damage to my transmission b/c i have continued to drive with this problem ?
Have you changed the Automatic Transmission Fluid recently? If not, that might be worth the $80 gamble. ATF is loaded with detergents and a fresh load can sometimes free up sticking internal mechanisms.
You can tell something about the condition of your transmission's internal parts by using the dipstick.
1) Level. It should be up to the full mark. If not, add as required.
2) Color. It should be bright red and translucent. If it is brown or black that is a bad sign.
3) Odor. It should have a clean oily smell. If it smells burned that is a bad sign.
4) Feel. Wipe the dipstick with your fingers and then rub your fingers together. It should be smooth and slippery. If you feel any grit that is a bad sign.
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