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Need help deciding on new front brake setup...

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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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Need help deciding on new front brake setup...

It's time for new front brakes and I need help deciding on a setup. My car is used daily and goes to the dragstrip (but no autocross) occasionally. I drive rather aggresively and hate the mushy pedal feel and poor braking I currently have. My eventual plans include:
Front: upgraded rotors and pads, rebuilt calipers, stainless lines, flush and replace brake fluid
Back: convert drums to discs and match setup with front setup, stainless lines, flush and replace brake fluid

I have the time and money right now to upgrade the fronts and I am looking at pads and rotors right now. For pads I am deciding between Raybestos Ceramic and EBC Greenstuff. For rotors I am deciding between Powerslot ProStop II (slotted and dimpled) and Brembo (slotted).

Which pads and rotors should I use and where should I buy them from?
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:19 AM
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I just put raybestos pro-stops or quiet stops and slotted Brembos, they stop ona dime and do not squeak at all. Go Bearcats!
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:25 AM
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just curious, have you considered upgrading the rotors?

Both Matt and Jeffy have 'kits' avaliable. Matt's is for a 12.6" rotor, Jeff's is for a 13" cobra rotor. I believe you could use your stock caliper aswell.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGone
just curious, have you considered upgrading the rotors?

Both Matt and Jeffy have 'kits' avaliable. Matt's is for a 12.6" rotor, Jeff's is for a 13" cobra rotor. I believe you could use your stock caliper aswell.
I'm still on the stock wheels, so I want something that will fit the stock rims. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think those rotors fit under the stock wheels. Also, big brake kits are a bit out of my price range and probably not necessary for the driving I do, although they would be sweet.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul89SE
I just put raybestos pro-stops or quiet stops and slotted Brembos, they stop ona dime and do not squeak at all. Go Bearcats!
Thanks for the feedback. Bobby Hugs has quite a team this year, huh? I can't wait till March Madness. Anyways, where did you buy the pads and rotors and how much did they cost?
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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cobra rotors wont, Matt's kit might clear stock wheels since you'd be using stock calipers(or he'll quote this and say "what are you crazy") hehehhe.

I have 300zx brakes that I'm waiting to install, I need to find some wheels to clear them, but the problem is I need to find someone who will give me a heck of a deal. I'm just going to use the stock rotors which have been trimmed down 2-3mm so everything will just bolt right up. The thing with Z brakes is making sure the wheels will clear the calipers because they are so much wider compared to stock.

Davebond007 said I have some EBC pads (greens), and he got all excited saying they are supposed to be some really really good (and agressive) pads. I just scrolled up and it looks like your trying to decide between the Raybestos or EBCs, I'll put in a vote for EBC just because of Dave's reaction

Personally I think I'm just going to get some pads with a lifetime warrenty so I can just replace them for free.


*EDIT* the EBC Greens are on the 300zx calipers so I dont have any experience with them just wanted to make sure you knew that.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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The Raybestos pads were $35 at Pepboys and I got the rotors off of Ebay for $100. You could get them a lot cheaper through Internetautomar.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:48 PM
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oops, I forgot to say buy from Brian (internetautomar)
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:57 PM
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I put EBC Greenstuff on my car several years ago. The dusted like mad but they had excellent fade resistance and grip once they warmed up. I have used Porterfield's, Performance Friction, OEM, and Raybestos. The EBCs were easily the best of the bunch.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:05 PM
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Also, Henrick has cross drilled and slotted rotors for sale in the 1st -3rd gen for sale forums. Just look for a post about rotors, by MaxedUp. I will probably be purchasing from him at the end of the month, that is if internetautomar can't get me a better deal.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:15 PM
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Just thought I would add that Henrick's deal is for Brembo, cross drilled and slotted rotors. And that if you go to his website, he has 12 different patterns to choose from. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267637
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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Okay, looks like I'm going to be going with EBC Greenstuff and Brembo rotors from maxed up. The Brembo rotors seem to be pretty well priced compared to some other prices I have seen but I don't know what I should expect to pay for the the EBC Greenstuff pads and where I should buy them.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gjohnson
Just thought I would add that Henrick's deal is for Brembo, cross drilled and slotted rotors. And that if you go to his website, he has 12 different patterns to choose from. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=267637
As a reminder.
Those rotors started life as Brembo blanks and someone other than brembo did the cross drilling and making the pointless patterns.
When rotors are slotted they are usually done so in the interest of better braking hence the reason why 95% of them look the same!
The slotted ones that he is selling are a "Bling bling" thing with little to no useful purpose and quiet possibly detrimental to the overall brake setup.
just my .02 feel free to disagree.

What the heck is a "bling" and why would I want 2?
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 07:23 PM
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1. Greenstuff pads are good, but for what you're doing, they're a bit of overkill. Personally, I would spend a few $$ less and buy some Wagner or Raybestos pads from a local parts store and get the lifetime warranty. the EBCs are a better pad, but unless you go harder than Auto X or live in the mountains, you won't see much benefit in the extra money.

2. DO NOT get drilled rotors! blanks or slotted only!

3. my brake kit will NOT fit 3rd gen factory wheels. it should fit under stock Z32 wheels without much problem though. probably won't fit many 16s, but will clear diamete-wise on most 17s. the front spoke clearance is the big issue there..
It will also NOT fit 3rd gen calipers. the 5th gen are larger calipers and will fit on the rotors without a problem. I've got a prototype bracket made for the 2004 rotors and 2000 calipers, but no final product yet. (should be out in a couple weeks)
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
As a reminder.
Those rotors started life as Brembo blanks and someone other than brembo did the cross drilling and making the pointless patterns.
When rotors are slotted they are usually done so in the interest of better braking hence the reason why 95% of them look the same!
The slotted ones that he is selling are a "Bling bling" thing with little to no useful purpose and quiet possibly detrimental to the overall brake setup.
just my .02 feel free to disagree.

What the heck is a "bling" and why would I want 2?

Well, Brian what do you have along the same lines.(Slotted only, per Matt's advice.) I'm looking for Front and rear, I would love to do the upgraded rotors that Matt has in the works, but don't see the need since my Max only goes to work and back, 8 miles away.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 10:22 PM
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Sheesh sounds like my drive.
Personnally I'd just put on some brembo blanks and a good set of pads.
The slots won't help much nor are they neccessary for our "light" driving
I'll check on a price monday. (if i remember)
Shoot me an e-mail internetautomart@comcast.net
to remind me.
Old Jan 3, 2004 | 11:00 PM
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Looks like I've changed my mind. Brembo blanks and Raybestos Ceramics here I come. With the money I save I can get the brake lines and the brake fluid as well. Thanks all for the help.
Old Jan 4, 2004 | 06:20 AM
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If you can find dot 5.1 (NOT Dot 5 plain)
that is a nice little fluid upgrade.
Let me know what you think of the raybestos ceramics.
I can get them just don't have em on my site.
Old Jan 4, 2004 | 08:46 AM
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I've been using the raybestos for a while on my car.. friction is lower than many pads, but there is ZERO dust and they're great for long-lasting. fade resistance is pretty good, but they don't do squat for anything more than auto X-- at least on my brake setup. when I go to track events, I'll swtich to a hotter compound pad. for around town and auto X use, the raybestos will be great..
Old Jan 4, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
2. DO NOT get drilled rotors! blanks or slotted only!

Matt, school me! Why should I not get drilled rotors, or drilled and slotted rotors.
Old Jan 4, 2004 | 10:17 PM
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drilled rotors after a few months of stop and go traffic will be CRACKED rotors.

they have serious cracking issues, especially in tulsa where it's 90 and sunny one day, then 35 and raining the next. they don't like having water splashed on them at all.
Old Jan 5, 2004 | 07:11 PM
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note to self: get slotted rotors next time
Old Jan 9, 2004 | 11:21 AM
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Hey Brian I sent you a reminder email.
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 08:32 AM
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I'm going on 9 months with slotted and drilled rotors with no problem. I don't care if they don't last as long, I can put standard blank rotors on for $7 a piece through my friend.
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 09:10 AM
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but what KIND of rotors are they for $7??

Just remember, you get what you pay for. $7 is mostly the cost of shipping from China, so they're not putting much into the rotor itself..
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 10:55 AM
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Raybestos i think, my buddy works at Smyth automotive and sells them for 30% below cost to "special" customers.
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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Raybestos isn't bad.. not the best, but it'll work for street driving. make sure you have a set handy for when those drilled rotors crack...
I used to say the same thing as you- until about the 1 year mark.. then small cracks.. larger cracks... then finally one large enough to stick my fingernail in. time to throw them away then.
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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but don't the holes make such a nice place for rust to start forming?
Old Jan 10, 2004 | 11:02 PM
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most drilled rotors are zinc/Cad plated, so they shouldn't rust in the holes and such like that.. There's usually enough brake dust and junk crammed in the holes to prevent rust anyway.
Old Jan 11, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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What are the real advantages with going with slotted or drilled rotors over blank ones. Is it just heat disapation.
Old Jan 12, 2004 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Gjohnson
What are the real advantages with going with slotted or drilled rotors over blank ones. Is it just heat disapation.
Yeah, better heat dissapation. The x-d'd ones vent the gases from the pad friction material through the rotor, while the slotted ones vent it out on top of the rotor.

I'd go with slotted because they're aren't prone to cracking.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 11:03 PM
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I'm not Matt, but I believe cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to warp under high temperature. I've heard/read 2 reasons for slotted; 1) to release gases between rotor/pad 2) better friction. I'm not sure about the truth between the 2.

I'm in the market for new pads/rotors. I was thinking of getting Brembo rotors up front ($100/pair) and Raybestos Pro Grade in the rear ($22/pair from rockauto). Most places charge about $15 to turn a rotor so I figure I just get new ones in the back. I can save the old ones and get them turned later.

I'm still up in the air about pads. I'm tempted to get Raybestos Quiet Stop up front ($50). I'm looking for minimum dust & noise; oh yeah, they gotta give this "passive" driver some good braking power.
Old Jan 14, 2004 | 11:26 PM
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drilled or slotted rotors really don't do squat for performance at the temps a street car runs. if you get up to track temps, then you might start seeing a difference.

drilled rotors don't really do squat even on the cooling. they're whizzing around in the air so fast, the holes really don't get a chance to suck much air in. they also get full of brake dust and don't move air anyway. it's really all just cosmetics on street cars. no point in doing it other than to LOOK like it's fast. (just like stickers on Honduhs)
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by jaymez619
I'm not Matt, but I believe cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to warp under high temperature. I've heard/read 2 reasons for slotted; 1) to release gases between rotor/pad 2) better friction. I'm not sure about the truth between the 2.

I'm in the market for new pads/rotors. I was thinking of getting Brembo rotors up front ($100/pair) and Raybestos Pro Grade in the rear ($22/pair from rockauto). Most places charge about $15 to turn a rotor so I figure I just get new ones in the back. I can save the old ones and get them turned later.

I'm still up in the air about pads. I'm tempted to get Raybestos Quiet Stop up front ($50). I'm looking for minimum dust & noise; oh yeah, they gotta give this "passive" driver some good braking power.
Since you appear to be new here. I'll give you a tip.
www.internetautomart.com
If it ain't listed ask, They can probably get it anyways

Rumor has it he's a nice guy
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:33 AM
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He's actually a jerk.. don't buy from him
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:32 AM
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Brian Matt
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 08:55 AM
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hehehe
hey, lemme know when the 2k4 Max rotors are available.
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 09:00 AM
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I will, I keep bothering the manufacturer about em
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Raybestos isn't bad.. not the best, but it'll work for street driving. make sure you have a set handy for when those drilled rotors crack...
I used to say the same thing as you- until about the 1 year mark.. then small cracks.. larger cracks... then finally one large enough to stick my fingernail in. time to throw them away then.

You live in Texas though, it probably had to do with the heat.
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 10:30 AM
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Umm, I've only been in TX about 4 months..
They actually started cracking in the winter too. they go bad pretty quickly when you splash water on them all the time from rain.



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