Im having a persistent problem with my brakes pulsating when I stop. It's progressively gotten worse and worse to the point that I know if I don't find a problem soon, something major is going to happen. I assume the problem lies in my rotors. To the touch they still feel smooth as glass but theres obviously something wrong. Now if I were to replace them, I was planning on getting the ones they sell over at Checker since they're so damn cheap. Is it worth buying rotors that are drilled and slotted? Obviously high performance but I dont drive like a bat out of hell and I can't see myself needed high performance rotors.

Is the problem even with the rotors? If so, should I just get the basic ones from Checker? Is it worth getting the rotors resurfaced since I get can new rotors for 26 bucks each.

Also, while I'm at it. Ive seen a few threads here on the best wax around. I dont want to spend 50 bucks for a single bottle nor do I want to buy it online since I plan on waxing this weekend. What do you all recommend? I wish I knew the name of the brand I was recommended. It's some acronym that comes in a paint thinner looking can. Is the rainx stuff any good?

 

Only advice I can give is to avoid any rotor not made in the USA or Canada. Many of the "cheap" rotors are made in China and are poor castings. They can't cool fast enough and warp easy (warping is the problem you have now). NAPA sells quality rotors made in the USA.

I can't commment on the drilled or slotted rotors; never used them.

By the way, some places like Autozone will guarantee their rotors and they've told me that they have no way to tell if they are warped or not. They take your word for it when you bring them in for a free exchange. If you're handy and don't mind changing rotors every year, that may be an option.

 

Have your rotors resurfaced and your pulsation will go away. If it continues to come back quickly (few months later) then you should replace them. You can pick up a generic brand at most auto parts stores or you can get a better name brand such as Brembo replacements.

Don't go back to Nissan for them, you'll pay way to much for the quality (or lack of) that you'll get.

 

Warped rotors are a B*tch. I've tried every secret out there for helping to prevent it. I still get it with cross drilled so that is not a for sure cure. I however have never had a really expensive nice pair because I was too worried about them warping too. I'm very hard on them though. Tapio's suggesting of autozone rotors is a good one in my opinion. They are inexpensive and will replace them too if they warp. Resurfacing is only a temporary solution. It will make them feel better initially, but eventually it will come back from my experience. I'm near the point of just getting new rotors every spring when I put the summer wheels on. Some people don't have any problems, don't know why. I think living in WI the extreme temperature changes they sometimes experience is what does them in.

Just my 2 cents.

 

whats a good way of telling if you rotors are wraped. My car used to make the grinding harmonics and just replaced pads and sound was gone. thought it was my rotors..anybody???

 

Umm, cross drilled rotors are actually MORE prone to warping....

Also...if I remember reading one of the old maximadriver.com tips...pulling up your hand brake right after heavy braking will cause warpage.

 

And going through a car wash with hot rotors is one of the most common ways they can get warped without even thinking they're getting abused.

 

bump,,

but wat a sure way off teeling if rotors are warped.

 

1) Slotted and cross-drilled rotors on street cars are for show. 99% of the drivers can't put these things to use on the street.

2) Cross-drilled rotors are very prone to cracking and warping.

3) Don't buy cheap rotors. You get what you pay for. Bendix or Brembo replacement rotors (excellent quality) are available at most auto stores. Expect to pay $40-50 each.

4) Replace your brake pads when replacing rotors.

5) Do the work yourself, learn, and save a whole bunch of money. Most shops will charge you $300-400 for this work that will only take them 1 hour with basic tools. You could buy brand new rotors ($100), good pads ($30), Chilton's manual ($15), 2 ton jack ($70), jack stands ($15), socket wrench and full socket set 10mm-19mm ($40), torque wrench ($50), shop light ($20), and a C-clamp ($5) and you'd STILL be ahead of what the shop will charge you.


Dave

 

Buy the non X drilled and slotted Brembo rotors from WWW.NOPI.COM
They cost about $28 ea plus shipping. Use Raybestos Quiet Stop Ceramic pad from WWW.ROCKAUTO.COM , they are $44.75 plus shipping and you will be a happy camper!!!!

 

I didn't check, but why are those rotors so cheap?

I have set up a group deal for slotted, stock sized rotors for all years of Maximas, but they're a bit more pricey. I do believe that Rotora has a quality product though.

Also, I agree with the post by TooMax...have you ever washed your car as you got home from stop and go traffic, and parked your car on your driveway? First, you pull up the hand brake which could possible create warping if you were braking very harshly and secondly, the cold water from the hose will definately ruin the rotors! I always make sure that I can touch the rotor without getting burned. That's just me though.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by TurDz
[B]

I didn't check, but why are those rotors so cheap?

The fronts are cheaper than the rears. They are genuine Brembos, red box white writing and NOPI is a class act! I'd go for it!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by karguy
[B]Umm..I checked...and they're not $44 or whatever you say...

Click Me

I think the group deal going on has a better deal.