They're starting to pulse, so I want to get new ones. How much will it cost to get someone to do it? And, is this a DIY job? Thanks

 

Price depends on what you want. If you want to stick to stock then about $80 for the pair. If you want to go slotted/drilled your looking at like $130 to $175 for decent brand name. Rotors are a DIY. While you are there you might as well regrease the torque member too. Here is a link......


http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

Just make sure to do one side at a time so you have a control to reference if you get lost.

 

^ Word, thanks I just read that. Frank is great!

The GD is $40 ea for the Bremboes. But I'd have to buy pads too, which are $40 ea with the same GD. So... I guess I'm looking at a minimum of $160 total?

DIY, well... I sort of don't trust my self to do this. I'll probably end up DIMself anyway, but what do you think it would it cost a shop to do this?

 

OR..you could just go to Autozone and pick up a pair of AIMCO blanks for $30 each.

Work just as well as oem, but not as pretty as the slotted/drilled ones.

 

i just got autozone blanks for $19.95 each... working great

 

^^ The Bremboes in the GD are blanks (the ones for $40).

I was thinkin about gettin some Autozone rotors... but I'm a bit skeptical on them warping too. BTW, what pads do you guys use?

 

I have Nissan Key Value pads on the front, and I think they're eating my rotors. I had the original rotors until yesterday when I tried the AutoZone Aimcos ($29/ea), and I think the POS KV pads are eating them too. I will try the AutoZone pads in front, too, I guess. Moral of story: if you buy OEM pads, don't buy key value line.

Dave

 

Guys,

I spoke with several parts' guys before deciding on going with OEM rotors and pads (not key-value) for the brake-job I just did on my 96 GLE. I have heard many complaints on the maxima usenet group about the cheaper rotors not being "true" out of the box. Since it seems that brake-pedal vibration, rotor warping/variation thickness seems to be a widespread maxima problem I just decided to spend the extra money on OEM parts... time will tell if it was worth it.. I got the rotors for around 60 bucks/each and the pads were 50 bucks ... all from courtesyparts.com (as far I remember). While I did the brakes, I also replaced all the hardware (shims, retaining clips)... being at 106k I figured that stuff is probably due for a change and it was about 20 bucks for the hardware kit... I know it wasn't the cheapest brake job I could have done, but I don't like to have to keep "reworking" things...

In Dave's case, I don't know if it is the key-value pads - I would recommend staying away from them - several Nissan techs. themselves have said the key-value parts are junk... several people have said positive things about the raybestos QS pads - there is a thread going right now about those pads... I have always used OEM pads... figured the extra 30 bucks every 40-50k is well worth it - since I haven't ever had any squealing and braking performance remains consistent between brake-jobs and over time.

Cheers,
Nirav

 

Did you get the hardware kit from the dealer?

 

Yes... I ordered it from courtesyparts.com at the same time as the pads, and rotors. Your local dealer should have it for around 20-25 bucks.

 

If you have the money then DEFINETELY go with the cross drilled. They are 100 times superior to oem. I bought the Stillen cross drilledsetup for like $450 w/shipping (4 x-drilled rotors, 4 SS lines, Motul DOT4 fluid, Metal Matrix Pads). This was probably the best mod Ive done to my car (as far as drivability concerns). Also, I did the job with a friend in about 2 hours without an impact gun. Like I said, if you have the means then go for the cross drilled, if not, dont always go with th cheapest...save up just a little more and get the goods. Thats what I did, and let me tell you, it was very well worth it.

 

You should be able to get two blanks for the front(OEM style) for about $40-$50 a pair. I did.They have still been going strong for over a year with no problems. Don't spend more than that on rotors, because they will either crack( if they are cross drilled) or they will warp if they are blanks eventually and you will have to get more.

This is definitely a DIY job. It is very easy.
There ought to be a "How-To" to show you what is going on.

 

Yes - you can definitely get "OEM like" for 40-50 bucks a pair - at Autozone, Pep Boys or your favorite equivalent... the price I quoted of 60 bucks/per rotor is the Nissan OEM original part... I recommend using the Nissan original rotors, but others seem to have had good success using aftermarket equivalents.

There is indeed an excellent how-to availlable at:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300

Nirav

 

I like AIMCO rotors too. Have them front and back now.

If you pads are "eating your" rotors, I would seriously look into remanufactured calipers from Autozone as well ($40 each after core)--sounds to me like one of your calipers are sticking. I wouldn't blame the pads.

IMHO, cross-drilled/sloted is really just for show unless you auto-X.

 

Word, I'm ordering the AIMCO rotors, and just some regular OEM style pads (Durabrand-Gold or something to that effect)

thanks for all the input guys

 

Get some EBC Greenstuff pads if you want really good stopping power with a performance pad. The only thing is that they dust a lot. They did last a long time though.

If you want some more affordable ones that perform well, get the Raybestos QuietStop pads. They are very low dusting, and are pretty cheap too.

 

thought about getting those Raybestos pads, but they're just as expensive as the Bremos in the GD, so I decided to go w/ El Cheapo Autozone pads. Hopefully they don't sqeal

 

Yeah i got the pep boys rotors, for like 24.99 without tax or something....i have had em for about a month and no problems yet.. they looked fine and perform fine... doesnt make much sense to me in buying a chunk of steal here...or a chunk of steel here...and pay more for one or the other? there isnt much technology or tecnique into machining a dam rotor lol....pads on the other hand i would spend the extra money on and get good ones..

Just like MishMosh said, unless you auto cross or drive like a maniac and ride your brakes more than the gas, dont get cross drilled... its pointless and will cost you more money in the long run...

Conclusion:
get cheap rotors...and get good pads...

 

cool... yeah, I was kinda skeptical on the el cheapo pads. I haven't bought'em yet, just ordered them to the store. I'm gonna get in on the Axis pads GD, and stick w/ the Autozone rotors.

thanks again for everyone's input

 

oh and BTW i am using Raybestos QS in the front with those rotors..

i gota replace the ones in the rear now..what do you guys recomend for the rear pads? raybestos as well? or do you mismatch with cheaper ones...ones that dont squeel?

 

Technology - probably not, but I can bet that there is a world of difference in the metal quality between the 14.99 rotors and the 50 dollar brembos or 60 dollar Nissan rotors. The question is it whether the quality difference will be perceptible in terms of wear, brake feel and longevity and is that difference, if any, worth 30 bucks/rotor. For me it is worth spending an extra 60 bucks to use better parts. Besides, assuming 40k replacement intervals - at 20k miles/year (which is more than most drive), thats 60 bucks every two years..

But like everything else - to each their own . Just do the brake job carefully and thoroughly, no matter what parts you end up using.

Nirav

 

You have one of those "If-it-is-more-expensive-it-must-be-better-quality" kind of people. Aren't you?

Well, that is not always the case. If it were why would cars(like the maxima) outlast some of the Infiniti cars or some Toyotas outlast the Lexus'? Explain that!

Just because they are cheaper, does not mean that they are necessarily made with poorer quality. I am saying this in reference to the rotors. Numerous people on the .org have stated that Brembo are not all that they are cracked up to be. I mean, it sounds cool to say "Brembo Cross-drilled", but they crack really easily and are not the quality that everyone else says they are.

Granted, I think some of the "Nissan" parts are higher quality than just generic, but how do you think NAPA can stay in business if they sell crap for parts? They would not be able to do so. There is no sense paying $60 per rotor when a $20 one is probably made the same place and has the same metal and temper of metal used.

 

Raybestos QS pads are not expensive ($42 for pair at rockauto). Lack of squeel and avoiding potential collision not worth save a few bucks.

 

yup.......$42 is not a lot for a good set of pads.
I have also used www.rockauto.com
They are good and ship out fast if you want to use them.

 

Exactly - and my point is that Nissan original (not key-value) pads can be had for $52.79 bucks from a wholesale dealer... (e.g. newnissanparts.com) so in some instances it makes sense to go with original parts or something other than the cheapest.

 

No. I don't really think more-expensive-is-better-quality always... I do think there are instances where that is true however... and from what I have read, rotors are one item you don't want to skimp on and for a matter of 60 bucks every couple of years, why not use original equip?

Do I use original nissan wiper blades or inserts? no... I'm not paying 20 bucks for something I can get for 5 bucks... the nissan's might be of better quality, but its something thats not important enough for me to shell out the price difference...

Do I use original nissan oil filters? Yes.. why? I can get the cheaper variety from Autozone, but I have found the nissan filters led to less start-up rattle (better anti-drainback valve).. so thats what I use... do people on this forum use FRAM all the time and will their cars potentially outlast mine - sure... but I like the comfort of knowing there is enough oil pressure in the engine when its 20 below when I start the car...

Like I said - I'm not ripping on people for using cheaper parts - I just recommended using what I considered better quality parts for the brakes (which indeed, as you say, may not be any better than the less priced variety)....

Cheers,
Nirav

 

I thought you were talking about rotors.
Pads are a whole different story.
It definitely does not make sense to buy OEM Nissan pads over some higher performance pads like Raybestos Quietstops. The Nissan ones are just not the same grade. But if you want to pay more for something that you are actually getting less from, go for it.

As for the wiper blade comparison, that is the same I feel. But I am not going to pay $60 per rotor when I can pay $20 for one that will last the same. They are not actually manufactured by Nissan anyway. Nissan probably gets the same rotors I put on mine and re-boxes them in something that says "Nissan."

 

This is an interesting discussion. Of course I am aware that Nissan does not manufacture its own rotors and probably the same is true of the pads...

Why do you think that the Raybestos QS pads are better than the Nissan pads? I'm just curious to know ... I'm not challenging your statement... just trying to learn - so next time I know better than to assume that the "Nissan" stamp means "must be good".

Nirav

 

You can get Brembo blanks from the Tirerack for $42. I avoid GD at all cost because it's nearlu impossible to return an item. Paying the extra 10% to by from a real company that has a good return policy is more important to me. Pad wise, just get some higher quality semi-metallic pads from the auto parts store (~$25-30). The Nissan pads are geared more towards wear where as higher performance are geared more towards brake distance reduction.

Rotors are easy to replace, simply take off the two caliper mounting bolts, hang the caliper safely and the rotor "should" slide off. Sometimes the rotors rust to hub which requires either that you hit the rotor with a rubber mallet or you can use a 10mm bolt to pull the rotor off the hub. You'll see two threaded holes on the hub of rotor. That's where the bolt threads in and unseats the rotor.

Brake pads are incredibly simple. With the caliper mounted back on the hub assembly, remove the caliper access bolt and the caliper itself swings up out of the way and the pads are sitting right there. Pull the pads out and replace with new. I suggest buying a Chilton's manual (best $18 you'll ever spend) and it will all make sense.


Dave

 

Finally - a post that helps the OP!

 

^^^What he said. That is a good explaination.