Here is the short of it. My little sister inadvertantly fried the door light. Now it does not work when ever the door is opened.

I tired to pin out the problem hoping for a bad wire. no go.

It looked like the door light gets its power off of the electric window switch

the two wires that feed the door light are as follows:

Red with Blue(almost light blue) striping: I think is + wire, and connects to the window harness

red with ocasional silver splotches: i think is - and runs to the fuse panel area

Is this assumption correct?

if so does this mean i need a new electric window switch inorder for the door light to work?

also, if anyone does have the electrical diagram or wirecolor chart for the door, please scan it in, or take a high resolution picture and email it to me?

thanks in advance!

 

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Hey Man:

There is a rubber stopper with aswitch under it that ispushed in when the door is closed. I believe and I could be wron, that when you open the door the stopped or switch completes the circuit so your door light will come on. When you are looking at the door area it is at the bottom right hand side (assuming you are looking at the driver's door).

When I installed my car alarm we had to use this pin.

Hope this helps!

Big Cracker

 

yeah....that does complete the circuit and allow the door lights to power on. the problem is that all the door lights come on except for the drivers side door.

my dad lost my multimeter so i have to pin out the wire using a LED bulb.

I just need to find out if the dirvers side door light gets its power from the electric door lock/power window switch which is the red/blue wire, or if is gets its power from the red with occassional silver splotches wire.

wiring diagrams would just be extra frosting on the cake.

 

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Yes, if your light doesn't work and the bulb is good. Your LCU is probably bad. That is the fancy name Nissan gives to the door window switch pods. The Local Control Units all tie into the Body Control Unit. The lights in the doors are fed a constant + and the - is fed from the LCU. If the LCU goes bad, the bulb will never get a ground. To test this, remove the bulb and use a meter to test for voltage. Connect one lead to chassis ground and then meter one lead at a time. One should have +12 volts. Isolate the +12V wire and then set your meter to continuity. Leave the one lead attached to ground and then probe the other pin. You should get continuity. If you don't your LCU is bad. Hope that makes sense.

 

here is some
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...11_78_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...11_79_full.jpg
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...11_80_full.jpg

 

i got the same probolem. my light hasnt worked since i got my infinity speakers in. if u get this to work please let me know so i can get the damn thing to work again. good luck..

blake

 

Thanks for the diagrams maxS !

Thank you too Toolrocks. You confirmed my theory about the LCU being shot. Funny thing is, i can still use every other funtion of the LCU unit.

Did not think that the red wire would be +. I figured the red/blue was.

driver824...... you need to get a new LCU aka window switches.