Basically, I want to find out if it is possible to modify the strut to lower the ride height, while using stock type springs (H&R, Eibach, etc.). I am really only interested in modifying the front struts. The location of the spring perch determines the height at which the car will sit. Ground Control offers and adjustable spring perch and uses generic Eibach springs. This results in extremely limited suspension travel.

I want to shorten the strut body so that the point where the strut is attached to the control arm is modified 1"-2" to lower the car. Since its still using a stock type spring and shortened strut body, full suspension travel would remain. The wheel wells are big enough so that even at full compression nothing would hit, and control arm arc should remain the same.

I believe that Eibachs & H&R's offer the best real world handling because they offer the most suspension travel, but Tiens do look damn good. True coilovers are expensive and aren't reliable enough.

Is this possible? If it is, I am sure we can get 20+ people to create a group deal with a company that can do this modification. Just send in your stock struts and they come back shortened with koni inserts.

 

you want to lower the perch on the front strut? It will hit the tire.....that is just one first thing I can think of.

 

interesting theory.......

 

A company does do this already:
http://maxmods.dyndns.org/index.php?MaximaShockMounts

A few people on the org have had it done too. I have the plates for my rears, and was debating sending my fronts in to be done.

 

 

First those aren't stock type springs. When you shorten the strut wouldn't that automaticaly shorten suspension travel? The springs would be compressed more, worse ride quality and less suspension travel. Why not just get lowering springs?

 

your theory doesnt make sense, the only way to lower the car without changing the angle of the control arms is if you cut out the shock tower to allow the strut to pass through to be mounted higher in the engine bay. cutting and welding some custom fabed plates will be involved

 

Man i have no clue what your trying to do but it wont work, maybe its just me. But get some springs, my hole spring and shock cobo costed me about 350$

 

It's not worth it.

Get H&R or Eibachs, cut the bump stops correctly or use KYB dust boots. Get Motivational mounts in the rear and couple the springs with Tokico Illuminas.

The ride is excellent, handling is awsome and you still have plenty of suspension travel (about 2") for every day driving.

The shortened struts are used for extream drops associated with coil-over setups. The shortened struts used are stock KYB-AGX's from a Chevy Cavalier. The lower mounts are swapped over from a Maxima strut and the brake mount points are fabricated and welded on for our cars brake lines.

 

Ewwwwww......how much does the Cavalier weigh in at? Cant be as much as us can it?

 

I am using lowering springs already. I am on H&R with Tok Blues (f) KYB AGX(r) on my 5th gen right now, and have been for about 60k miles. I am switching to Eibachs soon, the H&R's are too soft. The AGX's are awesome, they haven't lost any of their dampening ability. The Toks up front have softened a bit. I will not use any other spring such as Tien S.tech, etc. Suspension travel is paramount in a good handling car for the real world.

With the Eibachs I'm going to switch to Illumina's up front and reuse the AGX in the rear, until they die.

I am willing to give up ride quality, but only for handling, not looks.

I find that coilovers are unreliable because they are prone to squeak, they need custom made repacement parts for anything that may wear (I drive 40k mi. a year), and are not winter friendly.

I did not want to lower the spring perch, but to shorten the entire body of the strut so that the distance between the spring perch and the control arm mounting points was shorter. I did not realize that the spring perch would then interfire with the tire so my idea went right out the window.

I was wrong in thinking that the control arm arc would not change. The good thing about the beam axle is that you can lower it without drastically changing the geometry. In the front the lower you go the control arm goes further up its arc of travel. I have heard that for ideal handling the control arm should be parallel to the ground when the car is static. Going beyond parallel would actually raise the center of gravity because of the change in geometry, even though the car gets lower.

IMO, only go with H&R or Eibach springs. I wanted to get rid of the front wheel gap, but i can't so forget that.

Maybe some custom fenders