Ok, I did a search and nothing came up in the 5th gens. I had a stellar night at the 1/8th mile track this past Saturday night. I got in about 12 runs. A bunch of Mustang GT's went home with their feelings hurt. But on the topic...

I have a noticable 'clunck' coming from the engine compartment when I put any power and engage the clutch in 1st gear. I don't hear it as much (if at all) in the subsequent gears. Now, the first thing is that my FSTB is hitting (which it hasn't in the past unless it has shifted) but this can't be the case, I removed it and it is still making the same noise. I have visually inspected the engine mounts, but can't tell any problems.

Has anyone with a 2k2/2k3 had problems with their engine mounts and had them replaced? Or could this be another problem I am overlooking? If I have to have them replaced, is there an aftermarket motor mount that is better that the factory mounts?

My Max will be going into the Nissan service department later in the week. I would appreciate the heads up if anyone had any insight.

Thanks!!!

 

SO............what where your times?

 

I will post over on 1/4 & 1/8th mile so this can stay on topic.

 

You must have had mad wheel hop at the track huh? I could be wrong but I thought 2002 and up had electronic engine mounts that would set the check light off if something was wrong with them.

So how did you do at teh track?

 

I have done it enough to minimize my wheel hop. It is all in the launch RPM and front tire pressure. (i.e. 2500 rpm and 22.5 psi front).

 

I blew the motor mount on the right side of the engine (if you are looking into the engine bay from the front of the car) and the engine rattles against the frame a little bit when I rev it..

 

Did you do it drag racing? Did you get it fixed under warranty?

Thanks for the input... :-)

 

You know, we all complain about dealers being so suspicious. They see a car with even a slight mod, and they want to suggest that your problem is from abuse.

We're never going to get over this problem until people start taking responsibility for breaking their cars while racing them. Your cheating is just hurting the rest of us Maxima owners, and I don't like it. If you want to put your car through that, YOU need to be prepared to pay up--don't expect Nissan (and the rest of us) to pay for you.

 

Thanks for your insightful post! It may be engine mounts, it might not. If it is, and there is an aftermarket bushing I can put in to replace it, I will, and pay for it myself. That is another reason to post.

Ok, anyone else have any info on this subject??

Thanks.

 

Well honestly if you are going to continue racing then then you need to get urethane motor mounts. Taking it back to the dealer and getting it replaced and then going to the track and breaking it again is going to be time consuming and will get you no where. If you want better times, you NEED stiffer mounts. I changed my mounts after I broke both of mine, and now the shifts under boost feel solid. Yea there is a bit more vibration during idle, but it aint that bad.

Dixit

 

it was either emax02 or dmb(frankencar owner)..that had a problem with the engine mounts.

contact them i think they know something about or even aftermarekt engine mounts.

 

My salesman mentioned something about electronic engine mounts. I just figgured he pulled it out of hisass. What does an electronic engine mount do?

 

I had my 2k2 and i broke it at the 1/4mile.. it was a hairline fracture and the dealer replaced it...

Its a really soft mount so i suggest you take it easy on the launch. I too had the same problem after the 1/4mile with clunky on the first gear..

ED

 

You dont have to, you can just buy the 95-99 manual motor mounts from Cattman. They will fit just fine on the 2k2 6spd or auto.

Dixit

 

I have a 2k GLE and i just had the motor mounts replaced.. It was so retarded.. After i turned off the engine, i just heard this electronic kind of sound for about 1 minute.. Took it to the dealer and they kept me there for 6 hours and charged me 550 dollars. There is a TSB on it but didn't realize it till after i got it done. Thank god i have a extended warranty and only ended up paying 50 bucks (deductible). So sorry if this doesnt pertain to your situation but just wanted to post something..

 

Nah, no racing. Im takin her to the dealer tomorrow and we'll see what they say......

 

why the hell does tennessee have a 1/8 mile track.. My driveway is longer.

 

Beech Bend is but an hour away...and it's a 1/4 mile track...

 

hey, i didnt know, whats the directions from nashville?

 

The way I see it is if I'm going to pay 30k for a car with a 3yr/36,000 mile warranty I'm going to drive it however I like and if it breaks they will fix it because thats what a bumper to bumper means.. Do they care if you leave your car in a garage for 3 yrs with no miles on it then one day you take it out and something happens to it?? NO.. The answer you'll get is it's not under warranty.. I beat my car because thats what I'm paying for.. Something breaks they are going to fix it know matter what it takes unless it's a mod that I got like suspension and **** like that.. If they build these car a little bit better maybe they won't break.. Just my .02 !!!

 

You beat your car? Im going to have to report you to the local PD.

You make it sound dirty when you say you beat it because its what your paying for..



On a serious note, I am in agreement. If you pay for a car, use it. You buy running shoes... run in them. Same deal... dont wuss out.. if you want to do that, go get a civic.

 

Yep... I beat it like a town *****!!!!!

 

Well, I stopped by our local Nissan dealer and told them my issues and I will bring it in tomorrow for the following:

#1 Bose HU cutting out on left side (second time in, they couldn't get it to repeat the problem last time)

#2 Valet Key needs programming, will not start car.

#3 Possible engine mount failures.

I will let you know what was done possibly tomorrow afternoon.

 

You made my point for me. Running shoes are for running, and race cars are for racing. A Nissan Maxima is NOT a race car, and it should not be used for it. If you took those running shoes on a moutain-climbing expedition and they blew out, the manufacturer should not have to pay for them. Likewise, Nissan should not have to pay for damage caused by people racing passenger sedans. And my biggest problem is that Nissan will not absorb the cost--it will show up in the price tags of every future model being sold, which means we all have to pay for it.

 

What kind of sound do you get? I mean I have this creaking/clicking sound that comes up everytime I step on the gas a little and let off. It started happening after they did the clutch TSB.

 

Please tell me when Nissan Maxima's ever want down in price???? But it's ok to take your car back to get repairs under so called normal driving condition?? Say you're pulling out into incoming traffic and you nail it and your motor mount breaks.. This is acceptable???

 

I also have that creaking noise, but this isn't it. You can physically feel and audibly hear this thump or thud. WHatever is hitting is large enough (mass wise) to shake the car so I am assuming engine. We'll see tomorrow. I will also ask about the clutch creaking noise.

 

Okay all this stupidness..

For starters the PRICES OF MAXIMAS have not changed at least from my knowledge from 95-2003 (slight hike in 2004)... Its been very consistent year after year..

Second, why do you defend Nissan not covering racing? What do you mean by running shoes? That is the dumbest analogy ever.. Think about it.. you take an S2000 out on the track, it breaks is it covered on the warranty? HELL NO>.. Whether it be an S2000, BMW M5 or a maxima, it clearly states that damage from racing is not covered.

Now i would understand defending nissan in the case of if they were a manufacturer that would fix the defects on its car in a timely manner and also a hassle free manner, but think about it.. WHERE ARE THEY RANKED IN CUSTOMER SERVICE? 17th? All i say is *** nissan, and they better fix everything i ask them to fix, because they never take claim on defects that are not as a result of racing, so if they want to warranty little things like engine mounts? So be it..

ED

 

All I'm saying is a warranty is a warranty.. Something break and it's under warranty they should fix it.. I here some org member say my dealer give me know hassles.. I wish I could say the same!!!! I still have hood shake on the highway and it's the third time they tried to fix it.. Each time I leave I ask is it fixed... Sure enough they say Yep It's fixed... I told them about my clutch problem and they say we called nissan and they said they have no fix for your problem and then I see the damm TSB on it I'm like is this 4 reel or what... All I know is I love my Max but I don't think when I sell it down the rode that I'll buy another....

 

i've blown the engine mounts on my 2k2 6-spd twice from romping on it a little too hard. we will be selling poly mounts very soon that help out with that A LOT, mine where prolly one of the best things i ever did to my car. Nissan might replace them but in the future if you will continue racing you might want to think about poly ones. Thanks.

 

how hard are they to install?? and how many are there??

 

The install should take no more than 2hrs if you have an impact wrench, if not then at least a 1/2" breaker bar. There are two mounts. The best would be to drive your car onto ramps instead of using jack stands since it is safer and more room under to work with when two people are under there.

Basically you can remove the entire cross brace that holds the engine (but there are still two more mounts that are holding the engine (one for engine and one for tranny that are still left). After removing the cross brace, you need to remove the two large bolts that hold the mounts to the brace, once those are removed, you can put the cross brace aside and then remove the remaining one large bolt that holts the mount to the engine. Then replace the mount and reverse the whole process. Fairly simple. Just the rear mount is very hard to get to the top bolt. Will take some time and patience loosening and tightening that bolt.

Dixit

 

Thanks!

 

Well, since I took my car in this morning, I thought I would give the service department a call. The person I spoke with said the technitian drove it and couldn't hear any 'clunk' or 'thump'. I was FURIOUS!! I told her my 7 year old asked me what the noise was the other day driving to his day camp. I asked if I needed to bring HIM in to show them what the noise was. She took offense to this and said she'd have the service manager drive it.

Called back and bugged them again. She said he drove it, heard something and they were going to spend the rest of the afternoon trying to track it down. They got my valet key programmed (but needed my wife's key also) and they got a Bose HU on order for me. When I pick it up I will make sure it is one of the good ones made after November of 2002.

 

I think ALL nissan Tech's have hearing problems...

 

Well, I picked my Maxima up. The service manager did finally admit he heard something but they couldn't tell what it was. So, next week when my new Bose HU comes in, they will check out my car again. I will also try to get the TSB for the Bose problem (cause the invoice said problem resolved by technical service bulletin).

I also asked if my car was safe to drive with this sound (knowing they didn't know what in the heck it was) and they said sure. Hopefully the radio will come in next week and I can get this sound checked out. If it isn't engine mounts, then I have no idea what it could be.

 

yup it's pretty easy to do. i changed a set recently but i had a lift to do it on. we just took out the bolts from the mounts to the engine. Took the center member off the car. took the mounts off the member, put the new mounts back on. Then moved the member into place and lined up the bolts from the mounts to the engine, got those in loosely and then lined up the bolts from the member to the car, tightened everything down. took about an hour. It was much harder the first time because i tighted the member to the car and then tried to line up the bolts, DO NOT DO THAT lol. it makes it much harder. line up the mounts to the engine then the member to the car.

and thanks for my mounts dixit are you gonna come to our meet this sunday at the shop?

 

Hey can you tell me what kind of noise are you getting?
My dealer is trying to fix this creaking clicking noise when I am driving and hitting on the gas, or when taking off from stop and hitting the gas. This started happening after clutch TSB was done. They have no idea what is causing it and it is driving me nuts.

Here is the site where I found TSB for Bose fix: http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/pr.../tsbsearch.cfm

 

Well, after 3 trips, my car is fixed. It was a busted rear engine mount. The first time, the tech didn't hear anything, so I insisted they drive it again. Well, they drove it and heard something, but ran out of time for the day. The following week while having my referbished Bose HU put in, they discovered the blown engine mount. So they ordered the part 11320-40U01 Insulator-Engin (~$90). I pulled my car over my pit later to take some as-is photos. They are below:

This is the Front engine mount (for reference).


This is the busted Rear Motor Mount. In some of the pictures you can see where the fluid had leaked out of them. In one of the pics, the hole left from the tear was large enough to fit a finger into.



See next post for more pics.

 

These pics are the mount removed (dealer kept it out so I could take some pics).






The car drives alot better now. There is no binding sounds and no more thunking. I am planning on getting my car over the pit again and take some pics of the new mount.

Be safe guys!!