I've read a lot of posts here where people talk about "blown" struts and a "rough ride". A "rough ride" is such a subjective term and I am trying to decide if replacing my struts is really necessary or if there is another culprit for my "rough ride".
My car actually rides "fairly" smooth (no rattles, stranges noises, etc,..) but I have 135,000 miles on it and the ride isn't as smooth/cushy as it once was. The quality of the ride deteriorates so gradually over time that it is difficult to know if rough is "really" rough. Bottom line I don't want to replace the struts (It's expensive) if I can't expect some "real" improvement in the quality of the ride. Midas quoted me $465.00 to replace the front and rear. I need some Maxima expertise on this subject. What are signs that I need to replace the struts? What is a reasonable price to expect to pay? Help!

 

Try the "bounce" test.

apply your body weight onto each corner of your car, and let off..

if there is more than 1 rebound or bounce that takes place after you let it go.. struts are probably worn.

My struts are shot, I have almost as many miles as you.. My car rides like crap, very stiff..


also,
you should look into aftermarket struts as opposed to factory ones. Aftermarket struts are typically far cheaper and are of better quality, probably more lasting.

Look into KYB GR2 struts for direct stock replacements, and into KYB AGX which have an adjustable ride quality.. which you may find a nice feature.

Also,
don't go to Meineke only because you can likely find a better deal from a mom n pop repair shop..

 

Worn out dampers get softer so the ride tends to get more floaty.
Very true indeed. You don't realize how soft it gets until you either replace them or ride in a similar car with new struts.
At 135,000 miles they are showing signs of ware. Even if there functioning correctly, aftermarket equipment will make your car ride better and handle better. Just changing your struts and shocks will give you that new car feeling back. Especially at the mileage your at. $465 from Midas isn't that bad, I assume they will be using Monroe or something along that level. If you like your car and want to give it a that new car feeling back, replace your struts and rear shocks. There are other aftermarket units available, Tokico Blue performance or KYB GR2. Either one of those will give you a bit more handling while maintaining a smooth ride. Beware with Midas thou.. there are other components that will need to be replaced. Dust covers and strut bearings are common items that ware down over time. Midas may not replace things like that for you which may cause premature failure of your struts and shocks. Have a local mechanic take a look at the suspension and tell you what needs to be replaced. Shop around a bit too. Remember you will need a wheel alignment after the front struts have been replaced. You might find a shop that can do your struts, rear shocks and align your car all at once. Makes things a lot easier for you.

Search around the org a bit, there's lots of info on suspension up here.

 

You can look for signs of fluid leakage in your struts/shocks by lifting up the boot (accordian shaped thing). See if there are any traces of fluid that's left a mark. When my Nissan dealership told me I needed to replace my rear shocks, I checked them out on my own that way.

njmaxseltd: You mentioned a wheel alignment is needed after the front struts are replaced. What's the reason for that? I thought it's needed if the ride height is changed from putting shorter springs on. Am I lacking some info?

 

You are right, front struts replaced does not need a wheel alignment afterwards. That's b/s that shops tell you to make more money.

 

I thought it was in the haynes manual that you need an alignment after front struts.

 

If you decide to replace the front struts you'll need to replace strut mounts, and strut bearings for sure too. Don't just replace the struts, I made that mistake and struts were unmounted 2 times to replace the strut mounts and strut bearings, so do all the components at a time, and expect to pay the double that Midas quoted you, suspension components are expensive and you'll need to use as much OEM components as your pocket can afford, otherwise your car never will be the same and soft ride will be no more noticed in your car ever ! You can use Aftermarket struts like TOKICO blue or KYB GR-2 but just those components can be aftermarket, don't use for any reason KYB strut mounts, you'll waste your money so bad.

 

You will "definitely" need to get the car realigned after changing front struts. This is a "no brainer". I just had mine replaced and as soon as he connected to the alignment system, the specs were completely off and needed readjustment. Secondly, struts are designed to last 60-70,000 miles before they start to show signs of wear. At 135,000 miles, I would definitely replace them. I am sure you will notice the ride difference once they are replaced. The bounce test is a common way to check for bad struts. However, a more definitive test is to check for leaks. If they are leaking, then you will need to replace them. Check your tires for abnormal were (feathering, cupping). This would be a sign of a bad strut(s).

 

Thanks so much for all the info guys, you are always a big help. It's been difficult deciding whether to change these struts without any obvisous signs of wear (tire wear, leakage, floating after a bump, etc,.) but after your comments and investigating (after all I do have 135,000 miles)the site I think I will replace front and rear to include mounts and bearings; I'll just bite the bullet (price wise), take this one time hit and hope that the ride dramatically improves. I want "real" improvement for the cost of this stuff. Suspension equipment is expensive for sure. Again, thanks.

 

Could you please explain the REASON. I want to learn. I'm missing a few neurons in that dept. Thx!

 

The lower strut bolts hold the steering hub assembly to the strut. Once that is taken apart your camber & toe settings are upset slightly. When camber changes, toe changes. You can never get that assembly precisely where it was prior to taking it apart, especially if your putting new components on. Things will line up slightly different. Even a degree of camber change will cause toe to change on our front ends.

Your alignment isn't going to change much, only a degree or so if that. But it's important to have it set correctly once the job is complete. If you need prof that things changed, ask for a before and after print out of your alignemnt specs, you'll see the change.

 

Thx njmaxseltd.

 

I trust what njmaxseltd says about suspensions..he knows a thing or two about suspension components.