I have read every post on this subject, but what I am noticing is that 1999 and newer models have complete different EGR system. EGR valve is easy locate on older models, but not on 1999. Can someone please tell me where this thing is located on 1999 model? If you can attach a picture, it will be a life saver.

Recently, I got my Service Engine Light Soon and when I checked it out, it has problem with EGR Inflow/Outflow system. I think I need to clean this out, but I can't find that darn thing.

Today, my car had a hard time starting up. I also smelled some gas burning.....I think this whole thing is related .. Any advise?

Nissan dealer wanted to charge over 500 dollars to fix this. If I must take it to a shop, is it okay to take take it somewhere other than my dealer? I think they are bunch of thieves....

 

Anyone please?

 

Common guys......

 

I am almos 100% sure its in the same exact spot as 98 and earlier models, the only difference is yours is electrically controlled while 98 and earlier are vacuum controlled. Remove your air intake and duct work and its right below that, attached to the block. Its rreal tight workspace but is manageable I replaced my own. Usually it just needs to have the pipes cleaned If you don't have a Haynes manual for the Maxima go get one first it has pictures, and how to check your electrical connections to see if the solenoids or the valve itself are bad.

Just clean it and reset your ECU I bet ya the check angine light won't be back again.

 

This is from a 99 FSM:
0302
Diagnostic Trouble code 0302 points to a problem with the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. The malfunction is detected by the Engine Control Module when no EGR flow is detected under conditions which call for EGR. Possible causes include:
- The electrical harness or connectors (valve circuit open or shorted)
- The EGR valve is stuck closed
- Weak or dead battery
- The EGR passage is clogged
- Faulty EGR temperature sensor circuit
- A leak somewhere in the exhaust system

The EGR Volume Control Valve may be tested with an ohmmeter. Disconnect the electrical connector. Looking at the connector half which is attached to the EGRVCV with the latch at the 12 o'clock position you will see two rows of three terminals. The top row is numbered 1-3, right to left. The bottom row is numbered 4-6, right to left. Measure the resistance between these terminal pairs:
2 1
2 3
5 4
5 6
... all resistance values should be 20.9-23.1 ohms at 68 degrees F.

Reconnect the EGRVCV connector halves. Turn the ignition switch ON OFF repeatedly. Verify that the EGRVCV shaft moves smoothly forward backward according to the ignition switch position.

The Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor may be tested with an ohmmeter. The specifications are ...
- at 32 degrees F, 0.68-1.11 Megohms
- at 122 degrees F, 0.09-0.12 Megohms
- at 212 degrees F, 0.017-0.024 Megohms

 

before you start tearing the eng apart - make sure that your gas cap is sealing properly - the ECU runs self vaccum test of and extra air in the system might set off the MIL in the same manner like the rest of vehicles (domestics) that constantly throw the EGR high/low code - dealers are swamped with those these days

Nick.

drive it around and see if the code comes back

 

Thanks for replying, but I am certain that 99 models are different than any earlier models.
That mushroom head looking thing (EGR valve) is very visible on earlier models, but on mine, it is not where it suppose to be.

By the way, what and where is air intake and duct you've mentioned? Sorry, I am pretty new at this......

 

Yes, someone told me about my gas cap. It is sealed in properly and I have been driving with this service light for over a week now.
By the way, if I have a leaky gas cap, will it have any affect on starting up my car? Yesterday, it took me over 5 minutes to start the car.

 

If you dont know where the air intake is take your car to the dealer (ok I'll bear with yahere) sorry. Go get a Haynes manual. There is no mention of any difference between models and it is not "very visible" on any 4th gen, they are all under the air intake piping, on the block....and the block hasn't chnaged so like I said, your EGRs in the same spot as mine...

 

First thing is reset the light.....it prolly won't even come back. EGR is bullashet anyway.