Don't you hate screwing in Bolts #14 & 15?
Don't you hate screwing in Bolts #14 & 15?
Yesterday I decided to replace the drive belt with the Dayco Poly Cog that Craig Mack talked about. The belt was giving off the occasional slipping noise and so I had the whole day to myself to do something about it.
Took me 5 hours to do the switch. It could have been less than that if it wasn't for the impression I got from the off-set look I got from Bolt #14. That's the one you have to use the Allen key to screw in. Didn't look right as it went in about half way so I took it out, loosened all of the other bolts and threaded it back it. Again it didn't look right but I went for it and it seated properly.
After that it was Bolt #15's turn. That one is a B*tch to get in as well. Could barely get my hand in there to thread the bolt. After several tries I took my 19mm open end wrench and used it to hold the idler pulley in place and I was finally able to thread the bolt in.
After all the bolts were tightened and the oil feed line reconnected I started up the car and ran it for a couple of minutes. Shut it down and the alignment was good! Because I knew that there were 3 washers used I used a felt pen and marked the location of each washer before taking the blower off of the mounting plate. Started at 12:30pm and finished at 5:30pm
Well, since the car was up on jacks I decided to replace the engine oil as well. I saw that I had a big jug of 5W-30 Mobil 1 in the garage so I drained the oil and took off the filter. I opened the jug and found it to be pretty dark. Almost black in fact. It dawned on me that this was from my last oil change and I was going to take it to the local recycler but I forgot to do it!! I check my watch and it was 6:15pm! Cr*p! The Canadian Tire store had closed 15 minutes ago! I hop into my wife's car and checked out the oil at the local Chevron to see what they carry. Unfortunately not Mobil 1, just their own stuff.
Sonically the Dayco didn't sound that much different than the original V-Belt but I'll see once I get the oil back in and take a drive!
Took me 5 hours to do the switch. It could have been less than that if it wasn't for the impression I got from the off-set look I got from Bolt #14. That's the one you have to use the Allen key to screw in. Didn't look right as it went in about half way so I took it out, loosened all of the other bolts and threaded it back it. Again it didn't look right but I went for it and it seated properly.
After that it was Bolt #15's turn. That one is a B*tch to get in as well. Could barely get my hand in there to thread the bolt. After several tries I took my 19mm open end wrench and used it to hold the idler pulley in place and I was finally able to thread the bolt in.
After all the bolts were tightened and the oil feed line reconnected I started up the car and ran it for a couple of minutes. Shut it down and the alignment was good! Because I knew that there were 3 washers used I used a felt pen and marked the location of each washer before taking the blower off of the mounting plate. Started at 12:30pm and finished at 5:30pm
Well, since the car was up on jacks I decided to replace the engine oil as well. I saw that I had a big jug of 5W-30 Mobil 1 in the garage so I drained the oil and took off the filter. I opened the jug and found it to be pretty dark. Almost black in fact. It dawned on me that this was from my last oil change and I was going to take it to the local recycler but I forgot to do it!! I check my watch and it was 6:15pm! Cr*p! The Canadian Tire store had closed 15 minutes ago! I hop into my wife's car and checked out the oil at the local Chevron to see what they carry. Unfortunately not Mobil 1, just their own stuff.
Sonically the Dayco didn't sound that much different than the original V-Belt but I'll see once I get the oil back in and take a drive!
Hi blackcat....havent seen you here for a while 
14 is the bolt that holds the corner of tension adjuster plate and 15 is the bolt that holds the idler pulley. 14 is a lot easier to me and for bolt 15, I found it is easier to do it by having your entire body go underneath the car and have your legs pointinng towards the driver side. I use both index fingers to get it threaded.
two things that I hate the most about replacing the belt are: 1.bolt no. 18 (I believe we dont need a small bolt like this) 2.pushing the fuse back back (I spent 1/2 hour last time just to push this sucker back in).

14 is the bolt that holds the corner of tension adjuster plate and 15 is the bolt that holds the idler pulley. 14 is a lot easier to me and for bolt 15, I found it is easier to do it by having your entire body go underneath the car and have your legs pointinng towards the driver side. I use both index fingers to get it threaded.
two things that I hate the most about replacing the belt are: 1.bolt no. 18 (I believe we dont need a small bolt like this) 2.pushing the fuse back back (I spent 1/2 hour last time just to push this sucker back in).
Originally posted by [maxi-overdose]
I use both index fingers to get it threaded.
I use both index fingers to get it threaded.
Your fingers must be smaller than mine if you can do that! Not much to report other than the loose wire connection on my EGT gauge.
I was lying kind of parallel but at a slight angle. Well..next time I'll try your method!
I used my special tool to thread it in: an Allen key taped to the end of my Craftsman screwdriver. I was able to thread a little of the bolt with one hand but had to use the Allen key for the rest of it.
Originally posted by BlackCat
Your fingers must be smaller than mine if you can do that!
I used my special tool to thread it in: an Allen key taped to the end of my Craftsman screwdriver. I was able to thread a little of the bolt with one hand but had to use the Allen key for the rest of it.
Your fingers must be smaller than mine if you can do that! I used my special tool to thread it in: an Allen key taped to the end of my Craftsman screwdriver. I was able to thread a little of the bolt with one hand but had to use the Allen key for the rest of it.

yes, I saw the picture of your special tool!
I am able to hand tight that small FHCS bolt #18....but instead of allen key, I use a male trox socket with a smalle 1/4" wrench. it fits, but it is very easy to strip a bolt with the male trox socket so I dont make it too tight.
Originally posted by BlackCat
Did you see my other thread about fatigue on the aluminum idler pulley?
I was so tempted to put back the plastic one on. Instead I just flipped the pulley around.
Did you see my other thread about fatigue on the aluminum idler pulley?
I was so tempted to put back the plastic one on. Instead I just flipped the pulley around.
have you tried using the lexus pulley? I know few here are using it...Danny (PCguru2k)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
lowpost99
1st & 2nd Generation Maxima (1981-1984 and 1985-1988)
9
Oct 26, 2025 06:53 PM
The Frye
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
6
Sep 2, 2021 11:03 AM




