Has anyone done this? The Haynes manuel doesn't really explain it well. I have found the full assembly for 120$ from a stealership. My question is it something that anyone could do, or should I drop the 400$ it will cost from a shop and have them do it? I have done brakes and other smaller jobs, but I am reluctanct to tackle this job. I would be very appreciative if anyone has a write up or some pictures of the process. BTW, I have a 99se with abs.

 

i had my wheel bearing replaced for 80 labor (each side), plus about 40 for the part (each). I dunno if you need just bearing replaced or everything.

 

Here is the link:



http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/704



I also looked in my Haynes manual and it said that this job was best left to a qualified mechanic who had the proper tools to do the job, so I took it to the dealer. I have to do the other side now, but the dealership told me I could still get several thousand miles out of them though. Your pick. The motorvate site is great .

 

I paid about the same as you did. I had my front wheel hub assembly and bearings replaced. Are you getting all this replaced too?

I told them to do my CV boot too, I had noticed some wear on it the day before I took it in. Saved some $ on the labor becasue everything was already taken apart .

 

I think I am going to have the entire assembly replaced because I do not want to get into packing the bearings and whatnot. Now after looking at that site, I think this may be a little beyond me. I’m usually willing to take a shot at fixing my car myself, but I don’t think I want to take the chance of screwing up my ABS system. It seems that it could be an expensive proposition. I also am afraid that my CV joint may be gone, because there has been some clicking back there, and I don’t know what exactly it is. Damn alley's of Boston, 2 years of them have kick the sh*t out of my car, thank god I am out of there now.

Also, I think that the front wheel bearing is different that the rear. Or maybe there is a difference between his car and my 99. Either way, I think I may have to take it to the stealership and not risk doing any more damage to the car than there already is. I just can’t take the insane humming from that wheel, I can hardly hear the radio.

Ill keep you guys updated on what I end up doing.

Mark

 

Mark, order those 2 bearings online. Goto Jerome nissan online and order the 2 bearings you need. They are 45 each, minus 30% discount, should set you back 60 bucks plus shipping. Then take it to a mechanic and have it replaced. That should be the cheapest. Either way, you should probably get your parts online, then decide what to do from there.

 

Its actually not that hard....just sorta time consuming. Its a lot of disconnecting, and loosening bolts, etc. But hey, if you have the money to give to mechanics, then go ahead....i just usually do the work i can, myself. Just be sure to have a Pickle Fork (or something like that), and then basic sockets and wrenches.

 

Is not that hard to do the job ,but you ll need a press to do it. I ve done one in the past (Honda Accord) and the Max should be about the same. If you have problems with the CV axle it would be good to take care of that at this time and avoid any future headaches. You may save some money if you take the hub apart from the car, have the replacement bearing ,and take the hub and the bearing to the shop to do the replacement .That would save some $$ in the labor charge. If the mechanic knows what he s doing ,it would take 5-10 min. to to the job

 

I'm going to the same exact thing..... i bought the bearing and i'm going to take the hub to a shop who will replace it for $35.

 

What i did was buy 2)bearings for $35.00 each plus $40.00 for new seals.then removed the wheel knuckle assembly took to a machine shop and got the bearings pressed for $15.00 each side. put back together and saved me alot of $$$$$$$$.Not that bad of a job to do yourself.

 

I did the driver's side bearing using the method described by Frank on motorvate.ca I found it to be pretty difficult, mainly because I was using all-thread to press the hub back into the knuckle. All-thread has a coarse thread pitch and the friction was really high, even with a lubricant. I eventually accomplished it because I have air tools, but I don't think I could have pressed the hub back in with just a wrench. When I did the passenger side bearing I switched to a fine thread bolt and it was much easier.