If the T4 aka Nigel's kit is that size turbo....how much boost is it capable of producing? Would it also depend on significant others such as the exhaust piping and air flow? Or could the electronic boost controller tell it how much PSI to run at any certain time when being tuned?

 

Most all turbo can do about 25psi or more. As long as the turbo feed pipe is good flowing, you are going to make that 25psi or more easily. Whether it be a t3/t4, t4, t60, t88. It more of the question can your max handle that much? Most likely hell no unless you done major internals change like first off loweringt he compression so you can run higher amounts and then getting strengthened rods and pistons and all that good stuff. Safe is about 11-12psi. Anything more on stock internals is pushing it and you on your own from there. Ive seen this one max push 18psi stock and it blew, same one pushed 25psi on lowered compression and JE pistons and rods. You can see how much that makes a difference.

You are confusing the things, what does the electronic boost controller got to do with how much a turbo can put out? That is basically going to control how much psi you want when you dial it in. It will display on the screen what your current PSI is and where you set the max to and how often you go slightly over it with the wastegate. Some will map a chart of your boost psi with time.

Dixit

 

Ohhh...thats all understandable. But I thought that if you dial up the boost controller....the more boost your turbo will produce. The major thing that sucks is that pistons and connecting rods for the VQ are so damn expensive. Even for the VG (for 300ZX and 3rd gen Max) - compression/flat top pistons are like $1000. Hah, anything can be done w/ money. Now it's injector learning time.

 

The boost controller doesnt make the turbo technically create more boost (but in a way it does). The boost controller flat out controls the wastegate which is basically "Holding back" on how much boost the turbo is allowed to make. All the wastegate does is dump the gas pre-maturely before it gets to the tubine housing to help spool the wheel quicker/harder. In turn this basically holds the turbo back. So its the wastegate that controls the whole thing. See if you dont have an electronic boost controller, it dont mean it cant be done. Basically all the electronic is a glorified version of a manual boost controller with a whole bunch of safety features and goodies. All the thing basically does is falsify the boost pressure to the wastegate which in turn holds the valve shut longer to keep the turbo spooling till the wastegate reads the point where it needs to open the valve.

See the wastegate is dumb, all it wants to know is when i reach "x psi" Im opening my valve to release gases to keep the turbo from going past that "x psi". But you can manipulate what it seems and make it think its see "x psi" when technically you could be at "z psi" on your intake manifold.

Not difficult just confusing. That is your homework and reading for tonight. Class will continue on tommorow

Dixit

 

ummmm, where do you get your prices from?? for the VG you can easily get BRCs in any CR for $500 and use Z32 rods(or heat treat your current VG30 rods)....

 

DA MAX - some super street ad....if you have one - look thru it and you'll find it.



Dixit....so - a wastegate is basically a BOV eh? Keeping the extra boost from getting in the engine.


How does a manual boost controller work?

 

figures...magazine ads list "sucker" prices...you always find better prices when you know where to go or search harder

 

Geez....so the electronic boost controller is a lot better eh?

Is there a site for internals for the VQ and such??

 

no not necessarily...as far as raising and lowering psi, they are exactly the same(YES you can lower psi with an MBC back to stock wastegate psi..I tink slammed95 worded that statement kinda confusing)...

EBCs only begin to differ when you get into the more complicated units like the AVCR(which is a ***** IMO!!!) and Blitz DSBC units which incorporte "gain" and fuzzy logic and gear based psi adjustments...IMO MBC or a simple EBC is the way to go.

if you go MBC do not cheap out cause some are prone to severe boost spike

 

Addae is right. My MBC sometimes gives way more than what I dialed in last week. Reason for this is the design. It uses this spring and ball. Well when the engine bay gets really hot, the spring gets alot looser than it would at normal temps. It then blows off too much boost air making the Wastegate think it has to hold shut longer. Ive seen it where I dial it in at say 6psi. And on a certain day I can get it to go all the way to 10psi and stay there, not a spike but actually boost on a run at 10psi. Not good cause if I ever dial in 10, and forget to dial it back, I can easily be dialing in 15psi on a day when its really hot. Thats why EBCs are better and cost more cause they can control that. Not saying a good MBC wouldnt do that either, just it wouldnt warn you when you get near that high boost level. Then again if you had some Greddy or Apexi gauges (electronic) it could warn you there.

Dixit

 

Yea, I know of a used EBC that cost a certain someone about $400. I was like - dayum!

So what about your turbo Dixit? You don't have Hal's kit? Yours is capable of holding the same PSI as the t4/t4?

 

Like we already said, the size of the turbo dont matter, t3, t3/t4, t4/ t60, they all can do about 25psi at least. Some may do more but basically who cares about that cause you cant go above 13-14 on stock internals safely anyways.

Dixit

 

these links might help some...the last one is really good and will really help when it comes to comparing the % efficiency/flow rates of various turbos

http://home.comcast.net/~tarryo/kyle...fficiency.html
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_pr...ech/index.html
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=142398

 

cool Addae.....thats a hella info - but I need to read it.

 

how much boost should i run on my 96 infiniti i30 with stock internals my fuel system consists of safc2, 300zx tt injectors, walbro 255 fuel pump, and i know this isnt part of the fuel system but i got a r34 skyline gtr intercooler to keep things cool

 

i got an extra vq in the garage that i want to run 14 psi on and be a reliable daily driver were can i buy for the cheapest price internals (8:1 pistons, forged rods?)

 

Well with the 300zx injectors you should be able to run your 14psi except it would be advisable to get a J&S Ultra safeguard to help retard the timing. At that level you may start experience some knocking that you wont hear because of the 10:1 compression.

Besides that, you dont need anything else more that what you listed.

Dixit

 

i forgot to mention that im in cali so im only able to get 91 octane **** water. that doesnt help the knocking issue.

 

will it work with the knock sensor features of the new safc2 or is it redunant to have both?

 

I think the AFC2 knock feature will only show/alert when knock occurs, but the J&S will not only alert you to knock, but actually retard timing per cylinder when knock is detected...so no it will not be redundant to have both, they serve different purposes.

 

oh aight sounds tight aboout how much is it ?

 

how about some internals for my extra engine does any one make 8:1 piston and forged rods for the vq?

 

I think there are 9:1, but not 8:1. Is it Arias that makes pistons for our cars? I forget.

I would ask Nigel, aka Turbo97SE, he's in the process of rebuilding his engine with pistons and rods. They are available, but not cheap at all.