Best synthetic oil to get?
Best synthetic oil to get?
i'm due for an oil change and i'm going synthetic for the first time ever. I'm gonna try install myself. Anyone got a write up? it seems self explanator except for where u unplug from underneath the car.
I just need to know that and the best or most recommended synthetic oil to get for the money and how much i need and best oil filter to get. And best place to get it.
As far as directions, i see it as:
1) lift car
2) open oil cover from up top
3) put pan under car
4) drain oil
5) take filter off, put new filter on
6) close plug used to drain from underneath
7) fill with new oil and close
*****************
just one OTHER question. When the car is lifted, wont it pour out at an angle? so isnt there a chance i may mix the new oil wit left over old oil?
I just need to know that and the best or most recommended synthetic oil to get for the money and how much i need and best oil filter to get. And best place to get it.
As far as directions, i see it as:
1) lift car
2) open oil cover from up top
3) put pan under car
4) drain oil
5) take filter off, put new filter on
6) close plug used to drain from underneath
7) fill with new oil and close
*****************
just one OTHER question. When the car is lifted, wont it pour out at an angle? so isnt there a chance i may mix the new oil wit left over old oil?

also, frank's website is your friend. www.motorvate.ca ... pic by pic instructions.
before going synthetic, u should flush your engine.
filter: nissan (the model # that starts w/ a 9 ... can't remmeber the rest. the newer one is not as good...)
oil: i PREFER mobil 1... why? i dunno, i just know that it's been put in the car ever since it was bought brand new 7 years ago.
depending on how wide your oil catch pan is, you might need to put the plug back in before working on the filter. Also, have a can of brake cleaner (get the one that's safe for rubber and plastic) handy. When you're all done, spray the bottom of the oil pan down and any other gunk down there. It's a cheap and easy way to track leaks.
Jae
Jae
Re: Best synthetic oil to get?
Originally posted by meccanoble
5) take filter off, put new filter on
5) take filter off, put new filter on
Mecca are u always looking for a way to fukc up ur car.
U have over 130K miles, why da fukc would u wanna switch to synthetic?
Ur car might start leaking oil and sh iT. It drives perfect with normal oil so why fock with it???
Damn I hate to see my car broken.
U have over 130K miles, why da fukc would u wanna switch to synthetic?
Ur car might start leaking oil and sh iT. It drives perfect with normal oil so why fock with it???
Damn I hate to see my car broken.
why lift the car? it takes more time 
you dont have to open the oil filler cap, it just prevents the "glugging" when the steady flow of oil comes pouring out.
I normally use Valvoline or Castrol for my oil changes, and AmsOil for everything else. Today I flushed the Durangos transfer case and filled it with 1.2l of AmsOil ATF, and now when I drive in circles in 4wd, my inside rear wheel squeels, while before it would just chirp (btw, it is locked).
MrGone

you dont have to open the oil filler cap, it just prevents the "glugging" when the steady flow of oil comes pouring out.
I normally use Valvoline or Castrol for my oil changes, and AmsOil for everything else. Today I flushed the Durangos transfer case and filled it with 1.2l of AmsOil ATF, and now when I drive in circles in 4wd, my inside rear wheel squeels, while before it would just chirp (btw, it is locked).
MrGone
Originally posted by 190hpKiLLA
Mecca are u always looking for a way to fukc up ur car.
U have over 130K miles, why da fukc would u wanna switch to synthetic?
Ur car might start leaking oil and sh iT. It drives perfect with normal oil so why fock with it???
Damn I hate to see my car broken.
Mecca are u always looking for a way to fukc up ur car.
U have over 130K miles, why da fukc would u wanna switch to synthetic?
Ur car might start leaking oil and sh iT. It drives perfect with normal oil so why fock with it???
Damn I hate to see my car broken.
Ignorance to the benefits of synthetic amazes me yet again...
Originally posted by DigitalTexan2u
Ignorance to the benefits of synthetic amazes me yet again...
Ignorance to the benefits of synthetic amazes me yet again...
Originally posted by nadir_s
he has a point... switching to synthetic which is thinner oil does have that slight risk of running leaks on high mileage cars.
he has a point... switching to synthetic which is thinner oil does have that slight risk of running leaks on high mileage cars.
Car A with regular motor oil used forever will leak oil before car B with synthetic.
Originally posted by DigitalTexan2u
Conventional oils actually shrink gaskets over time...synthetics do not. Ever notice how many cars have oil leaks? Around gaskets?
Car A with regular motor oil used forever will leak oil before car B with synthetic.
Conventional oils actually shrink gaskets over time...synthetics do not. Ever notice how many cars have oil leaks? Around gaskets?
Car A with regular motor oil used forever will leak oil before car B with synthetic.
Originally posted by nadir_s
yeah ok but HIS CAR has been running on regular oil for 130k miles... so his gaskets have shrunk over the time. NOW he puts synthetic which is thinner (can seep out quicker)... get it?
yeah ok but HIS CAR has been running on regular oil for 130k miles... so his gaskets have shrunk over the time. NOW he puts synthetic which is thinner (can seep out quicker)... get it?
Got it?
Originally posted by DigitalTexan2u
do some research...synthetics actally permiate gaskets and don't break them down. Over time they will cause gaskets to maintain their original thickness...or possibly cause them to expand somewhat.
Got it?
do some research...synthetics actally permiate gaskets and don't break them down. Over time they will cause gaskets to maintain their original thickness...or possibly cause them to expand somewhat.
Got it?
alright 1 more time...
130k miles of regular oil = "shrunk" gaskets (according to what you are saying)
synthetic oil = thinner oil
shrunk gaskets + thinner oil = POSSIBLE LEAKS
and that is why people say you risk having leaks when switching high mileage cars to synthetic oil. You've explained the gasket shrinking theory yourself. Now apply your own logic to mecca's situation. Simple as that.
Originally posted by StygianMax
So do you mean to say that a synthetic 5W30 is thinner than a dinogoo 5W30?
So do you mean to say that a synthetic 5W30 is thinner than a dinogoo 5W30?
hey guys, i went through the synthetic change, actually got 10w30 because of the hot season. The shop recommended it. If i do see some leakage, i'll switch back unless u guys recommend something else but i have faith in the car. 190hpkilla, i wont let anything bad happen to MY car
. I am trying to do something better for it.
. I am trying to do something better for it.
Originally posted by Jeff92se
Your kidding right? How long have you been on here?! geez
Your kidding right? How long have you been on here?! geez
. I never researched it because i never did it.
Just to clarify:
If you run dino for a long enough period of time, a false seal of sludge/slime will build up allowing your seals to dry up and shrink/crack. Then when you switch to synthetic, the added detergents in the synthetic will break down the false seal and ANY oil will leak out.
The viscosity of dino vs. synthetic doesn't cause leaks. Old myth.
If you run dino for a long enough period of time, a false seal of sludge/slime will build up allowing your seals to dry up and shrink/crack. Then when you switch to synthetic, the added detergents in the synthetic will break down the false seal and ANY oil will leak out.
The viscosity of dino vs. synthetic doesn't cause leaks. Old myth.
If switching to synth is bad cuz it's thinner, why can't you use a thicker oil? Mobil1 is offered in 10w-30 and 15w-50.
My 1993 Altima had 155k miles on it, all crappy dino oil from Firestone from previous owner. When I got the car, I switched over to mobil1 ...idles better, smoother acceleration, and possible improved fuel efficiency. No leaks either.
Jae
My 1993 Altima had 155k miles on it, all crappy dino oil from Firestone from previous owner. When I got the car, I switched over to mobil1 ...idles better, smoother acceleration, and possible improved fuel efficiency. No leaks either.
Jae
Originally posted by ThurzNite
If switching to synth is bad cuz it's thinner, why can't you use a thicker oil? Mobil1 is offered in 10w-30 and 15w-50.
My 1993 Altima had 155k miles on it, all crappy dino oil from Firestone from previous owner. When I got the car, I switched over to mobil1 ...idles better, smoother acceleration, and possible improved fuel efficiency. No leaks either.
Jae
If switching to synth is bad cuz it's thinner, why can't you use a thicker oil? Mobil1 is offered in 10w-30 and 15w-50.
My 1993 Altima had 155k miles on it, all crappy dino oil from Firestone from previous owner. When I got the car, I switched over to mobil1 ...idles better, smoother acceleration, and possible improved fuel efficiency. No leaks either.
Jae
Did you see my "false seal" post above?
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Just to clarify:
If you run dino for a long enough period of time, a false seal of sludge/slime will build up allowing your seals to dry up and shrink/crack. Then when you switch to synthetic, the added detergents in the synthetic will break down the false seal and ANY oil will leak out.
Just to clarify:
If you run dino for a long enough period of time, a false seal of sludge/slime will build up allowing your seals to dry up and shrink/crack. Then when you switch to synthetic, the added detergents in the synthetic will break down the false seal and ANY oil will leak out.
The viscosity of dino vs. synthetic doesn't cause leaks. Old myth.
Leaks from synthetics are because their molecules are more uniform in size vs all over the place in dino. Nadir, synthetics are not thinner or thicker than their respective dino oils. 5w30 is 5w30. No matter the type.
Originally posted by meccanoble
waht does viscosity mean?
waht does viscosity mean?
Fluid density is something completely different! Viscosity and density are not related.
This is the good stuff I learned from my gr. 4 son who had a science fair topic on this.
Originally posted by StygianMax
Does the drying of the gaskets happen from the "non sealed side" i.e. outside? As you describe it, it sounds to me that there an "insulating" barrier that prevents the oil from keeping the gasket moist and pliable.
Does the drying of the gaskets happen from the "non sealed side" i.e. outside? As you describe it, it sounds to me that there an "insulating" barrier that prevents the oil from keeping the gasket moist and pliable.
At 130K miles, I'd stick with regular dino. The increased longevity of the synthetic at that point is probably not going to offset the cost of paying a mechanic to replace the main seals.
Synthetic is great stuff to PREVENT wear on engine parts, but by 130K it's pretty much too late to make a difference in engine life.
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Yes, the rubber seal is "blocked" from contact with the crankcase oil by the sludge false seal. Oil keeps a seal pliable and even swollen, but once it dries up, it shrivels and cracks. Then once it comes in contact with ANY oil, it will not provide a seal.
At 130K miles, I'd stick with regular dino. The increased longevity of the synthetic at that point is probably not going to offset the cost of paying a mechanic to replace the main seals.
Synthetic is great stuff to PREVENT wear on engine parts, but by 130K it's pretty much too late to make a difference in engine life.
Yes, the rubber seal is "blocked" from contact with the crankcase oil by the sludge false seal. Oil keeps a seal pliable and even swollen, but once it dries up, it shrivels and cracks. Then once it comes in contact with ANY oil, it will not provide a seal.
At 130K miles, I'd stick with regular dino. The increased longevity of the synthetic at that point is probably not going to offset the cost of paying a mechanic to replace the main seals.
Synthetic is great stuff to PREVENT wear on engine parts, but by 130K it's pretty much too late to make a difference in engine life.
Do you what a car does when he is bored? Scratches his ballz.
Mecca if u have nothing to do go scratch ur ballz and not ur car.
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Yes, the rubber seal is "blocked" from contact with the crankcase oil by the sludge false seal. Oil keeps a seal pliable and even swollen, but once it dries up, it shrivels and cracks. Then once it comes in contact with ANY oil, it will not provide a seal.
At 130K miles, I'd stick with regular dino. The increased longevity of the synthetic at that point is probably not going to offset the cost of paying a mechanic to replace the main seals.
Synthetic is great stuff to PREVENT wear on engine parts, but by 130K it's pretty much too late to make a difference in engine life.
Yes, the rubber seal is "blocked" from contact with the crankcase oil by the sludge false seal. Oil keeps a seal pliable and even swollen, but once it dries up, it shrivels and cracks. Then once it comes in contact with ANY oil, it will not provide a seal.
At 130K miles, I'd stick with regular dino. The increased longevity of the synthetic at that point is probably not going to offset the cost of paying a mechanic to replace the main seals.
Synthetic is great stuff to PREVENT wear on engine parts, but by 130K it's pretty much too late to make a difference in engine life.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
Jan 4, 2024 07:01 PM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
Jun 6, 2017 02:01 PM
05RLS2
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
4
Apr 14, 2016 11:49 AM





