Can someone quantify the improvement of 300ZX brakes over stock?
Can someone quantify the improvement of 300ZX brakes over stock?
Since no one reads the autocross forum, I was wondering exactly how well the 300ZX brakes work over stock. Specifically does anyone with 300ZX brakes have an autocross or road racing time with the brakes?
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
Re: Can someone quantify the improvement of 300ZX brakes over stock?
Originally posted by xHypex
Since no one reads the autocross forum, I was wondering exactly how well the 300ZX brakes work over stock. Specifically does anyone with 300ZX brakes have an autocross or road racing time with the brakes?
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
Since no one reads the autocross forum, I was wondering exactly how well the 300ZX brakes work over stock. Specifically does anyone with 300ZX brakes have an autocross or road racing time with the brakes?
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
Originally posted by xHypex
Is it considerably easier to lock them up?
-hype
Is it considerably easier to lock them up?
-hype
Originally posted by slammed95
You could also get the Wilwodd BB kit. It's around $1k, and you get a larger selection of rotors, pads, and calipers. They are also new parts.
You could also get the Wilwodd BB kit. It's around $1k, and you get a larger selection of rotors, pads, and calipers. They are also new parts.
I don't do any of that kind of racing. But it gave me a difference of 15-16 feet stopping distance from 60-0 from stock. With no lock up (I have ABS) I have a write-up on it on my homepage (page 2).
And great stopping at high speeds (top end) when someone pulls in front of me on the expressway, with no brake fade.
And great stopping at high speeds (top end) when someone pulls in front of me on the expressway, with no brake fade.
I've heard that the 300ZX rotor upgrade doesn't do a whole lot for stopping distances, but resists fade much more effectively, they are much larger heatsinks than stock rotors.
LatinMax said 15ft, which is an INCREDIBLE difference over stock. Usually big brake kits shave 5-10 feet of stock stopping distances. And I'm talking about going from like 11" rotors to 13 and 14" rotors and calipers with more pistons, not just 10.5 to 12.2 or whatever it is that the 300ZX upgrade is (plus the 4 pots). I'd be interested to know how LatinMax quantified his stopping distance delta. If I were to venture a guess, I'd bet that the stopping distance change had more to do with going from one pad to another, rather than the larger rotor and 4 pot caliper. Of course we don't know which pads he had and has now.
As for you being unhappy with your setup... well that might be because Axxis Metalmasters suck. They are a decent street pad but not up to even the task of autoXing, which is relatively easy on brakes. Don't even think about using them on a road course unless you have a death wish.
LatinMax said 15ft, which is an INCREDIBLE difference over stock. Usually big brake kits shave 5-10 feet of stock stopping distances. And I'm talking about going from like 11" rotors to 13 and 14" rotors and calipers with more pistons, not just 10.5 to 12.2 or whatever it is that the 300ZX upgrade is (plus the 4 pots). I'd be interested to know how LatinMax quantified his stopping distance delta. If I were to venture a guess, I'd bet that the stopping distance change had more to do with going from one pad to another, rather than the larger rotor and 4 pot caliper. Of course we don't know which pads he had and has now.
As for you being unhappy with your setup... well that might be because Axxis Metalmasters suck. They are a decent street pad but not up to even the task of autoXing, which is relatively easy on brakes. Don't even think about using them on a road course unless you have a death wish.
I had all factory setup before the 300zx mod with everything in the write-up. I measure stopping distance 40-0 & 60-0 and did better than the stock 40-0 stock at the new 60-0.
Hell I still have the spray paint marks in the back of my subdivision where I tested it.
Thanks for the tip on the pads...what do you recommend?
Hell I still have the spray paint marks in the back of my subdivision where I tested it.
Thanks for the tip on the pads...what do you recommend?
Originally posted by Nealoc187
As for you being unhappy with your setup... well that might be because Axxis Metalmasters suck. They are a decent street pad but not up to even the task of autoXing, which is relatively easy on brakes. Don't even think about using them on a road course unless you have a death wish.
As for you being unhappy with your setup... well that might be because Axxis Metalmasters suck. They are a decent street pad but not up to even the task of autoXing, which is relatively easy on brakes. Don't even think about using them on a road course unless you have a death wish.
-hype
Im not sure how thick the rotors are on the other "real" BB kits.........but my 300ZX ones are 30mm...........they are thick!
JeffK noticed them right off the bat. Makes me wonder if smaller but thicker rotors dissapate heat just as good as larger thinner ones, making them just as good? Who knows..........Im happy with them thats for sure. They will put you thru the windshield if your unprepared and stomp on them. Regardless of ABS.
Plus they look cool!
JeffK noticed them right off the bat. Makes me wonder if smaller but thicker rotors dissapate heat just as good as larger thinner ones, making them just as good? Who knows..........Im happy with them thats for sure. They will put you thru the windshield if your unprepared and stomp on them. Regardless of ABS.
Plus they look cool!
Originally posted by Aaron95SE
Im not sure how thick the rotors are on the other "real" BB kits.........but my 300ZX ones are 30mm...........they are thick!
JeffK noticed them right off the bat. Makes me wonder if smaller but thicker rotors dissapate heat just as good as larger thinner ones, making them just as good? Who knows..........Im happy with them thats for sure. They will put you thru the windshield if your unprepared and stomp on them. Regardless of ABS.
Plus they look cool!
Im not sure how thick the rotors are on the other "real" BB kits.........but my 300ZX ones are 30mm...........they are thick!
JeffK noticed them right off the bat. Makes me wonder if smaller but thicker rotors dissapate heat just as good as larger thinner ones, making them just as good? Who knows..........Im happy with them thats for sure. They will put you thru the windshield if your unprepared and stomp on them. Regardless of ABS.
Plus they look cool!
I had all factory setup before the 300zx mod with everything in the write-up. I measure stopping distance 40-0 & 60-0 and did better than the stock 40-0 stock at the new 60-0.
Hell I still have the spray paint marks in the back of my subdivision where I tested it.
Thanks for the tip on the pads...what do you recommend?
Hell I still have the spray paint marks in the back of my subdivision where I tested it.
Thanks for the tip on the pads...what do you recommend?
As for pads there are tons of options. I'm not sure what your goals are. Lets assume agressive street + autoX is your goal, Hawk HPS are a good pad for that. The have good cold bite and can stand up to quick bursts of heat well, such as autoX sessions. I use these pads for street driving and AutoX.
When I go to the road course I swap them out for Hawk HP-Plus, which is a more race oriented pad. They can be a little hairy on the street for the first stop or two. They don't bite when they are cold and it can give you the
face haha. On the track once they are hot they work great and I haven't gotten them to go away yet, but my next set of track pads will be even more agressive.BTW I'm using stock sized slotted rotors, but switching back to OEM (non slotted) rotors with my next brake work.
Originally posted by Nealoc187
Surface area determines dissipation rate, volume determines the amount of heat a heatsink can hold.
Latin, that's cool that you actually measured it. The only problem I see with that is if you started braking a few feet early or late then it could throw off the results, but doing it at home you can't do much else to test it without sophisticated equipment so I commend your effort. Did you average a bunch of runs or just do one run each or what?
As for pads there are tons of options. I'm not sure what your goals are. Lets assume agressive street + autoX is your goal, Hawk HPS are a good pad for that. The have good cold bite and can stand up to quick bursts of heat well, such as autoX sessions. I use these pads for street driving and AutoX.
When I go to the road course I swap them out for Hawk HP-Plus, which is a more race oriented pad. They can be a little hairy on the street for the first stop or two. They don't bite when they are cold and it can give you the
face haha. On the track once they are hot they work great and I haven't gotten them to go away yet, but my next set of track pads will be even more agressive.
BTW I'm using stock sized slotted rotors, but switching back to OEM (non slotted) rotors with my next brake work.
Surface area determines dissipation rate, volume determines the amount of heat a heatsink can hold.
Latin, that's cool that you actually measured it. The only problem I see with that is if you started braking a few feet early or late then it could throw off the results, but doing it at home you can't do much else to test it without sophisticated equipment so I commend your effort. Did you average a bunch of runs or just do one run each or what?
As for pads there are tons of options. I'm not sure what your goals are. Lets assume agressive street + autoX is your goal, Hawk HPS are a good pad for that. The have good cold bite and can stand up to quick bursts of heat well, such as autoX sessions. I use these pads for street driving and AutoX.
When I go to the road course I swap them out for Hawk HP-Plus, which is a more race oriented pad. They can be a little hairy on the street for the first stop or two. They don't bite when they are cold and it can give you the
face haha. On the track once they are hot they work great and I haven't gotten them to go away yet, but my next set of track pads will be even more agressive.BTW I'm using stock sized slotted rotors, but switching back to OEM (non slotted) rotors with my next brake work.
Thanks for the info.
Re: Can someone quantify the improvement of 300ZX brakes over stock?
It's more of a fade thing. When I first did my swap, I didn't notice that much difference. A little more braking power and that was about it. I went from a stock maxima set up to a stock 300ZX setup, the rotors, pads and calipers were all OEM. Then a few months later I swapped out the pads for Axis metal masters and Brembo drilled rotors. That made a huge difference. But if you just get upgraded pads and rotors for the maxima brakes, you're probably going to get close to the stopping distance.
The only measurable difference is there is no brake fade. I used to have terrible brake fade with the factory setup which is the whole reason I switched. I used to drive really hard on the brakes. The 300ZX brakes have practically no brake fade, at least none I've noticed.
I'm looking into going with a prototype Rotora setup now. 13" rotors, 4 piston calipers. Or if I can get the dang magazine feature, I can get the SSBC 6 piston BB kit.
The only measurable difference is there is no brake fade. I used to have terrible brake fade with the factory setup which is the whole reason I switched. I used to drive really hard on the brakes. The 300ZX brakes have practically no brake fade, at least none I've noticed.
I'm looking into going with a prototype Rotora setup now. 13" rotors, 4 piston calipers. Or if I can get the dang magazine feature, I can get the SSBC 6 piston BB kit.
Originally posted by xHypex
Since no one reads the autocross forum, I was wondering exactly how well the 300ZX brakes work over stock. Specifically does anyone with 300ZX brakes have an autocross or road racing time with the brakes?
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
Since no one reads the autocross forum, I was wondering exactly how well the 300ZX brakes work over stock. Specifically does anyone with 300ZX brakes have an autocross or road racing time with the brakes?
"I run DSP, and I'm not incredibly impressed with my brakes (slotted rotors with Axxis Metal Masters and SS lines with Ford DOT4 fluid). I know the 300ZX upgrade isn't too expensive, so I was wondering if anyone had any experience with the brakes on a course of any sort (autox or road racing)." from Any autocrossers here with 300ZX brakes?
-hype
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