I just bought the Pirelli Pzero Nero M&S 235/40/18 from tire rack and had them put on my car. The test run was devistating and i am not sure why. For suspension i have H&R with kyb agx, a rear sway, fstb. Driving home on a country road taking turns at +5 the speed limit (50 mph) i could barely keep my back end on the road. Furthermore, whenever i jerked the wheel on a straight away the car would oscillate until the back end steadied out. When i took it on the highway i thought i was gona shake myself right off into the railing when making a hard pass. Its a creepy feeling that i was not used to with my Pirelli P7000's. I called tire rack, they suggested it could be thread sway but im about to pull a 180 here holding the speed limit. I will return the tires if i have to and buy something else, just i wanted a balance of all seasons and performance. These seemed from the tire rack reviews to be the right tire. Any imput to what could be causing this is very welcome because i am in a bind of what to do. Is there some type of a break in period for tires, is it my luck these are faulty, or time to get a new tire?

 

From experience, the first time I drove off having my Sumitomo HTR+ installed I almost hit a car trying to stop. The tires just seemed to break traction like they were oiled when I applied the same amount of brake pedal pressure as I did with stock tires. After 1000 miles though, they held a turn like I never experienced before. I say give it some break in mileage and complain if it still can't hold the speed limit.

 

Try doing a few nice smokey burnouts on em, then switch the back and front tires and burnout on those. Should wear em in nice

 

there is a short break in period for tires. a few days at most, BUT, even a new tire shouldnt feel or be dangerous while driving. unless there is something majorly wrong with the tires i think there could be something else wrong with your car.

 

Just like Turbo95Max said, there is a short break-in period for tires. This usually is because when the tires are green (uncured) they are sprayed with something called green outside paint (GOP) which keeps them from sticking to the molds during and after curing, but also helps air escape from between the rubber and the mold so that the rubber completely forms to the mold like it's supposed to. When the air isn't allowed to completely escape, you end up with these small shiny indentations in the rubber called lights, which are basically where air got trapped because it couldn't vent out of the mold. Since the tires have to pass visual inspections before they are released for sale, you shouldn't ever get a chance to see one of these on the road.

But I digress, give your tires a little more time to wear off this GOP and whatever other oils/agents/chemicals were sprayed on at the tire plant, then you'll be running on the tread rubber like both you and the tire company intended, and you'll be good to go.

On a side note, I believe the EPA officially labelled GOP as environmentally hazardous, so tire manufacturers are going to have to stop using it and either put more vents into molds to allow the air to escape (or use vacuum molds), or find a different chemical that will serve the same purpose without hurting the environment.

Philip

 

Try taking off your sway bar it has seemed to be a problem on lowered maximas.

 

Ummm. I can't believe any one hasnt metioned tire pressure. Woulda been the first place I looked. Even discount can forget at times.

 

Keep in mind what was said about the oils on new rubber. This is no joke!!! When I buy new tires for my motorcycle, you MUST allow a few hunderd miles of gradually scuffing them up in the twisties to get all the release agent to come out. Yes, there quite slippery when new!

Also keep in mind that tire shops like to pump up the pressure to around 35+ PSI which is to much for the rear of your car. To much tire pressure reduces the tires contact patch, combine this with the release agent and you've got one slippery experiance, especially in the rain.

 

Dump the sway bar if you're lowered. There's no need for an EXTRA sway bar when your center of gravity is 1.5-2.0" lower. Contrary to Org belief, there is a 1" sway bar located in the beam and it's connected to the trailing arms. Look up underneath the beam and you'll see it. Ride quality will improve (less unsprung weight), less bind will occur in the rear (causing the spin) and handling at the limit will improve.

BTW, Motor Trend got better numbers on the Stillen Maxima WITHOUT the sway bar.


Dave

 

I agree with the high tire pressure. Many places just inflate to the max limit on the sidewall.

Another reason to keep it civil in the first day or two is that a tire is lubed to make it easy to fit over the wheel rim lip. The lube needs time to dry out or the tire can rotate on the wheel under heavy loading, causing them to go out of balance.

 

it could be that pirellis suck ... but what they said ..

 

thanks for your replies, i will be sure to check everything tomorrow. I believe the tire pressure is high, what would u suggest 32?, and there usually is a break in time for everything. So the sway bar may be hurting my performance, there really no point on a lowered car? interesting.. i may have to take that off, anyone interested in buying an RSB

 

IMO i think you should get your money back. I have NEVER had a problem with tires as you describe.

Are they the same size as your previous tires?

 

yeah same size, they seem to be riding better, however we are under a spell of rain so i have no had a chance to see if all these changes i have mad with pressure and breaking it in have made a difference.

 

29 psi in the rear, 32 in tha front

 

And all this time I'm trying to stiffen the darn things more.