how the hell did u take rotor off?

ok i did my fronts & now i'm having trouble with rear....caliper is off & so is the hub in front of rotor...now rotor doesnt want to slide out like front rotors did. Am i suppose to unscrew that bolt in the middle of rotor to take rotor off(see pic) ?




p.s. my friend did my brakes last time but he's out of the country right now

 

wat up k pazzo

anyway no i dont think you have to take that center bolt off...it might jsut be stuck....trying tapping it with a hammer around it to get it loose
-J

 

whats up 2k2......

thats what i thought......i been banging the $hit out of this rotor....see all the fingerprints...i've also try pulling that sucker off & nothing.....greased it up with w-40 & re-did process & nothing

Any Tips on how to take this rust rotor out???????

 

how bad were your rears...the rotors looked like they are still nice and smooth

my rear rotors are horrible i need to replace them immediately....with some powerslots like my fronts

if you get it bro ..let me know i havent done my rears yet but front i have done

 

bad!!!!.....my dealer said my rear rotors & pads were shot like 6k+ miles ago....just got around to it now

 

soak the back/hub side in liquid wrench. Grab a rubber mallet and smack the **** out of it. Put on some lug nuts loosely, in case it comes flying off.

 

And also before u put on your NEW rotors, buy some anti-seize compound and apply it to the center of the rotors, where it contacts the hub. (and the other side if u wish, to stop the corrosion).
This will stop it from rusting as much, so it wont be a PIA to remove next time.

 

damn!!!! i should definitely get to changing mine ASAP because my rotors look alot alot worse then yours
-J

 

where can i get this 'liquid wrench'? autozone?

thanks

 

yo k pazzo
what kind of rotors? pads? did you get
where and how much?
-J

 

My preferred method is to use rubber mallet and hit, trun, hit, turn etc. when I did mine I just hit it on the face part of the rotor and eventually they came off

Worst comes to worst you can try heating it up with propane torch ( just don't overheat the inside of the hub)

Edit: Me fail english ? That's unpossible.

 

i got brembo slotted from GD section like month or 2 ago
i got front/rear Raybesto QS pads

 

i'll try this tomorrow....

 

Thats what did it for me. I took them off tonight and had and I used a 2# sledge...tap tap tap (more like pound pound pound I was not nice but I used a thick rag in between the hammer and face of the rotor). I did it for "each" lug. I pounded and rotated and pounded again. I did not use Liquid Wrench. If still frustrated..."GENTLY" tap the face of the rotor hat in between each stud. You should see chuncks of rust come out just before the rotor finally gives in and release from the hub.

Clean the area with WD-40 and then use anti-seaze grease on the face of the hub and the backside of the rotor hat and should not be a problem in the future.

Good Luck!

Colonel

 

i read somewhere if you hit that thing right in the middle with a screw driver and a hammer, the rotor pops out. I dont remember exactly or know if it works.

 

What you need to do is one of two things. If you want to retain the rotor for future use, then you need to bang the hub part fairly hard in a circle. Like next to each stud. Believe me it will come off, its basically rusted to the hub center.

If you dont care for the rotor, hit it on the rotor surface in a circle and it will fall loose.

Dixit

 

for any car, for any rotor, w/o theaded holes in hub to creep rotor off. take a sledge hammer or pinch bar, a good wack or two near hub (on not on face) will free the rotor, works every time.

 

also my $.02, never trust the stealer, pads probably need to be replaced but your rotor looks fine, cant tell if they are warped from pics though, find a auto parts store near you that has a machine shop or can have them sent out, it costs $5 a rotor to have them cut, as long as they w/ in the legal thickness which they should be. it usualy takes about 2hrs and costs a hell of lot less than replacing the rotors.

 

turned rotors dont last. This is because when the rotors are cold, yes they may fine, but upon slight braking they WILL HEAT UP. Due to this, the metal is already used to unevenly heating up, and as you brake more and more, the warpage effect will become as pronounced as before.

 

makes sense, but i have never had that problem

 

K Pazzo,
There's no way around it..you have to bang the **** out of it with a hammer. Just try to do it without ruining the hub and there's no need to take the hub nut off. I used a capenters hammer and banged it like crazy cuz I knew I wasn't going to keep the rotors. Eventually it came off(all 4). Do what someone said ealier...bang, turn rotor, bang, turn rotor, etc. and it'll come off. It may take a while but it will come off. Also put some anti-seize past on the hub ring before putting on the new rotors to prevent future rusting. Good luck.

Stillen c/d rotors fron/rear(Brembo)
Hawk HPS front pads
Stock rear pads
Goodridge S/S lines
Prestone Brake Fluid

 

thanks everyone for answers....i'm gonna try doing it this way once i get off work at 6p