I know the basics, such as don't boost heavy or anything till 1000+ miles, don't drive at the same speed for long times, change oil at 100miles then maybe 300ish, 500ish, 1000ish THEN switch to synthetic.

but the very first time it is started, any special things to do to "prime" it with oil? should it only run for a few seconds the first start and shut it off?

 

built maxima??? dude whats going on?

 

this is a damn tease and YOU KNOW IT!

 

hush it. I'm asking a question, not making a statement

 

If I remember right, when the motor is reassembly, your suppose to be putting lube oil on pretty much all the moving parts inside the motor, so you have at least something on the parts when you start up. Other than that, pretty much it's like starting the car after an oil change. It will take a few seconds for the oil to start circulating. I was also reading up on my chilton's manual, you may also make sure that the oil pump is packed with petroleum jelly, to prevent it from cavitating when you startup.

S

 

There should be assembly lube and other lubs all over the inside (cams, etc). Otherwise they'll be oil starved at startup.

As for break in...I've read several different methods. Drive easy, beat the crap out of it, etc. Never having a new engine...I dunno.

Sounds interesting though!

 

i don't know but try breaking in a 350 z like the before mentioned article and you will come back with bent valves. seen a few 350z sitting at the dealership ticking away.

 

more than likely those were beeten to crap constintly. the article does not say to just go run the **** out of the engine it has a spacific way of seating the ring which has nothing to do with the valves they broboly bounced revlimiter alot not knowing how to shift or somthing

 

If bouncing the rev limiter isnt safe at 6600 rpms, then how is reving a motor to 7000+ on a flashed ECU safe? seems fishy....

 

i was thinking of that post about break in procedure of a motor in the general forum.

what ever the case may be.


the article says something to the effect of drive it hard. or put the car on a dyno. this is not the case for all motors as the z motor get very hairy when you do any sort of spirited driving before the 1000 mile break in.

i work at a dealership and this is what i see.

 

it is safe on a normal broken in engine but i wouldnt do it to a brand new engine. maybe the valve springs need to be broken in also and some of the valves flowted and hit the pistons its very possible.

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

yup those techniques would lead to a few z owners with there z in service department with around a couple thousand miles on the motor with what sounds to be a very loud valve tick.

one of the sales men here had that happen and he said he did a few 4th gear pulls on the freeway.

 

I think my dad's Chevy 2500HD had a computer controlled break-in period. he said that when it hit a certian mileage it was like a whole different truck. I can't imagine driving around for a month at 50% power then, bam, gob of torque (it has the 8.1L).

This doesn't really help if you replaced your motor though.

 

Take out the distributor and put a socket on the oil pump and prime the motor

Use a high quality assembly lube, prime the oil filter, and start it up. The lifters should all be primed, from the build, if they aren't go back and make sure they are.

 

Also do some pulls to ~redline in the gears, mainly 3rd and 4th if you can find room.

That will give the rings a good firm seating. Since the motor is going to see boost, you might as well turn it up a psi or two every 1-2 hundred miles until 1000-1200miles where you can run your normal boost level with out any bad feelings what so ever.

You should have one really happy, boost friendly motor by the time your done.