I attempted installing the UDP from ASP today...put it on, and it wouldn't go on more than a centimeter....

Not sure...the tolerances aren't large enough, even the stock pulley on the VE has probably .001-.002 inches of play on it.

This was the end of an agravating time with ASP, first they got my name wrong on the order, then sent it to my house and not my school address, and when it did arrive at my house it was in RED not SILVER...BUNCH OF CRAP!!!

Anyone else had problems with ASP?

MR Gone mentioned that there should have probably been some metal sleeve/collar over the aluminum portion that goes into the block... any more info on that?

Thanks,
Brian

 

might have to sand that sucker down a bit to force it on, get some 200-400 grits and take care of it.

 

I shouldnt have to sand it down...the tolerances should be like factory... If i was making something from another car to fit I might, but the UDP was designed for our car, it should fit.

Brian

 

get your money back and take your business elsewhere. call customer service phone tree screwing.

 

I bought my UDP from ASP and i didn't have the bad luck you had. then again I bought the pulley 3 years ago; maybe things have changed since then.

 

Unfortunately there aren't many companies that make UDPs for the VE engine. Does UR still make one? I remember posts awhile back that said the ASP pulley was a tight fit.

 

I bought an ASP udp for my dodge truck .... no problems at all.

 

1989maxman, maybe you just got a factory blem. call them up and ask for a replacement part. companies respond well to 'store credit' over 'money back.' try that.

 

i never installed a udp but for some reason i thought u had to heat eather the crank or the pully and cool the other for them to fit

 

I used a piece of wood and lightly pounded it on.

 

The pulley is SUPPOSED to be a tight fit.
lube up the crank with some grease or heavy oil, as well as the inside of the pulley.
then just go to town with your impact wrench..

make sure you replace the crank seal as well. If not, it'll leak shortly.

there's not supposed to be a metal ring around the sleeve either. after a few years of mine being on the car, it started leaking oil a bit... so I called ASP and sent it to them and they put a sleeve on it for me. it's by no means standard on them.

 

I put grease on it, went to town tapping it on with a hammer and it wouldnt go on more than a centimeter, the crank bolt wasn't in far enough to even use the impact wrench, so...

Another problem was that the local parts shops dont have the replacement oil seal in the books/computer listings...I personally looked through them too...an nissan didnt have any in stock...

I think ill just return everything, unless someone wants to buy it and give it a try.

I got all of the belts goodyear gatorbacks, if anyone is thinking about doing a VE UDP i can sell them to you otherwise ill return them all...PITA

Brian

 

well i got mine from rpmoutlet.com and it fit like a charm, it took a little convincing but nothing like your problem.

 

did you have the pully properly angled on there before you started whacking it with a hammer? if you get it crooken, then it won't go on at all.

I've had problems getting them on before, but they WILL go on, and they WILL come off. The tolerances are extremely close on them, and they don't differ more than a few 0.0001" from pulley to pulley. yours must be on the smaller side, but they will fit. if not, then take a file or sandpaper and help it out a bit.

as for the seal, I ONLY recommend OEM parts on engine seals. every one I've tried from a parts store for my VE has always been the wrong seal. so what if you have to wait a few days for it from Nissan... Plan for this type of thing and you won't screw yourself in the long run.


do it once, do it right... or you get to spent twice as much time doing it AGAIN.

 

hmm...mine did not go on either even with some light whacking amd grease. So I took my drill, put on a sanding head and sanded a little off the inside.

Without doing this I don't think it would be possible to put it on, unless I really take a sledge hammer too it.

I thought everyone had this problem. Did not know that some people's UDP went on so smoothly.

 

did you put it on backwards? sometimes pullies are direction-specific as the shafts are conical. i did this once on my brother's old ford escort. the crank pulley would not go back on. beat on it. and beat on it. and it got stuck nowhere near it's final place. i found out later, after much humiliation and frustration, i put it back on backwards.

this is why i'm not a mechanic to this day.

 

Um, yeah the fit is tight. I just EASED it on enough for me to put the bolt in. From there, I gently used in impact wrench and put it on. I thought it would never come back off. But with the use of a puller and the 2 threaded holes, it pulled right off again. I'm gonna send mine back for the sleev. I just had it on for a very short time and it already has a small groove. Negotiating the rpm outlet right now.

 

OK, some of you guys are scaring me here... You NEVER, NEVER NEVER NEEEEVER beat, sand, pound, file, or otherwise harsh manuevers on a crank pulley/damper. You go to the auto parts store, get some assembly lube and a damper installer. Place the damper on gently, move it around nice and easy untill you are sure it is as perfectly lined up as it can be. You then install the damper installation tool through the pulley into the threads of the crank, install your heavy washer onto the installer and damper from the installer kit, install the bearing from the install kit, install the nut onto the installer, and start tighting it down. The bearing will allow it to go nice and easy as long as you have lubed the threads on the nut. Keep turning untill it just wont turn anymore. remove the installer assembly, and put your crank bolt on. Use impact gun if you cant hold the flywheel, otherwise torque it down to spec.

grinding out the damper will make it a loose fit and it will eventualy (unless your lucky) cause stress fractures in your crank and cause you to shatter or otherwise brake your crank. It should be a damn near interference fit, they are NOT supposed to go on easy by any means.

Pounding on your damper will destroy your crank's thrust bearings and will more than likely not go on straight causing senario I just mentioned above.

Go out and purchase a puller and installer and do the job right guys, don't risk destroying your motor cause you didnt use the proper tools.

 

Many others here have had the same experience with the ASP UDP. For some reason the the inside edge of the pulley and the rest of the inside of the pulley are different diameter. I did the same thing as Craig B did and sanded the inside of the pully until it was all even. That was the only way I could see that it would fit.

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/drivetrain/udp/udp.shtml

 

I spoke to the guys over at ASP today, I am sending the pulley back to the engineer there to check the specs, maybe their tolerances in the milling process were off, if so they should send a replacement or fix this one...if that one has the same problem...then ill just get my money back.

Brian

 

I'd like to know the final answer to this, I was poised to buy an ASP pulley for my VE, but have been holding off after seeing this thread- I'm curious about the fit, and the "sleeve" that should or should not be on there... I don't mind sanding a bit off, but don't want it to screw up anything. My front seal has been leaking for a while, and I don't want to replace it again anytime soon after installing the UDP.

 

i like all the others have had the same problem and had to sand it down alittle now it goes on and comes off just like the stocker no big deal although i do need that metal sleeve since its leaking just a tad from there and the seal is littereally only 5 months old

 

what about the color issue?

 

I dont know...if they send me a replacement and not the one I send back..hopefully they send the aluminum grey one and not the ghetto red that they sent...

Yeah the RPM Outlet sent the wrong color, to the wrong address, and even spelled my name wrong. Then took a week to respond to my email regarding the misdeliery...PITA bad service...

Brian

 

Have any of you guys that have a leak thought maybe the leak is caused by the issues I said you might come up with if you sand/file/grind the inner race? When you do this, the damper tends to have an area that is a little larger on one side (we are all human, your not gonna get it perfect) when this happens, the damper actualy wobbles. This wobble isnt much, and might not even be visible, but chances are, your damper is moving into the seal area and damaging it.

I have not yet pulled this motors damper, but are you guys actualy pulling it off by hand or with a puller? Dampers are supposed to be tight enough that they wont go on or come off without tools (regardless of weather the bolt is in or not)

 

well when Jeff and I did his engine swap, his stocker came off by hand, but his UDP needed a puller.

IIRC, when i tore down my spare motor, I didnt use a puller either.

 

Both my VG SE and my VE SE motors stock pulleys came off without a puller, and go on without tools...

Never encountered the need for a puller until I removed the ASP one that was stuck...about a centimeter onto the crank shaft.

Brian

 

Damon, I've got pics of my pulley around here somewhere.. I'll try to find and post them.. after 2 years on the car, it actually wore a groove in the aluminum from the seal and started leaking.
I never touched the inside race on mine, so I know it's not from it wobbling. mine has to go on with an impact wrench. the stock pulley slid off very easily- there was even a thin layer of oil on the end of the crank - up to the end of the bolt in the front of the crank snout. so the thick washer on the bolt itself was holdint that oil back.

but after I had the steel sleeve put on my ASP, it hasn't leaked a drop since. 205k miles and the underside of my car is bone dry.

 

Wow, this pulley is ALL aluminum? The snout should be hardened steel, thats kinda a rule of thumb in designing a damper. Aluminum will deform over time on a crank snout, its OK to use them on other accessories, but usualy you put a steel snout on the damper because of all the torsional vibration associated with it. I would be curious to know if they have started utilizing a steel snout, if not, I dont think I would trust one.

 

How else do you get a pulley to weigh 1.8 lbs?

Brian

 

That's the case on ultra-high HP V8s... things change a lot when you get to Japanese V6s that are a lot better balanced from the factory. people have been using solid aluminum pulleys for years without problems.

 

exactly...the factory part is not even a balancer its just a pulley. If vibration was a problem then they would have a balancer on it instead of just a pulley from the factory.

 

might not be quite 1.8lbs, but a steel shell is kind neecesary for anything that rides on a seal. Anyone ever seen an aluminum shaft that has a seal rubing on it? Probably not....

 

Just cause it is a V-8, doesnt mean it shakes more than a JP V-6. Balancing and torsional Vibration dont neccesarily have anything to do with one another. Every time the engine fires, the crank speeds up and then slows down, that is a vibration. And right now, I have to say that these VE motors are not exactly the smoothest V6's I have seen at idle by a long shot.

 

I'll give you that, but the crank is also 30% shorter than the ones on a V8.. they have less need for damping, as they're not as long. a V6 is also better balanced inherently, as the pistons fire 120 degrees apart instead of 90. there's less stress and torsional vibration inherent in the system because of it. straight 6 engines are even better for it. (which is why they're used in M3, Supra, Skyline, etc).

as for smoothness? with new plugs, my engine runs just as smooth as an '03 Max. can't even tell it's running if you roll the windows up so you can't hear the VTCs clattering.

And yes, I've seen an aluminum shaft rubbing on a seal. I've had my ASP UDP on for over two years before it started dripping oil, so I sent it back and they had no problem machining a steel sleeve onto it. they said I was the FIRST person to ever mention it-- so why should they fix it if it's an isolated problem? I asked them if they had plans to put steel sleeves on all of them, and they said they would if they saw a need to do it.

 

Funny thing about working in the aftermarket (since I run a high performance aftermarket company), you find that most people buying this stuff never realize there is a problem, and when they do, they dont know who to call. I am sure there aren't all that many people buying the VE pulley that have taken it off and inspected the race of it. And no, the aluminum "shouldnt" do this normaly, but any garbage in the oil, or grime that acumulated around a leaking seal would cut an aluminum race, that is why they dont use aluminum. On a perfectly clean, healthy internal motor with dust shields around the engine bay, you shouldnt see any problems. The thing is, there are people that DO in fact get grime up there, and for that reason, we tend to only use a steel race where there is an oil seal.

As for 30% shorter? ummmmwhere are you getting that number? the difference between a Magnum V6 and a Magnum V8 is 4 inches, hardly a 30% difference. Gotta remember, the bulk of the lenght is not from the cyls, its in the area outside the cranking area.