Wsup folks,...long time no see

So heres the deal....
About 10days ago I swapped my pads all around and put new powerslots on the rear to go with the front PS's. Now Ive had the front PS's w/HAWKS on since June last year and never had a problem with them. So now I went and changed all my pads to KDR Carbon Fiber/Kevlar pads and put new PS's on the rear. What happens now is this,when Im above 55MPH and have to brake hard,My steering wheel starts to vibrate/shake/judder W/E you wanna call it. Now I NEVER had this happen until I changed the pads and rear rotors. Im pretty sure the front PS's are still straight as I never had this happen til the pads were changed.

So what do u guys think?? Pads still bedding? Warped rotors? Wheel Alignment?

 

I didn't vote the poll...

I have a suggestion though since this happened to good rotors right after a brake job. I would check to make sure the front rotors are square with the hubs. Did you clean the hub and rotor hat during the brake job? If the rotors aren't sitting sqaure on the hub you'd have excessive run-out and that would cause judder, maybe even a pulsing pedal. Eventually that will also warp the rotors(s).

Always good to use a dial gauge when you do brakes. You're going to need one now to figure out what's wrong.

 

Probably either...

1. Pads weren't broken in properly

2. DEFINITELY warped rotors, no matter what.

I'd have the powerslots turned if you can, and then do a careful break-in procedure for the newly cut rotor, keeping braking to a minimum for the first 100 miles or so.

 

yeah, actually thinking back to my post, you should check all of this first before declaring the rotors "warped"...

 

rotors need to be turned

 

FAHK!!!! More money gone,....SOB Ok thanx guys. Ill have the rotors turned and do all that stuff while Im having my SS brake lines installed.

 

i voted rotors but:

brake problems can occur from installation, overtorque of the wheel/hub, pads and/or rotors, calipers, and even air in the brake lines.

 

Anybody know how many FT LBS. the lugs should be tightened too? I may have overdone it,I used an impact wrench(air gun) when I put my wheels back on.

 

your studs are probably 1.25X12mm right hand thread and should be about 75-80 ft./lbs. make sure you can turn your lugnuts at LEAST 6 complete turns before they bottom out on the wheel to hub; also use a criss cross tighten sequence, not circular. Hope this helps

 

Spirilis,

I think you've made it your life mission to get to the bottom of this rotor problem. I appreciate your insight on all of these posts.

 

noooooooo..... you're supposed to hand torque your lugs dude..

80-90 ft lbs in a criss cross pattern..

this is a common cause of warped rotors..

 

You're damn right it's my life mission

 

I wouldn't shoot them yet! Check run-out first. One of the rotors might not be sitting on the hub sqaure.

 

Probably warped rotors. Turn them.

 

UPDATE- Its definately the rotors. I figured Ide give a few more days and see if it would remedy itself. Well for the most part it did. Its not as bad now btwn 55-80mph. But once I get over 80 MPH and have to use the brakes it gets scary. I had to hit the brakes @ 110MPH Tuesday night on the NJ TPKE and my damn steering wheel shook right out of my hands. That was my wake-up call. The car goes into the dealer on monday,Im getting the rotors turned, pads resurfaced(straightened),SS lines installed,& a brake system flush. Thanx for all the help guys,much appreciated.

 

i am sooooo sick of our brake probs..