DYnoed today - interesting results.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
DYnoed today - interesting results.
Well - went to the Dyno today - the same Dyno I've always gone to.
Since the last Dyno I have converted to a 5spd and swapped the 3.25" pulley for a 3.12".
Results before: 269hp, 243tq
Results today: 275.2hp, 242.7tq
Since the last Dyno I have converted to a 5spd and swapped the 3.25" pulley for a 3.12".
Results before: 269hp, 243tq
Results today: 275.2hp, 242.7tq
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Just took a few minutes to compare my numbers before and after again.
Looks like I was wrong..for some reason I had it in my head the I did 243tq last time. I didn't...I did 229.
But peak HP is still the same after a 5spd conversion and 3.12" Pulley upgrade.
The good news is however that HP and TQ both were consistantly 10-15 higher throughout the band with the latest Dyno....until about 6100-6500RPM, where it "flattened" to give me no gains peak.
Nonetheless, I look at Dynos like JAY25, who has very similar mods to mine, and I see he is at 320hp, 260tq. Which is exactly where I had expected to be.
A couple of notes:
I didn't have the "boost leak" I've been complaining about today. I was hitting 10PSI in the top of 4th Gear on the Dyno. strange that my boost leak is there and then not occasionally...maybe it's in my head. Vacuum still reads 17Hg at idle the most. 15 normally.
4th Gear is the closest to a 1:1 Ratio - .92:1 vs 3rd Gear which is 1.2:1, so I Dynoed in 4th <so did JAY25>.
We did notice that even though I was tuned to 12.5:1 across the band, I had considerable black smoke both when flooring it and at the top of the tach. (when I let go of the gas at redline)
Ideas?
Looks like I was wrong..for some reason I had it in my head the I did 243tq last time. I didn't...I did 229.
But peak HP is still the same after a 5spd conversion and 3.12" Pulley upgrade.

The good news is however that HP and TQ both were consistantly 10-15 higher throughout the band with the latest Dyno....until about 6100-6500RPM, where it "flattened" to give me no gains peak.
Nonetheless, I look at Dynos like JAY25, who has very similar mods to mine, and I see he is at 320hp, 260tq. Which is exactly where I had expected to be.
A couple of notes:
I didn't have the "boost leak" I've been complaining about today. I was hitting 10PSI in the top of 4th Gear on the Dyno. strange that my boost leak is there and then not occasionally...maybe it's in my head. Vacuum still reads 17Hg at idle the most. 15 normally.
4th Gear is the closest to a 1:1 Ratio - .92:1 vs 3rd Gear which is 1.2:1, so I Dynoed in 4th <so did JAY25>.
We did notice that even though I was tuned to 12.5:1 across the band, I had considerable black smoke both when flooring it and at the top of the tach. (when I let go of the gas at redline)
Ideas?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by qnpark8282
first thing first check ur compression on your motor. Black smoke is not bad but watch our for white smokes
first thing first check ur compression on your motor. Black smoke is not bad but watch our for white smokes
190 front bank, 210 rear bank.
Man - this is bugging me. I did notice, if you look at the charts, that the Dyno went to 6500 before, and now it's only going up to 6200RPM.
Not sure what that means...I'm still missing at least 20-25hp and tq....
Jay has a V2 blower, he is getting a bit more boost than you are. You should be over 300 though. Try and have the dyno operator do a coast down to determine your drive line loss. What is the weight of your wheels? Jay has SSR-C's which are feather light.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by bags533
ian- do you have a SAFC?
Jay does and had it tuned.
If your answer is yes and it is tuned, you might wanna pull the numbers and see what yours are compared to jay or anyone
ian- do you have a SAFC?
Jay does and had it tuned.
If your answer is yes and it is tuned, you might wanna pull the numbers and see what yours are compared to jay or anyone
I tried tuning in all runs yesterday. Tried 11.5:1, 12.1:1, all the way up to 13.0:1.
I finally steadied it between 12.4:1-12.5:1, as that gave the best hp/tq. Of course, I have the Cartech FMU, so I've always had it tuned (during boost) to about 12.5:1.
Anyway - that's a good suggesstion - I'll PM JAY25 and see what he is tuned to.
MardiGras -
I had my 18" rims on, but those are the same rims I've always had when I dynoed.
Without even considering JAY25 - Since last time I Dynoed I've added:
AFC
5spd conversion
lightened flywheel
3.12" Pulley upgrade
and I'm still making the same power!

could it be the flywheel? Does that even make sense?
Good deal ian, I wish I could help more, but I am VERY new to this.. and the SC info I have is all what I have seen or read.
When was the last time you checked your plugs or pulled your codes?
and just to tjrow this at you... jay has gone to the lightened flywheel as well and NOT dyno'd since then
and your boost "leak" is NOT on the dyno? so your NOT seeing the 10 PSI on the street that you saw on the dyno?
This may be a day late , but does that dyno have a boost gauge they can hook up?
That may give insight to the actuall PSI in the manifold
Have you checked all the bolts on the VI? Is the canister still intact?
Just my 2 cents
When was the last time you checked your plugs or pulled your codes?
and just to tjrow this at you... jay has gone to the lightened flywheel as well and NOT dyno'd since then
and your boost "leak" is NOT on the dyno? so your NOT seeing the 10 PSI on the street that you saw on the dyno?
This may be a day late , but does that dyno have a boost gauge they can hook up?
That may give insight to the actuall PSI in the manifold
Have you checked all the bolts on the VI? Is the canister still intact?
Just my 2 cents
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by bags533
Good deal ian, I wish I could help more, but I am VERY new to this.. and the SC info I have is all what I have seen or read.
When was the last time you checked your plugs or pulled your codes?
and just to tjrow this at you... jay has gone to the lightened flywheel as well and NOT dyno'd since then
and your boost "leak" is NOT on the dyno? so your NOT seeing the 10 PSI on the street that you saw on the dyno?
This may be a day late , but does that dyno have a boost gauge they can hook up?
That may give insight to the actuall PSI in the manifold
Have you checked all the bolts on the VI? Is the canister still intact?
Just my 2 cents
Good deal ian, I wish I could help more, but I am VERY new to this.. and the SC info I have is all what I have seen or read.
When was the last time you checked your plugs or pulled your codes?
and just to tjrow this at you... jay has gone to the lightened flywheel as well and NOT dyno'd since then
and your boost "leak" is NOT on the dyno? so your NOT seeing the 10 PSI on the street that you saw on the dyno?
This may be a day late , but does that dyno have a boost gauge they can hook up?
That may give insight to the actuall PSI in the manifold
Have you checked all the bolts on the VI? Is the canister still intact?
Just my 2 cents
I re-torqued all the bolts again anyway, just to be safe and saw no gains in vacuum pressure or boost....
As for the "leak" - it almost seems to be intermittent.
I think what I'll try is disconnecting the MEVI and see if my boost PSI changes. If it does, then the leak could be on the top of the MEVI.
Cansiter and all vacuum hoses look great. I sprayed an entire bottle of carb cleaner last week on all the vacuum hoses and manifold trying to find the leak, if there really even is one, and found nothing.
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
YOu know - it just occurred to me that I have been getting code 0707 once in awhile lately.
"Rear Heated O2 sensor"
COuld this signify anything? I know if the sensor is bad it doesn't affect performance directly, but could this be pointing towards something else?
By the way, my A/F Ratio was never off. The Cartech was pretty dialed-in from my DYnos about 6 months ago. I barely had to adjust the AFC at all to get the curve fairly straight.
IanS
"Rear Heated O2 sensor"
COuld this signify anything? I know if the sensor is bad it doesn't affect performance directly, but could this be pointing towards something else?
By the way, my A/F Ratio was never off. The Cartech was pretty dialed-in from my DYnos about 6 months ago. I barely had to adjust the AFC at all to get the curve fairly straight.
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by bags533
Ian .. IIRC that code, ANY o2 code, could mean KS bad.
Ian .. IIRC that code, ANY o2 code, could mean KS bad.

Never heard that before. I have no KS code when checking them.
Not that I don't believe you, but can you show me any threads regarding this? I can seem to find anything when I search...
Maybe it's jsut that SprintMax is right - my car is slow....
Originally posted by iansw

Never heard that before. I have no KS code when checking them.
Not that I don't believe you, but can you show me any threads regarding this? I can seem to find anything when I search...
Maybe it's jsut that SprintMax is right - my car is slow....

Never heard that before. I have no KS code when checking them.
Not that I don't believe you, but can you show me any threads regarding this? I can seem to find anything when I search...
Maybe it's jsut that SprintMax is right - my car is slow....
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by Stephen Max
I've got 0707 and I know for a fact that my knock sensor is good (I replaced it). 0707 can be set off by a number of things, such as a bad o2 sensor, bad harness connection, running a test pipe instead of the cat (which is why I get 0707) and an exhaust leak upstream of the rear heated o2 sensor. The FSM says that an 0707 code does not affect closed loop operation of the ECU, so it can't be the source of any power loss.
I've got 0707 and I know for a fact that my knock sensor is good (I replaced it). 0707 can be set off by a number of things, such as a bad o2 sensor, bad harness connection, running a test pipe instead of the cat (which is why I get 0707) and an exhaust leak upstream of the rear heated o2 sensor. The FSM says that an 0707 code does not affect closed loop operation of the ECU, so it can't be the source of any power loss.
I'm thinking I should replace the Cat soon, just for good measure.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by Stephen Max
I've got 0707 and I know for a fact that my knock sensor is good (I replaced it). 0707 can be set off by a number of things, such as a bad o2 sensor, bad harness connection, running a test pipe instead of the cat (which is why I get 0707) and an exhaust leak upstream of the rear heated o2 sensor. The FSM says that an 0707 code does not affect closed loop operation of the ECU, so it can't be the source of any power loss.
I've got 0707 and I know for a fact that my knock sensor is good (I replaced it). 0707 can be set off by a number of things, such as a bad o2 sensor, bad harness connection, running a test pipe instead of the cat (which is why I get 0707) and an exhaust leak upstream of the rear heated o2 sensor. The FSM says that an 0707 code does not affect closed loop operation of the ECU, so it can't be the source of any power loss.
I'm thinking I should replace the Cat soon, just for good measure.
Originally posted by iansw
That's exactly what I thought.
I'm thinking I should replace the Cat soon, just for good measure.
That's exactly what I thought.
I'm thinking I should replace the Cat soon, just for good measure.
I noticed your car last dynoed in Oct and you just dynoed again in July....was there a huge temperature difference?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by [maxi-overdose]
check the flex section of your ypipe too. Y2KevSE had a bad flex section and the car wasnt putting out as much whp as expected after 5spd conversion.
I noticed your car last dynoed in Oct and you just dynoed again in July....was there a huge temperature difference?
check the flex section of your ypipe too. Y2KevSE had a bad flex section and the car wasnt putting out as much whp as expected after 5spd conversion.
I noticed your car last dynoed in Oct and you just dynoed again in July....was there a huge temperature difference?
I've never heard of a problem with a Warpspeed Flex Section. But I'm going to take off the Cat next weekend and have a look at it anyway, so I'll check the y-Pipe at the same time.
I may be able to get a good deal on a new KS, so i may just try that also.
Other ideas?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Serious? Everything I read tells me no more than 2-3hp from the Cat.
But you're the man Mardisgras, so whatever you say.
I'll order a straight-pipe tomorrow.
But you're the man Mardisgras, so whatever you say.
I'll order a straight-pipe tomorrow.
Originally posted by iansw
Serious? Everything I read tells me no more than 2-3hp from the Cat.
But you're the man Mardisgras, so whatever you say.
I'll order a straight-pipe tomorrow.
Serious? Everything I read tells me no more than 2-3hp from the Cat.
But you're the man Mardisgras, so whatever you say.
I'll order a straight-pipe tomorrow.
Be sure to get a test pipe with a diameter as large as the rest of the system. I was looking at mine last night and I noticed for the first time that its diameter was smaller than the y-pipe and b-pipe diameters. Not a huge difference, but noticeable.
Originally posted by iansw

Never heard that before. I have no KS code when checking them.
Not that I don't believe you, but can you show me any threads regarding this? I can seem to find anything when I search...
Maybe it's jsut that SprintMax is right - my car is slow....

Never heard that before. I have no KS code when checking them.
Not that I don't believe you, but can you show me any threads regarding this? I can seem to find anything when I search...
Maybe it's jsut that SprintMax is right - my car is slow....
I recalled INCORRECTLY.
I looked at a few posts, and then it hit me.. the o2 sensors cause KS codes and the KS is normally not bad.
SORRY for the misinformation
iansw
bags
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Test pipe is installed.
I did everything very tightly - torquing to the FSM spec of 55 ft lbs.
But now my exhaust sounds like a ricer on steroids. Total Civic coffee can sound when I floor it.
I have:
WSP Y-Pipe, WSP B-Pipe w/resonater, and Stillen Exhaust.
This normal!?!?
I did everything very tightly - torquing to the FSM spec of 55 ft lbs.
But now my exhaust sounds like a ricer on steroids. Total Civic coffee can sound when I floor it.
I have:
WSP Y-Pipe, WSP B-Pipe w/resonater, and Stillen Exhaust.
This normal!?!?
bump -
i am very curious as to why 4 new mods (especially the smaller pulley) didnt add up to any more than 6 hp?? and Im sure it wouldn't be the flywheel. put your old pulley back on and dyno again if you have the time/money to do it. keeping the other three mods contant, this should help you narrow down the problem.
what is the stock pulley size?
i am very curious as to why 4 new mods (especially the smaller pulley) didnt add up to any more than 6 hp?? and Im sure it wouldn't be the flywheel. put your old pulley back on and dyno again if you have the time/money to do it. keeping the other three mods contant, this should help you narrow down the problem.
what is the stock pulley size?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
I think the pulley is the very last mod I should pull. It's showing more boost on the gauge - it's working.
The flywheel wouldn't be it - noone reported any hp loss with a flywheel and SC before. JAY25 (I keep using him as an example) noticed no power loss with it.
The 5spd conversion is the last thing...but that just makes no sense. Tranny is working flawlessly.
Also, when I took my Cat out today I had a look at it and it looks perfectly fine.
However - I got a CEL right before I got to the garage I do my work at. (Before pulling Cat)
0201 and 0707 - Left bank Lean and Rear O2....
WTF?
I'm actually now more concerned at the moment with the fact that the test pipe on the exhaust system sounds like crap. Bad raspy exhaust note...
The flywheel wouldn't be it - noone reported any hp loss with a flywheel and SC before. JAY25 (I keep using him as an example) noticed no power loss with it.
The 5spd conversion is the last thing...but that just makes no sense. Tranny is working flawlessly.
Also, when I took my Cat out today I had a look at it and it looks perfectly fine.
However - I got a CEL right before I got to the garage I do my work at. (Before pulling Cat)
0201 and 0707 - Left bank Lean and Rear O2....
WTF?

I'm actually now more concerned at the moment with the fact that the test pipe on the exhaust system sounds like crap. Bad raspy exhaust note...
Originally posted by iansw
I've never heard of a problem with a Warpspeed Flex Section. But I'm going to take off the Cat next weekend and have a look at it anyway, so I'll check the y-Pipe at the same time.
I've never heard of a problem with a Warpspeed Flex Section. But I'm going to take off the Cat next weekend and have a look at it anyway, so I'll check the y-Pipe at the same time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Crud!
I forgot to!!!
All I had was ramps and I maybe had 16" of space to work with down there....barely enough to even get under the car.

Good point. Next weekend I'll have access to a lift and I can check that out then.
IanS
I forgot to!!!
All I had was ramps and I maybe had 16" of space to work with down there....barely enough to even get under the car.

Good point. Next weekend I'll have access to a lift and I can check that out then.
IanS
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Drove it some more today.
Car does feel a little tiny bit faster in the high end....nothing spectacular, however....definately not the 25-35hp I'm missing.
But my low end SUCKS now.
And it's stinky and loud, and obviously not part of my hp problem.
So I'm going to take it back off.....when I do, I will check the Y-Pipe this time.
Car does feel a little tiny bit faster in the high end....nothing spectacular, however....definately not the 25-35hp I'm missing.
But my low end SUCKS now.
And it's stinky and loud, and obviously not part of my hp problem.
So I'm going to take it back off.....when I do, I will check the Y-Pipe this time.
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,451
From: Near Archer High School, Ga
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
dump the cat, that will yeild you at least 10whp, prolly more, since you are boosted
dump the cat, that will yeild you at least 10whp, prolly more, since you are boosted
I told him that this past January but think he listened to me
but since you set the standards maybe he will listen to you
I mean I did what you told me to do it worked out great. I want to hook up that blue sprite bottle in the trunk thats really the reason I have not gone back. As soon as I get a chance Ill dyno again for you guys can see the gains with the alloy flywheel What a beauty mod thats all I can say
Originally posted by iansw
Drove it some more today.
Car does feel a little tiny bit faster in the high end....nothing spectacular, however....definately not the 25-35hp I'm missing.
But my low end SUCKS now.
And it's stinky and loud, and obviously not part of my hp problem.
So I'm going to take it back off.....when I do, I will check the Y-Pipe this time.
Drove it some more today.
Car does feel a little tiny bit faster in the high end....nothing spectacular, however....definately not the 25-35hp I'm missing.
But my low end SUCKS now.
And it's stinky and loud, and obviously not part of my hp problem.
So I'm going to take it back off.....when I do, I will check the Y-Pipe this time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Let the ECU learn it and put it back on the dyno before you change your mind.
Let the ECU learn it and put it back on the dyno before you change your mind.
Also, it's 80+ degrees, and so it's hard to judge the low end because the car is slow anyway.
Jay - sorry about that.
Maybe I should listen to you more often
.I do love the flywheel, but never had a stock flywheel on the 5spd, so I can't say what the difference feels like. But YOU were the reason I decided to get it - if that makes you feel better.

Hey Mardi -
Any idea if a 2k+ Exhaust flows any better/worse than a Stillen Exhaust? Maybe the answer to the "ricer" noise is simply new exhaust.....
Took the Y-Pipe off today - looks just fine.
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,451
From: Near Archer High School, Ga
Originally posted by 96shogunmax
The test pipe is the key if your S/Ced , Jaime told me that.
I listened.....
The test pipe is the key if your S/Ced , Jaime told me that.
I listened.....

Wayne mardigrasmax said that the test pipe was the key
, I only passed the info over to you
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,936
From: Puyallup WA
Ok - back on topic....
Last week, I got a CEL. Left Bank lean (0201) and 0707 (Rear O2 Sensor). I got these codes on the way to go to the garage and change my Cat out for the pipe. I have not gotten these codes since - but it's only been a few days.
I have gotten both codes before, but I haven't gotten the left bank lean in almost 6 months. The O2 I've been getting on and off for about a month now.
Also, when the car is cold, and I rev it to 2.5k or so and let go, I get backfire.
Now I also checked my plugs. After 1 week of use, a couple of them have the telltale white residue on the top of the plug.
Is this telling me I'm getting pre-ignition or knocking? I tried putting octane booster in, and my EGT's are a bit higher.
As it is normally, I am usually at about 1000-1100 when cruising at 65mph and rarely go over 1250 on the EGT even at full boost. With the upped Octane, I am at 1200 when cruising on a straight flat freeway.
I had my gf in the car, so I couldn't really get on it and see what peak was.
This tell anyone anything? I'm using NGK BKR6E-11 (1 Step colder, copper) plugs.
Thanks!
IanS
Last week, I got a CEL. Left Bank lean (0201) and 0707 (Rear O2 Sensor). I got these codes on the way to go to the garage and change my Cat out for the pipe. I have not gotten these codes since - but it's only been a few days.
I have gotten both codes before, but I haven't gotten the left bank lean in almost 6 months. The O2 I've been getting on and off for about a month now.
Also, when the car is cold, and I rev it to 2.5k or so and let go, I get backfire.
Now I also checked my plugs. After 1 week of use, a couple of them have the telltale white residue on the top of the plug.
Is this telling me I'm getting pre-ignition or knocking? I tried putting octane booster in, and my EGT's are a bit higher.
As it is normally, I am usually at about 1000-1100 when cruising at 65mph and rarely go over 1250 on the EGT even at full boost. With the upped Octane, I am at 1200 when cruising on a straight flat freeway.
I had my gf in the car, so I couldn't really get on it and see what peak was.
This tell anyone anything? I'm using NGK BKR6E-11 (1 Step colder, copper) plugs.
Thanks!
IanS





(j/k)