This is my first attempt at rear brakes on my Maxima. I've done them before on domestic cars, so I figure it can't be THAT different. What parts, tools, etc. would I need?
I've read in the past that new rotors aren't very pricey, so I might go with 2 new rotors. Also, what would the best brake pads be? (My car is bone stock and I don't do any heavy braking.)

Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks everyone,

Bill

 

Dont need any special tools except a socket set, and a C-clamp, and possibly a screwdriver (flat).

If you dont do any heavy braking, then I would just go with standard brakes, you get only 30% power from the rear, so putting nice porterfields or axxis metal masters is not going to help much at all.

If you want to do new rotors, thats fine as well. Might need a hammer to bang the center of the hub to crack the rotor loose if its rusted. Only hit the hammer on the rotor hub, not the face of the rotor like some people do.

Dixit

 

like big dog said a socket set i think its a 12 or 14 mm and a pair of needle nose pliers so that you can spin the piston back into place and be careful not to tare the boot if you doing fronts then you'll need the c-clamp but for the backs you don't. are you doing the fronts as well?

 

An org member posted this awhile back:

Rotor & Brade Pad Installation Notes
My notes from rotor and brake pad swap without disconnecting brake lines or bleeding brakes.

Brake Install Notes:

Tools/Equipment:

• Jack & Jack Stands
• Impact Wrench or Lug Nut Wrench
• 14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets & ratchet
• C-Clamp
• Rear Piston Compression Tool
• Mechanics Grease or Anti-Seize Grease
• Brake Cleaner
• Rubber Mallet


Front:

1. Put the car up on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
2. Remove the bolts holding the upper piece of the caliper on...14mm...these came off without any effort...slide the caliper off and hang it on the coil of the spring.
3. Remove the brake pads...they pop right off...pay attention to the way they are seated.
4. Remove bolts holding the lower piece of the caliper on...19mm...these require some elbow grease to remove, but I did not need any liquid wrench or a breaker bar...slide the second caliper piece off and set aside.
5. Remove the rotor...requires some rocking and tapping to remove...my stock rotors did NOT have a bolt hole easy removal so I did some light tapping on the back side with a mallet as I turned the rotor.
6. Install new rotor...clean up the wheel hub first and rub some grease around the hub to prevent the new rotor from rusting onto the hub like the stock one.
7. Reinstall lower piece of caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up 19mm bolts good and tight.
8. Install new brake pads...ensure that you remove the backing plates off the old pads and install them to the new pads.
9. Compress the piston on the upper piece of the caliper...loosen cap on the brake fluid resevoir by the driver's side strut tower in the engine bay to make piston compression possible...use a clamp and equally distribute pressure as you compress...watch for brake fluid overflow.
10. Reinstall upper piece of the caliper...clean it up first to remove all the brake dust...tighten up the 14mm bolts marginally (remember how easy they were to remove).


You're all done. Differences for the rears:

• You must remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off...underneath the caliper.
• Lower piece of caliper is held on by 17mm bolts instead of the 19mm on the front.
• Piston needs to be turned clockwise to be compressed...I suppose you could use pliers, but you can buy a small piston compression tool which hooks on to a ratchet and makes life really easy...the one they sell at Sears has a piston pattern which fits the rear calipers on the Maxima.
• Make sure you hook the emergency brake cable onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece as it will be hard to hook back on after the caliper is assembled.

 

Nothing more to say!!

 

I know how to take off that is common sence, My mechanic did whole rear brake job in less than 5 min both wheel and I payed 60 buck with cheap pad. that dude was so fast that I couldn't see what he doing,before I knew it he was done.the good things is I did see the ones that he took off.I don't under stand is where he put the grease and how I do turn that thing in the caliper? Do I line it up or do turn it unit tight. I had to pay him because I would have fail the inspection and loose the 37 dollars. now I just want to put better pad in.

 

Maybe you did not see the ones he took off because there were still on the car. He must work on a pit crew if he can do the whole job in under 5 minutes.

 

To reiterate what MaximaSe2002 said -- don't
try to compress the piston back into the caliper with
a C-clamp. It needs to be screwed back in. Just use
needle nose pliers or go to your local auto parts store
and spend $15 for the tool.

 

Thanks to everyone for all the brake info, especially Uconn411 for the repost!!

Bill

 

if had a video cameria i would the take the whole thing done, the reason I say he did replace the brake pad is becuause I right by lift safety area when he trow the old ones the floor and I pick it up and I examed them and had no pad on it. It only the showned metal and he a put a new one from the box which I examed and it was new. but he used a air gun wrench it must same alot of time. what every you call it. I right by lift and I couldn't catch up. belive or not it was true.