Well I'm on a quest. I want to break 200fwhp in my '96 auto. I will have y-pipe, b-pipe, muffler, high flow cat, UDP, Frankencar w/ Apex'i intake, and hopefully a Pathfinder TB. The question is, what else do I need? I can't go with a custom ECU since I will be running nitrous shortly afterwards, and I don't want to get a MEVI due to the high price and difficult installation.
Thanks,
-Cyrus

 

Ugh...but u can dream. It has to be possible, but short of internals? I'm thinking a whole engine overhaul, all the bolt ons, and maybe raised compression/race fuel. I take it u want an all motor Max? Cus a turbo/SC will take u well past 200. Also you would need somewhere around 240 at the crank. The 02-03 guys with an auto put down 200-215fwhp.


Look at what i found. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=186601
But its a manual

 

You won't get it without the MEVI. If you understand how horsepower is derived from torque, you'll see why...

 

Alright so if I add an MEVI, do you think it is possible? I am not willing to go into internals, but I have seen a few 190+ whp Maxs (even autos), I'm thinking it can't be that much more? My engine is in great shape, pulls as strong as ever and is always properly maintained. Yes I want all motor, I have a nitrous-oxide setup but I am hoping to use that past 200whp so I will be around 235whp.
-Cyrus

 

Auto 4th gens with the MEVI, JWT ECU, y-pipe, catback, UDP, and intake should make around 180-185fwhp/180fwtq. I watched BSwithTF make 183fwhp/181fwtq with all those mods and I believe that's the highest I've ever heard of for an NA VQ auto. On the same day I made 189fwhp/186fwtq with the MEVI, intake, y-pipe, UDP, and muffler on my 5 speed. I still haven't dynoed with my JWT ECU. I think 200fwhp is possible with the 5 speed with all the bolt-ons, but it will be hard for an auto simply because they loose about 10fwhp compared to a 5 speed with the same mods.


Dave

 

Well in all actuallity you can get the JWT with the nitrous program already in it but it cost quite a bit of money.

 

So you think it is possible for us 5 speeds?
Im waiting for my clutch to break in and then im planning to dyno.
My mods consist of UDP/CAI/Ypipe/Catback/Gforce ECU/ExedyStage1/Stillen Flywheel.

 

on my last NA dyno before i put the SC on i hit 200 fwhp. i would hardely say i had "all the bolt ons".

i guess i forgot to change my sig.



--Paul

 

remove fartcan

 

Paul:

What did you do differently this go around? I remember your prior dyno was 195fwhp. Did you remove the 17s and put the 15s back on? I'm going to try and dyno this weekend with the same exact combo plus my stock 15s.


Dave

 

Dave...

yes all i changed on this from the 195hp run was the wheels. those 17s are bricks. with the 15s on i picked up roughly 6fwhp and 5fwtq..not to mention the added driveability. the car drives soo much better with the 15s on. the clutch engagement and accelertion/torque is so nice.

--Paul

 

So do you think I have hope? With all the bolts ons except MEVI and ECU, but with a Pathfinder TB? My engine is in great condition, faster than other autos with the same mods. Do you think it is possible?
Thanks,
-Cyrus

 

I thought the larger throttle body would really only benefit those with F/I since this allows them to push more air through?

 

Cyrus, i would get your car on the dyno the way it sits and go from there. everyones car is a little different so its hard to say "do this do that, put this on yada yada" and you wil have 200. see how close you are to 200 and then add stuff accordingly.

--Paul

 

Sweet.

Well there you guys have it. Going from 40lb 15" rims to 52lb 17" rims will suck out about 6fwhp and 5fwtq. Someone should make this it's own thread.


Dave

 

You're going to have to get the MEVI/JWT ECU if you want to be quicker. There's no way around it. It's an easy install too, just time consuming. 200whp is great and all, but the MEVI/JWT ECU adds quite a bit more "power under the curve" and that's really what counts.

BTW, why do you think your auto is quicker than others with the same mods? Have you gone to the track or dynoed yet.


Dave

 

Hmmm.... I guess I will have to dyno with my 32lb 15" front wheels instead of my 53lb 17's.

 

Im hoping for 210 fwhp this winter Have lighter rims, not going to have power steering and will have JWECU.

 

interesting thread....good job fellas

 

Peak dyno numbers are great and all, but all you need to do is get on a dyno that reads notoriously high and you will "have 200whp". Just because a dyno says you have XXX hp doesn't really mean you are making any more power than anyone else, so the claim of having 200whp means nothing.

I'm nowhere close to 200whp, my last dyno was like 185whp and 175wtq on a dynojet. And yet cars that put down more power on the dyno still stare at my taillights.

What I'm getting at is don't get hung up on peak HP numbers because they mean absolutely nothing. All they signify is that a dyno reads high. Someone else could have more power than you and have lower dyno numbers just because they dyno'd on a different machine.

Also, how do you expect to get 200whp in a cost effective manner if you shun the idea of getting the two mods that are probably the most helpful N/A mods out there (besides Y-pipe), MEVI and JWT ECU. I dare say you'll never see 200whp without these two things and cams on a 4th gen auto. So getting 200whp cheaply on an N/A 4th gen auto is not going to happen.

 

exhaust cut out would be simple and really powerful, bout 50 bux installed and and they are said to give .3 in the quarter on stock exhausts

smaller and lighter wheels

grounding kits


cmon people, lets think out side the box, we need a broader vision for our mods

 

You'll be lucky to see a 0.05 second drop in ET with a cutout. The Maximas B-pipe/cat/muffler aren't that restrictive. The y-pipe is the problem.

Smaller and lighter wheels will always help, especially on the auto. Smaller diameter tires increase the gearing a lot and gearing is what an auto needs.

Grounding kits are todays "snake oil". They do nothing if your OEM grounds in good shape.


Dave

 

in addition, do some basic maintance will help you with couple horses. regularly clean air filter, IAC valve, throttle body, knock sensor. check all sparks, O2s, alternator, knock sensor, battery.

other minor stuff you can try out probably like high-flow cat, light weight wheels, direct cold air draw from headlight (probably not gonna work too well on dyno cuz you are standing still), and apexi s-afc.

just throwing out ideas.

 

It gives you something to do when your bored at work and have a bunch of wire laying around, though.

 

That's what I like to see. Somebody thinking outside the box. Forget that 200 figure. There's nothing more magical about 195 vs 205 vs 200 is there? As for that 210fwhp, it's gonna be tough but given enough time...

 

I think I misstated my info. My car is by no means a factory freak, just that it runs in top condition. I have run against my friend's auto which has all regular maintainance, pulling no codes and I clearly pulled away from him.

It's not a matter of cheap, rather that I will be spraying nitrous so I do not want to advance timing with a JWT ECU.

I can/probably will invest in an MEVI if it helps me reach my goal, but I know I will not be able to take full advantage of it without the ECU.

I know numbers do not signify performance, this is just a little personal barrier I want to break. I am not expecting my car to be a N/A speed freak or anything of the sort, just trying to break 200whp. Were I trying to run fast times I would definitely have looked into weight reduction by now. By the way I will be running soon spraying a 50-shot, still only expecting 14.6s (which seem very plausible at this point) granted everything runs right.
-Cyrus

 

For $400 extra you can have the nitrous control board put in your JWT ECU as well.

 

About how much is the stock whp? ~150? Going for Budget y-pipe next

 

I would believe the dyno going high for me but i dynoed with about 12 z's stock ,and modded.They put down between 230-240 stock. I guess if im on a high dyno ,than they are 15 to 20 less than that according to you.
It could be you dynoed low . I will dyno again soon to see if anything changed.

 

I very well may have dyno'd low. Some people suspect that as their numbers were lower than they expected that day too. You never really know unless you dyno on like 5 machines and see what the average is.

The same thing goes with Z dynos, I've seen them as high as 244whp (briguymax's) and as low as like 225. That's why I don't like dynos except for tuning purposes because you can't compare the dynos of 2 different vehicles on 2 different machines with any modicum of certainty that they are dynoing where they are "supposed to".

I guess dyno numbers are nice to have but just remember that performance is what we all go for. We could all go dyno on an uncalibrated machine that says we are all making 220 to the wheels but if our cars are still slow what's the point. I say focus more on performance, even if you are not ever going to go to the track or race others, rather than an arbitrary dyno # which may or may not be accurate. It comes down to the question would you rather have the most powerful maxima in the real world or just have the claim to fame of 200whp.

 

I think it has more to do with wheel diameter than wheel weight. Smaller diameter wheels lowers the gear ratio thus keeping the engine in its most efficient power band range.

 

newb, dont you realize this is a NINE YEAR OLD THREAD.

 

you are:

a) very wrong
b) posting in a thread that is nearly a decade old

come on now...

 

LOL this is some OLD ****!

NOOBS

 

 

Lol old but intresting info in here guys.

 

But still..... to the noob!

 

NAWS