Help with SES Code P1320
Help with SES Code P1320
I have been reading the board and appreciate your willingness to share information with a novice. I have a 2000 SE with 104K miles. My car has been great. No troubles, just oil changes, brakes and tires. Dealer replaced emissions item under warranty at about 70K.
SES light came on last week so I went to Auto Zone (thanks for that tip). I have seen on this and another site that P1320 generally means coils gone bad. I called dealer to inquire about cost to replace all 6 and change plugs while they were at it. Can you believe they said 700 for the coils and another 175 to replace the plugs. They say they need to do diagnostic, might not be coils, codes are not specific, codes just tell you where to start to look. I hate Dealer Service and I think they, like others in the repair world, take advantage of you when you don't know any better.
I was going to purchase coils and plugs and change them with a friend. What other things might this P1320 code be pointing to? Any advice would be appreciated.
SES light came on last week so I went to Auto Zone (thanks for that tip). I have seen on this and another site that P1320 generally means coils gone bad. I called dealer to inquire about cost to replace all 6 and change plugs while they were at it. Can you believe they said 700 for the coils and another 175 to replace the plugs. They say they need to do diagnostic, might not be coils, codes are not specific, codes just tell you where to start to look. I hate Dealer Service and I think they, like others in the repair world, take advantage of you when you don't know any better.
I was going to purchase coils and plugs and change them with a friend. What other things might this P1320 code be pointing to? Any advice would be appreciated.
Originally Posted by choosinu
I have been reading the board and appreciate your willingness to share information with a novice. I have a 2000 SE with 104K miles. My car has been great. No troubles, just oil changes, brakes and tires. Dealer replaced emissions item under warranty at about 70K.
SES light came on last week so I went to Auto Zone (thanks for that tip). I have seen on this and another site that P1320 generally means coils gone bad. I called dealer to inquire about cost to replace all 6 and change plugs while they were at it. Can you believe they said 700 for the coils and another 175 to replace the plugs. They say they need to do diagnostic, might not be coils, codes are not specific, codes just tell you where to start to look. I hate Dealer Service and I think they, like others in the repair world, take advantage of you when you don't know any better.
I was going to purchase coils and plugs and change them with a friend. What other things might this P1320 code be pointing to? Any advice would be appreciated.
SES light came on last week so I went to Auto Zone (thanks for that tip). I have seen on this and another site that P1320 generally means coils gone bad. I called dealer to inquire about cost to replace all 6 and change plugs while they were at it. Can you believe they said 700 for the coils and another 175 to replace the plugs. They say they need to do diagnostic, might not be coils, codes are not specific, codes just tell you where to start to look. I hate Dealer Service and I think they, like others in the repair world, take advantage of you when you don't know any better.
I was going to purchase coils and plugs and change them with a friend. What other things might this P1320 code be pointing to? Any advice would be appreciated.
If you act fast, you can purchase six coils and six OEM NGK platinium plug
from Jerry Rome Nissan (www.jerryromenissan.com), use the 'sale30'
promo code, and get everything for less than $310 + shipping (list is
$445). You need to purchase them by the end of the month though.
Pretty sure it's a coil(s), however it could also be:
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
Originally Posted by DanL
It's usually a bad coil, but can also be the crankshaft position sensor.
If you act fast, you can purchase six coils and six OEM NGK platinium plug
from Jerry Rome Nissan (www.jerryromenissan.com), use the 'sale30'
promo code, and get everything for less than $310 + shipping (list is
$445). You need to purchase them by the end of the month though.
If you act fast, you can purchase six coils and six OEM NGK platinium plug
from Jerry Rome Nissan (www.jerryromenissan.com), use the 'sale30'
promo code, and get everything for less than $310 + shipping (list is
$445). You need to purchase them by the end of the month though.
Thank you!
I placed my order online and am anxiously awaiting the arrival. I can mess this up and start again and still spend less than my local dealer wanted. However, I'm going to do this right the first time.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Pretty sure it's a coil(s), however it could also be:
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Pretty sure it's a coil(s), however it could also be:
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
1)Harness/connector open or short
2)Condensor
However, I'd suspect the coils first and try buying a front AND rear bank coil, new or used, and try swapping one at a time after clearing the code to see if it comes back. Problem with that method is it could be more then one front or rear coil is bad or it's intermittent.
To clear the code, unplug the battery overnight.
To check the condensor, turn the ignition switch OFF, unplug the condensor, turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage. Then check resistance is >1M ohm between two terminals.
Pretty sure you can buy ALL six coils for far less then $700 from DAVEB (888)254-6060.
Where did you get this number from?
Originally Posted by twllin
what plugs? thats the set of 6 coils they plug in to the stock wiring nothing else is needed
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Kyle Lee Cleveland
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