I've read up somewhere that it is better to save up the extra extra $$ and buy a used SC rather than buying intake and exhaust etc. etc. But can the used SC really be trusted? Will I encounter problems early in the future?

 

Anything is possible. Just have extra money and patience on hand if that does happen. Its been said, "If you wanna play you gotta pay".

 

I got mine used... but until the install is finished, I wont know if its all good.. but from inspection, every LOOKS alright. The main thing is to talk to the person and do your research ahead of time, and if possible, go and PICKUP the items of interest. That way, you can inspect the items firsthand, plus if you need to you can always go back to where you got it, and knock the guy out if he jipped you

 

I have one used kit for sale check out my sig

a lot of peeps here upgrade their kit with BOV, metal tensioner and idler pulley, smaller SC pulley. Compared to a new kit, you are actually getting a lot more goodies and avoiding some potential problems that comes with stock kit - i.e. melting plastic pulley or need to modifying the mounting plate for smaller SC pulley to fit.

 

Plus, isn't it only like $450 or so to rebuild the blower?

I know it's a hassle dealing with Vortech, but it's not too big a deal if it leaks. You just won't get as much boost unless you rebuild.

 

maxi: The blower needs to be rebuilt? How much you asking for it?

S

 

I was NOT talking about anyone in particular.

 

it depends what kinda work they need to get done. I think Jay25 got his bearing and seal replaced for low $300 plus shipping IIRC.

to deal with vortech - I learned about this after reading several threads on past Vortech experience on .org
1.dont tell them you have a MAxima SC - they will send you back to Stillen and Stillen will send you back to vortech.
2.tell them you have a V1 or V2 blower that's going back for inspection and rebuild
3.tell them the blower will be stripped, no pulley no mounting bracket.

 

my kit is in good working condition and the blower does not need to be rebuilt. I am asking for $2600 include metal pulleys, BOV and 2 SC pulleys.

 

$5 dolla.

Trade you for some JICs?

 

Cool....had me a little confused there. :P Also IIRC, iansw had his exchanged for like 900 for a polished V2....I guess if you want to trade your V1 in that might not be too bad a deal. I know Ian was very happy with the trade, no leaks or noise!

S

 

If you want more power, go V1, if you want less noise, go V2... thats basically the jest of it? =]

 

v2 makes more power, 1 psi.

 

Bought my V2 used, can't justify paying retail for the S/C since only a few people sell it new they are way too damn expensive. Used kit is definitley the way to go!

 

Where do you get that info from? i have a dyno sheet showing gains of 30+ ftlb tq from a switch of V2 SC trim to a V1 STrim. I realize that the SQ and the SC are a little different, but they are but using helical cut gears, vs the straight cut gears of the v1, thus providing less flow. Also, the impellar blades of the SC is a little smaller in diameter than the Strim. I believe the SQ was made to make LESS noise for better daily driveability, sacrificing a little bit of flow for that. If you have proof of the V2 performing better V1 ( no changes other than S/Cs) please show me. I don't believe it

 

how is that possible to gain 30lbs if your v2 was working well?

vortech site shows the v2Sc trim has a superior impeller speed.

 

ARE YOU STILL SELLING GAUGES, IF SO WHAT BRAND AND HOW MUCH

 

So wheres your proof? I have a dyno sheet right in front of me. Are you just saying that V2 is better than V1 because 2 > 1??? Or that it has the greater impeller speed? Next thing, you are going to say that it can do 20 PSI huh Just playin...

Actually... go measure the diamater of your impeller blades... The V1's should be larger (1/2 -1 inch?). That in itself would provide much more flow, providing more air per revolution.

 

i had both v1 and v2 the v2 seems like it runs a little better, could be that the noise level of the v1 makes it seem faster. but v2 all the way..
but with the upgrades its hard tell unless it was dynod before and after
which i did not do..

 

haha. stephenmax told me the v2 can produce more power when he did my install. THAT is my proof

upload the dyno though.

 

yes, I am still selling them.
here is the link to my FS thread : http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=275194

I have a'pexi EGT gauge
a'pexi mechanical boost gauge
Defi electric fuel pressure gauge
autometer tranny temp.

the price is listed in my FS thread.

thx

 

I would try to make a comparison for the v1 to v2, but the last v1 that I was around leaked boost from the housing, so that kinda throws out my comparison. However.....the fastest maxima, mardigrasmax's had a V1 s/c. So that opens up the discussion a little.

S

 

mardigras ran a Ttrim V1

 

Matt did not have a T trim... he talked about getting one, but decided to go to T alright... T as in Turbo

 

Well, if I remember correctly, I told you that the V2 produces about 1 psi more boost than the V1 for a given engine speed and blower pulley. That is due to the increased step up gearing that the V2 has compared to the V1, resulting in a higher impellor speed. More boost should equal more power, along with the fact that I believe the V2 has a slightly better efficiency, but I'd have to check on that to be sure.

 

Buying used is the only way to go. If you have a 4th gen I have a great SC kit up for sale.

Buying used you can get all parts, plus all gauges, A-pillar, complete fuel managment for tuning, for cheaper than a new kit costs.

I am considering selling mine if you know anyone who is interested.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=286840

 

Will a T trim give you better airflow? Can it hit higher psi?

One last thing will a T trim give you more hp at lower psi?

Sorry I have never heard of a T trim. YOU>>>> <<<<ME

 

As far as I know, I am the only one that's ever bought a used SC and it was defective.

The blower was leaking 2-3PSI at the compressor joint. I didn't catch it for like a year (thought I just had a major vacuum leak up until then) so I couldn't really complain to the guy.

Rebuilding a blower cost something like $325 for the usual rebuild

Trading up from a V1 to V2 Blower cost $850 - $950 if you get it polished.

IanS

 

Hey Ian wassup!!! My friend said that if u polish anything in the engine bay like a s/c it gets heated cuz its polished.huh more shiny...is that true? I was thinkin about polishing mine ...

 

It is true that shiny surfaces have lower emissivity than dull surfaces, therefore a polished blower will radiate heat at a lower rate than an unpolished blower. On the other hand, they will also absorb energy from a heat source (e.g. the engine) at a lower rate, too. But the dominant mode of heat transfer into the blower is probably conduction from the engine oil and from compressing the air, so radiation from the engine is probably negligible compared to the overall heat load. Similarly, heat transfer from the blower is most likely dominated by convection to air flow around it, which is not so dependent on surface properties.

In conclusion, I asked Craig Mack for an estimate, and he said the polished blower will reach a steady state temperature of 12.4657 degrees F higher than the unpolished blower.

 

damn!!! is there anything u don't know?what is the meaning of life? MAXIMAS?
thanx stephen

 

It's not that I know so much, it's just that I think I do.

I also have a real bad case of MAS (male answer syndrome) and I stopped taking my medication.

 

you probably work or own the site ask jeeves huh?