I decided to try this oil after reading rave reviews by VQ35 peeps all over the inter-webs. My I35 would burn about .5-1 qt every 6000 miles on synthetic 5W30, sometimes more if driven a lot on the highway. After a recent 2000 mile road trip, the level on the dipstick hasn't budged at all with the 0W40. The engine seems quieter also, especially in the morning. Haven't noticed an effect on gas mileage but we'll see in the fall when winter blends come out. All-in-all, I'm pretty impressed by this stuff. Hopefully it continues to hold up well for my 7500 mile oil change interval.

 

Tastes great, less filling.

 

great to hear that, Im trying to find a good brand of oil myself for first oil change, was thinking of trying redline esther oil but dont know if its worth the price.

 

I've been a believer since my first go at it.

I use Castrol since the pricing and availability for me is a lot better.

I'm also going to that giant M1-105 filter on my next oil change.

 

That filter is for pansies and is small.

pl-14619. 200 square inches of media.

Even the 14610 is a little larger than the m-105 and it only has 92 square inches. Purolators are cheap. I bought a bunch of pure ones for about 3.50 each (advance auto)
The 14619 is also rated 99.9% @ 20 microns. 105 is rated 99.2% at 25 microns.

 

What oil filter do you guys recommend? doing my first oil change with castrol synthethic 10w30. Is it the mobile M-110 or the M-105?

 

Good to hear that! I just bought a 5L jug of Mobil 1 0W-30. It should have the "same" properties as the recommended 5W-30 at normal operating temperatures while being a bit thinner/better during cold starts. Would 0W-40 be even better for my 3.0L engine ?

 

PL14459 for the 3.0
Cheaper and better than mobil. No big codes anymore, but you can get 20% off little orders from advance (unless you want to order several, then you can save 30-40%). 5.59 before tax.

m1-105 if you are getting a mobil (only reason is for oil change deal, imo).

 

I have the 3.5 so are they the same filters?

 

Wait a moment: PL14459 does NOT fit the 3.0L engine according to the Advanced Autoparts site. In addition, this filter - being one of the "orange" line - my not be suitable for synthetic oil; they have the "blue" line for that.
What gives? - What's right/wrong?

 

Stores only use stock size as reference. M1-105 "doesn't fit", either if you believe them

The 14459 is just a little shorter and fatter than stock (now nissan says m1-108...lol, that think is a tiny joke). I use them on VQ30, QR25 and all of the honda motors.

The blue filters have synthetic media and are for extended drain intervals like 10-15k. I use the normal sized "orange" ones for up to 8k.

 

Yes, you can use the 14459 (or m1 105), but if you have 14619 in your area, it will fit

For people that do almost all hwy, I use the 14619 for 10k OCI with 0w40 mobil/castrol.

I like to stay a little conservative on filter life and OCI, since I'm obviously not sending samples to blackstone.
I have no doubt with great oil and testing that you can go longer, though.

 

Check out Bob is the Oil Guy. They have a wealth of info about the properties of different oil weights.

Are you burning oil? That's the only time I'd consider using a heavier oil, even though M1 0W40 is supposedly one of the "lighter" 40 weights.

Purolator has revamped their oil filters recently. The old ones had issues with the pleats tearing. Time will tell how the new ones fare.

 

I switch to m1 0-40w but for the winter I'm using m1 0-30w.

 

So the 14459 is the purolator brand/part number? Wanting to go with the m-105 but if the 14459 is better and a less money, than im all for it. Im using castrol 10-30 synthetic. So i usually change the oil at about 4K to 5K intervals on most cars i have.

 

Yes, purolator pure one. 4-5k is probably too soon. Even with city driving, 6k should be safe. Hell, people use castrol syn blend with half *** filters and have excellent UOAs after 5k mi of city.

If you drive hwy at all, I would go quite a bit longer. The only exceptions would be if you drive the **** out of it with a lot of short trips (or cold climate).
Search for some VQ35 UOA. You'll see tons of people changing it early and the oil is still very good. It's actually hard to find long OCI intervals, since it's a performance motor. Mobil 30 weight doesn't fare well, though, b/c it's pretty lackluster. Idk why people use it. It's just not good.
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html lots of info in here and looks like these guys are driving hard

Also, the reason a lot of us like 40 weight is b/c if it shears down, then it's still a heavy 30 AND the 0W40s (castrol/mobil at least) are group IV base stock oils (also GC 0w30).
I bought a bunch of the pennzoil pure plus 0w/5w-40 oil this winter ($2/qt). It's a good alternative to castrol/mobil. The regular mobil 1 and castrol syn is group III and not worth the money, imo (castrol does perform well though), when the other stuff is the real deal and the same price (or 2 bucks/qt LOL).

Do some research and see what you find. I'm just giving my thoughts. Everything is very variable.

You know what's scary? People that believe you can follow the manuf's advice and drive 5k+ on ****ty frams and cheap dino oil

 

thanks for that info, I recently got an oil change and dont know what brand filter they put on there.

 

Old thread I know, but OP still using M1 0w40? Any ill effects on the engine?

 

Are you planning on using a thicker oil?

I use a 10w40 or 15w40 to control my low RPM rattle. On 5w30, it rattles nonstop even on the highway. It helps with the burning as well.

 

if your going to run a 40 weight oil just go with Shell Rotella T5 it's 5W-40. I run the Fram Ultra XG7317 oil filter..

 

sounds like a tensioner issue

They changed the additives pack a while back. It's not what it used to be. And of course too thick when it's cold. 0w40s seem to be the cheapest you can get, too (especially on sale).

I ran 5w50 in one of the Gs for about 30k miles, but it was a junkyard engine...and then 12 psi at 23 degrees finished her off LMAO. Stupid stock ecu randomly decided to increase timing by 3 degrees. Uprev is out, gonna have to be haltech, I guess.
If someone has an eater of questionable quality, then I would try 5w50.

 

I'm leaning towards a defective tensioner and/or timing chain guides.
There's been a lot of speculation on this rattle issue.

 

Rotella T5 works good in my bike so I have no problem running it in my car. Shell also makes a Synthetic Rotella for gas trucks that come in 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30.

another oil that I like is the Penzoil Platinum made from natural gas...