change your own oil?
Does anyone have a problem changing the oil in their Maxima i.e. getting to the oil filter? I've always changed my own oil, and plan on continuing the tradition with my Maxima, but I briefly looked at the location of the oil filter and looks like it's going to be loads of fun!
PS I'm going to use synthetic-probably Mobil 1 or Castrol.
PS I'm going to use synthetic-probably Mobil 1 or Castrol.
It's not that bad. Just reach up through the splash shield & twist it off! I spent more time getting the car up in the air and on jackstands than I did removing the drain plug & filter. I switched to Mobil 1 on my last change & the engine feels a lot smoother.
2K GXE
Icelandic Pearl
K&N Drop In
Next Mod: Courtesy FSTB
2K GXE
Icelandic Pearl
K&N Drop In
Next Mod: Courtesy FSTB
oil
You don't even need to raise the car up, and you don't need to remove the plastic shield. Just reach under the car and twist off the filter. Easy. Pan is also easy to empty. I have been changing the oil on my 95 max and I30 easily!
STEVE
STEVE
Do yourself a favor, turn the wheel full right, remove the 10mm bolt and the funky plastic screw sleeve thing, then pulling back the cover. This will allow you full access to the filter. Mobil-1 is good stuff, change at 8k intervals and you’ll be happy, so will your Max. There is no need to raise the vehicle if you remove the above cover.
I agree with everyone here. It's very easy to change it on the Maxima. I don't even turn the wheel. So far I've been the only person to change the oil on my car. I use Nissan oil filters with Mobil 1. I've been changing my oil at 3500 miles, but now I'm going to use 5000 as an interval.
I guess I am fatter than everyone else, I have to raise the car. But I don't remove the plastic cover. I don't and never will buy a nissan filter (the generic $3 ones at autoparts stores work just as well) I have tried synthetics in the past, I never have seen an advantage. I change every 4k, only because of dirty roads in Chicago, and all the stop and go. I am thinking of pushing it up to 5k. I use Penzoil by the way. And the engine does burn a quart every 4k.
Incidentally, we have a 2k MR2 Spyder. I had to physically lift up on the car to get the jack underneath the side of the car, and when I did get the car up, There is a plastic shroud covering the entire rear bottom of the car. The geniuses at Toyota though, thoughtful, insightful engineers they are, put an access door for the drain plug. Too bad they didnt put one for the oil filter... Needless to say it went to the dealer.
Jimmy
Incidentally, we have a 2k MR2 Spyder. I had to physically lift up on the car to get the jack underneath the side of the car, and when I did get the car up, There is a plastic shroud covering the entire rear bottom of the car. The geniuses at Toyota though, thoughtful, insightful engineers they are, put an access door for the drain plug. Too bad they didnt put one for the oil filter... Needless to say it went to the dealer.
Jimmy
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I wish I could change my own oil...
I used to change the oil myself in my other cars until one day I was approached (on the street) by a snotty police officer. I don't own my own house, and therefore it's hard to have a driveway to use in NYC (without owning your own house). SO I used to do it in FRONT of my house, but on the public street. I was told that it's illegal to have your car jacked up on public roads while changing or letting out harmful materials (engine oil) because there are regulations to that as well as safety issues with a jacked up car on public roads that are still being travelled. I have never looked into it but since I see him in the neighborhood driving around all the time, I don't want the trouble and just bring it in to get done. Unless it's an emergecny (tire change, etc) you can't lift your car on a public road that you're technically paying for? (tax money) Whatever...I'm definitely looking into that

every 3,500 miles
there's a shop up the street from me that accepts coupons from anywhere local, so i usually get my oil changed there for $12-$14. i figure i couldn't do it myself much cheaper, plus they vacuum it out, top off the fluids, clean the windows, check the tire pressure - and i don't have to deal with collecting/disposing of the oil.
Jimmy
Make sure the filter you are using as a anti drainback feature. The Nissan filter does and you can buy them discount for around $4. The Nissan filters also come with a crush ring, which should be replaced at each filter change. I think you can buy the crush rings from Nissan for around .50.
Burning a quart every 4000 is acceptable, but unusual for a VQ. I don't see any measurable loss of oil in my car.
Make sure the filter you are using as a anti drainback feature. The Nissan filter does and you can buy them discount for around $4. The Nissan filters also come with a crush ring, which should be replaced at each filter change. I think you can buy the crush rings from Nissan for around .50.
Burning a quart every 4000 is acceptable, but unusual for a VQ. I don't see any measurable loss of oil in my car.
Originally posted by JimmyH
I guess I am fatter than everyone else, I have to raise the car. But I don't remove the plastic cover. I don't and never will buy a nissan filter (the generic $3 ones at autoparts stores work just as well) I have tried synthetics in the past, I never have seen an advantage. I change every 4k, only because of dirty roads in Chicago, and all the stop and go. I am thinking of pushing it up to 5k. I use Penzoil by the way. And the engine does burn a quart every 4k.
Incidentally, we have a 2k MR2 Spyder. I had to physically lift up on the car to get the jack underneath the side of the car, and when I did get the car up, There is a plastic shroud covering the entire rear bottom of the car. The geniuses at Toyota though, thoughtful, insightful engineers they are, put an access door for the drain plug. Too bad they didnt put one for the oil filter... Needless to say it went to the dealer.
Jimmy
I guess I am fatter than everyone else, I have to raise the car. But I don't remove the plastic cover. I don't and never will buy a nissan filter (the generic $3 ones at autoparts stores work just as well) I have tried synthetics in the past, I never have seen an advantage. I change every 4k, only because of dirty roads in Chicago, and all the stop and go. I am thinking of pushing it up to 5k. I use Penzoil by the way. And the engine does burn a quart every 4k.
Incidentally, we have a 2k MR2 Spyder. I had to physically lift up on the car to get the jack underneath the side of the car, and when I did get the car up, There is a plastic shroud covering the entire rear bottom of the car. The geniuses at Toyota though, thoughtful, insightful engineers they are, put an access door for the drain plug. Too bad they didnt put one for the oil filter... Needless to say it went to the dealer.
Jimmy
I guess I'm lazy
I pay to have mine done. I live in apartments and they dont dig on that action. I also can never seem to get filters on right (often have hard times reaching them). So I pay the ~$20 and keep my hands clean.
I have had 6 different cars in my time, only one of them (a 96 grand cherokee) didnt burn oil. The others incidentally were 79 olds regency, 92 Saturn, 97 Maxima, 99 Jetta VR6, and my current 2000 Maxima.
As for the crush ring, whatever that is, all aftermarket filters have a rubber o-ring, that, with the a little oil spread around it, forms a perfect seal. I have never had an oil leak (except in the 79 olds which was leaking from somewhere high up on the block, and it was a BIG block!)
Jimmy
As for the crush ring, whatever that is, all aftermarket filters have a rubber o-ring, that, with the a little oil spread around it, forms a perfect seal. I have never had an oil leak (except in the 79 olds which was leaking from somewhere high up on the block, and it was a BIG block!)
Jimmy
I strongly suggest you do not use Fram filters. Their standard one is junk. Their extra guard is better I guess. But if you really want to use a non-Nissan one, use the Mobil 1, Purlator or Amsoil units.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Maxx-s-ter
[I]
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Maxx-s-ter
[I]
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
I envy the guys that don't need to jack their car up...
[/i}]
I don't... cuz.. mine looks good Loooowwwww.
I use Fram Filters and Royal Purple synthetic.
I envy the guys that don't need to jack their car up...
[/i}]
I don't... cuz.. mine looks good Loooowwwww.

I use Fram Filters and Royal Purple synthetic.
Re: What's a crushring?
Originally posted by jazzy8
What's a crush ring? Is it for the oil filter or the drain plug? Does it really come with the Nissan oil filter.
What's a crush ring? Is it for the oil filter or the drain plug? Does it really come with the Nissan oil filter.
why do you say? I never looked into it.
Originally posted by Jeff92se
I strongly suggest you do not use Fram filters. Their standard one is junk. Their extra guard is better I guess. But if you really want to use a non-Nissan one, use the Mobil 1, Purlator or Amsoil units.
I strongly suggest you do not use Fram filters. Their standard one is junk. Their extra guard is better I guess. But if you really want to use a non-Nissan one, use the Mobil 1, Purlator or Amsoil units.
Do you have to jack the car up if you have Eibach springs? I just had the springs installed yesterday and I am coming up on 3K and will need to change the oil.
Will I have to jack it up? Kev's reply implies he has to use a jack to change his oil...Is driving up on 2x4s enough without a jack? My last vehicle was a 90 300ZX and I had to drive up on to 2x4s just to be able to get a jack under the car...
Will I have to jack it up? Kev's reply implies he has to use a jack to change his oil...Is driving up on 2x4s enough without a jack? My last vehicle was a 90 300ZX and I had to drive up on to 2x4s just to be able to get a jack under the car...
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