OK orgy members!

I've got my some pics (despite poor quality) cuz everyone said they wanted some.

As well to answer some questions that people were asking.

Plus a mini-write up of what I did.

Q/A:

1) Reason I chose to hook-up Amps/Subs to the stock HU is because my love affair with my Maxima is ending soon, gonna trade her in in August, so I don't wanna spend money on a HU (yet, till I get my next car) or bother taking the dash apart.

2) EVERYTHING in my car right now is 'experimental', a learning process for me, the subs are temporary, going to be selling BOTH of them, the Amp (crappy) I'm using right now isn't mine. I have a "Rockford Fosgate Punch P6001" coming the end of this week.

3) This is my first attempt at car audio so I wanted to try / learn different things.

4) Sound quality is acceptable, I get 200% more bass than the stock setup, but the rear deck / truck vibrates like a ****.

5) Overall setup took about 2 hours in TOTAL!

6) L.O.C. Cost $15, Stinger 8 Gage Wiring Kit Cost $40 (Best Buy employee price), Stinger Power Cable Splitter ($6 BB employee price)

Now for Pics:



MTX Thunder 9000 Series 12" (Discontinued), Pioneer TS-W305C 12", Jensen 500Watt 2/1 Channel AMP, Alpine V12 Series 300Watt 2/1 AMP (Discontinued)


Half My Trunk is Used up!


InstallEdge (Rockford) Adjustable LOC (Line Output Converter)


Wiring Writeup is Next

 

I used:
Stinger 8 Gage Complete Wiring Kit (Pick your own weapon of choice)

Hardest part is running the power wire, after a few suggestions from various members, I decided to run the wire via the Trunk Release Wire grommet. Just follow the wire, you can't miss it.

Removing the Driver side fender liner will help 300%! Its held on by about 4 bolts / rivets.

Hiding the wire is pretty simple, just pull on the plastic pieces that connect the door / carpet (hard to explain but I'm sure you get the idea) they just snap off easily. Hide the wire in there.


Wiring LOC:

7X 18-22 Gage QuickTaps will make your life 100% easier.

I bought the LOC (Line Output Converter) *pic is above* at BestBuy for $15.

Remove harness /plug from Bose Amp located on the rear deck in your trunk (can't miss it, only one plug going into stock Bose Amp) remove a large amout of Electrical tape to access the wires.

Wires to Tap: (I tapped the Input wires to the Rear speakers)

Left Speaker Wires -
Left Positive (+) is BROWN / Left Negative (-) is BLACK & RED

Right Speaker Wires -
Right Positive (+) is LIME GREEN / Right Negative (-) is BLACK & WHITE

Tap those wires with your Quick Taps to the appropriate wires on your LOC.


AMP On/Off Signal (a terminal on your Amp):

I tapped the GREEN & WHITE wire on the Bose Harness / Plug.

 

This is the way I was going to do it but I heard there was a boominess to the sound you couldnt remove because you were using signal from the BOSE amps. But If you say it sounds good then Im going to give it a whirl.

 

No because the wires I tapped are straight from the HU ... its NOT a amplified signal from the Amp! It worked for me ... sound is pretty clean!

 

Orgy!!! Where?! Count me in.

 

ahh see now using the signal from the HU is a much better idea. What do you have the dials set to on the LOC? I was thinking that since the HU sends out preamp signal already then you could just skip the LOC and use regular RCA cables spliced into the HU preamp wires.