Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

SH*T, I think there is water in my motor oil...

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Old Feb 15, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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SH*T, I think there is water in my motor oil...

I used a rather cheap motor oil on my new motor. I changed the oil 3 times in under 100 miles.

I changed it 30 or so minutes after runing at idle and ~3500 rpm.

I changed it again afetr about 2 hrs of idiling and slow driving in a neighborhood.

I changed it a 3rd time and then drove it ~80 miles and put Mobil1 in.

Well when I changed the oil ,it seemed thin. VERY thin. At the end of the oil draining out of the plug it almost looked like water.

I poured an extra QT in while the plug was out and it looked thin, but got thick.

I am having some white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and it sort of smeels of oil, however there is no il coming out of the exhaust.... as best as I can tell.

This motor sat for at least 18 months, beofore it was started by me.

Now, I checked the dip stick and there appears to be water on it. It's black, but super thin like water. It has some greasiness to it, but not like Mobil 1.

I am gonna change the oil again, I am ****ting my pants here. i am scared the block is cracked and water from the radiator is leaking into the clyinder.

I can't find any leaks anywhere on the motor showing oil or coolant.

What if aything can I do?

If I nned to check something else let me know.

Thanks
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:15 PM
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oh man, sorry to hear.
if water was leaking in enough to sufficiently thin the oil, then you should notice the oil level rising. Thats really yhe only thing you can do without pressure/leakdown checking the cooling system
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:18 PM
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I would definately do a pressure check. Sorry to hear that man... i know you've put a lot of work into it.
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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you can DIY a pressure check, just get 2 round pipe caps from a hardware store that fit snugly inside your radiator hoses. Drill a hole in one and put a tire valve stem in it, then pressureize it with an AC, you can read the pressure with a tire gauge, just be careful not to let out much air when checking it.
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:41 PM
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well in pulling the plugs, I found the rear center cylinder FULL of oil.

The gasket around the valve cover has come off. I wonder if maybe that is where the water is coming from?

The oil in that clyinder was pretty thick, but not as thick as it should be.

What really blows about this is, I changed them while I had the motor out. oh well, guess I'll take it easy until I get some time to rip the manifold off.

Also I may very well be sucking it in through the filter on the turbo. I do not have any under plastic on. Those black plastic parts that cove rup the underside of the motor form the road.

Thanks fellas, I may have that checked. I am gonna check a few things first.

Let's say there was water in it. From when it was sitting, and not leaking into the motor. How would I get it out?
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 07:48 PM
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if there was water in the block from sitting, changin the oil 3 times should have taken care of it
if a cylinder is full of oil, sorry to say, i think you are screwed man. if the valve cover gasket is off, it shouldnt let in any water, because there are no coolant passages there.

have you tried dipping some white paper into your coolant to see if it was discolored?
Old Feb 15, 2004 | 09:09 PM
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[QUOTE=bags533]well in pulling the plugs, I found the rear center cylinder FULL of oil.

Yea, sounds like a bad head gasket to me. The water passages and oil passages can be quite close. If it is blown, water can get into the oil that way, but you would get oil in your coolant too. Makes sense that you have oil in your cylinder too, but you would def be burning mad oil if it were full. Only a pressure check on your coolant or taking the heads off can tell the truth.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 04:42 AM
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well if their was water in the oil, then it would not look like oil since as we all know water and oil does not mix. In stead the two substances would gut highly emulsified by the oil pump an it would look like a thick foamy whiteish brown mess. So happy to say that does not sound consistant with water in the oil. Secondly on the oil in the cylender thing, are you saying there is actually oil in the cylender? and if so how an you tell? Or is there oil in the spark plug well that could be caused gy a bad O-ring that could have been caused by the engine sitting up? I would not start ****ting in your pants guiet yet there Ba(one G)s. What weight motor oil are you useing? ALso we all know that the viscosity of morot oil changes as it gets hot, and hot motor oil will pour out like water, but I know you have changed oil before. But as I stated before if it was black then you did not have water in your oil.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by plurco
well if their was water in the oil, then it would not look like oil since as we all know water and oil does not mix. In stead the two substances would gut highly emulsified by the oil pump an it would look like a thick foamy whiteish brown mess. So happy to say that does not sound consistant with water in the oil. Secondly on the oil in the cylender thing, are you saying there is actually oil in the cylender? and if so how an you tell? Or is there oil in the spark plug well that could be caused gy a bad O-ring that could have been caused by the engine sitting up? I would not start ****ting in your pants guiet yet there Ba(one G)s. What weight motor oil are you useing? ALso we all know that the viscosity of morot oil changes as it gets hot, and hot motor oil will pour out like water, but I know you have changed oil before. But as I stated before if it was black then you did not have water in your oil.
I agree with everything Plurco is saying here.

When you noticed that your oil was thin, was the oil hot? Oil loses viscosity very fast with a temperature increase.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 06:14 AM
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I agree with plurco too, but only if the oil was looked at shortly after being driven. If the vehicle sat for a suffiecient amount of time, the mixture would seperate.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 08:03 AM
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Yeah, if there is indeed water in your oil, you would get oil that kinda looks like chocolate milk, or a chocolate shake. I had the unfortune of a cracked head gasket on my old ranger, and coolant got into the engine oil. So I wouldn't neccessarily panick yet. What weight oil are you using? Also...are you loosing coolant? That's a good indication of coolant getting into the oil.

S
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by plurco
well if their was water in the oil, then it would not look like oil since as we all know water and oil does not mix. In stead the two substances would gut highly emulsified by the oil pump an it would look like a thick foamy whiteish brown mess. So happy to say that does not sound consistant with water in the oil. Secondly on the oil in the cylender thing, are you saying there is actually oil in the cylender? and if so how an you tell? Or is there oil in the spark plug well that could be caused gy a bad O-ring that could have been caused by the engine sitting up? I would not start ****ting in your pants guiet yet there Ba(one G)s. What weight motor oil are you useing? ALso we all know that the viscosity of morot oil changes as it gets hot, and hot motor oil will pour out like water, but I know you have changed oil before. But as I stated before if it was black then you did not have water in your oil.

No, it looks black like oil, but thin like water. I may try and get a good pic of it. It loooks that way on the dipstick. And when I drained the oil the last time before putting in the mobil one.

I very well may have been sucking in water "mist", from the road and throught hte head light.

On the oil in the cylinder, I was talking about the o-ring in the valve cover gasket where the spark plug goes.

The spark plug was covered in oil, I could barley see the tip, and the coil pack had a good amount on the lower portion. And it was thicker than what is on the dipstick.

Thanks yall.. making me feel better.

5w30 mobil one. 1st time EVER using mobil 1 5w30.

I should have that o ring changed by friday and drained the oil and putting more mobil 1 back in.

On the coolant, I will double check. I am not sure if I am loosing any. the level of oil was Lower than when I filled it. But I am sure that is due to some being in thte valve cover and cylinder.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 09:50 AM
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dude you are fine. BTW I know our cars call for 5W30 but that is for a colder climate then we have in the south. 10W30 is a far better weight oil to use down here. BTW I went for over a year with my o-ring leaking.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 10:08 AM
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Yeah, that oil is coming from the valve cover. You have nothing to worry about at all. Your level is probably lower from the oil that leaking from the valve cover. Might as well do all your valve covers and grommets.

S
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by plurco
dude you are fine. BTW I know our cars call for 5W30 but that is for a colder climate then we have in the south. 10W30 is a far better weight oil to use down here. BTW I went for over a year with my o-ring leaking.

I am still not convinced, but I am not all flustered anymore either. Thanks very much.. edit BTW it is not against you, just my luck as of late

And maximase86 I did ALL the gromets when I changed the motor.

I think I may not have installed that one correctly.

I thought 5w30 was better for turbos?
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by plurco
dude you are fine. BTW I know our cars call for 5W30 but that is for a colder climate then we have in the south. 10W30 is a far better weight oil to use down here. BTW I went for over a year with my o-ring leaking.

To hell with that (10w30). I use 0w40 Mobil 1 personally. Analysis from Blackstone tells me that my engine is actually well under all wear markers...so I'm going to stick with it.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 12:22 PM
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is your collant running low, is there any oil in there? Also does your exhaust smell sweet? You could have a blown headgasket, do a compression test. Either way if it's a blown headgasket, bad valve guides (wouldn't cause water in the oil), cracked head, I would say get a new motor since vq30de is a cheapo motor.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ABK
is your collant running low, is there any oil in there? Also does your exhaust smell sweet? You could have a blown headgasket, do a compression test. Either way if it's a blown headgasket, bad valve guides (wouldn't cause water in the oil), cracked head, I would say get a new motor since vq30de is a cheapo motor.

I just changed the motor.. did compression test 2 weeks ago and it was 190-205 in all 6

Exhaust smells like burnt oil
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:00 PM
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Well he just put in a new motor.....that's the thing. :P He's fine though, from the sounds of it, the problem he really has is just one of the grommets leaking. :P

S
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:03 PM
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I *JUST* saw that in the store.

Supposedly, what Euro cars recommend. I'm seriously considering giving it a try.

Is your report in Bills' list?

Originally Posted by Quicksilver
To hell with that (10w30). I use 0w40 Mobil 1 personally. Analysis from Blackstone tells me that my engine is actually well under all wear markers...so I'm going to stick with it.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bags533
I just changed the motor.. did compression test 2 weeks ago and it was 190-205 in all 6

Exhaust smells like burnt oil


are you pulling any codes? it sounds like maybe a blown headgasket to me as well.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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I guess I really lucked out. I just installed a new engine with 18K miles that had been sitting up for 6 years. I have since put 5K+ miles on it with zero issues.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 02:14 PM
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Check your radiator fluid to see if there are any signs of oil in the coolant. Coolant-oil leaks are rarely one way. Also post pics of the used oil that is thin. Let some sit overnight. If there is water in it it will sperate and you will be able to see a layer of coolant on the surface of the oil. It would take a significant amount of coolant to make a noticeable difference in viscosity. Hope this helps and good luck. I just finished a motor rebuild myself so I know what your going through.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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looked at the coolant, it looks green as per norm. but that was in the top of the radiator.


jake- I pull like 7 codes..lol... have not checked that in the past 3 days or the compression

I find it hard that I blew a headgasket in basicly 1 week of driving and not driving hard at all
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Quicksilver
To hell with that (10w30). I use 0w40 Mobil 1 personally. Analysis from Blackstone tells me that my engine is actually well under all wear markers...so I'm going to stick with it.
Where do you live? Do you get 100 degree weather every day during the summer with lots of humidity? With the heat from a turbo, idiling in bumper to bumper traffic, and a hundred degree weather, I think I will stick with a thicker oil.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bags533
looked at the coolant, it looks green as per norm. but that was in the top of the radiator.


jake- I pull like 7 codes..lol... have not checked that in the past 3 days or the compression

I find it hard that I blew a headgasket in basicly 1 week of driving and not driving hard at all

yeah you're probably right about the head gasket not being blown. if it was blown, your compression would have been lower. how much is your car smoking? is it just at idle or is it while driving as well? I have an extra motor just in case you need one. lets pray it doesn't come to that.
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by slizan99
yeah you're probably right about the head gasket not being blown. if it was blown, your compression would have been lower. how much is your car smoking? is it just at idle or is it while driving as well? I have an extra motor just in case you need one. lets pray it doesn't come to that.


it smokes off and on. Less the more I drove today. I was being super careful trying to stay out of boost until I fix the grommet.

It's normally when I get into it, 1/2 throttle +, and then after I let off.

And if I need another motor, I'll be needing another car.. Thansk for the offer BTW.

Making it to dyno day?
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bags533
it smokes off and on. Less the more I drove today. I was being super careful trying to stay out of boost until I fix the grommet.

It's normally when I get into it, 1/2 throttle +, and then after I let off.

And if I need another motor, I'll be needing another car.. Thansk for the offer BTW.

Making it to dyno day?

hopefully it goes away the more the motor gets broken back in. I don't think my new 5speed and clutch will be broken in for dyno day, but i might come by to hang out
Old Feb 16, 2004 | 06:42 PM
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Man I know what that is :-) Make sure your sparkplug is tight in that well. In my car I got oil leaking past my sparkplug into the cylender while it was sitting. WHen I started it up it would smoke white smoke for a couple minutes then pretty much go away.
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
I *JUST* saw that in the store.

Supposedly, what Euro cars recommend. I'm seriously considering giving it a try.

Is your report in Bills' list?

I never even knew Bill had a list I guess I'll have to send it to him...
Old Feb 17, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by spanishrice
Where do you live? Do you get 100 degree weather every day during the summer with lots of humidity? With the heat from a turbo, idiling in bumper to bumper traffic, and a hundred degree weather, I think I will stick with a thicker oil.

I live in one of the worst traffic cities in the entire world...Atlanta. We do have tons of humidity during the summer (actually all year long), but temps never really get in the 100's for long periods of time. We have plenty of consecutive 90 degree days, though (usually 60+ days in a row w/ 90 deg temps).

And thicker oil is not necessarily better. Synthetics can be thin and still protect and cool just as well as thicker oils, which is why I'm currently using this oil.
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