Well my car wants to take a crap on me one day before I leave for California, no surprise there...

Anyways, here are the codes it threw:
P0159: 02 sensor ckt slow response bank 2 sensor 2
P1167: Manufacturer control; fuel air metering
P0302: Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0335: Crankshaft position sensor; circuit malfunction.

For P0159 im assuming I just need to replace the 02 sensor. For P0302, that looks to me like it is a bad coil pack, prior to getting this code i was getting the code for "random multiple misfire. For codes P1167 and P0302 im clueless. Can ayone help a poor brother out here??? Please....

 

How were you able to read the codes? Do you have a consult?

 

You have JWT cams and JWT flywheel?

 

Yes I have an OBD 2 scanner. Yes I have cams and fly wheel from JWT, flywheel is installed cams are not.

Now back on topic.

 

Hmmmn...didn't know JWT had a flywheel out yet for the Max....and that is on topic.

Flywheel+UDP might be too light and causing the CPS to misread and/or misfire codes.

As for the P0159: 02 sensor ckt slow response bank 2 sensor 2, where are your REAR 02s now that you have headers?

No idea on the "P1167: Manufacturer control; fuel air metering" code.

I'm trying to think what could have caused ALL these all of sudden.

 

For PO335, did you have the recall work done on the crank sensor? If not, maybe that's the reason for the code.

 

Oooh...good answer.

 

im not sure but could it be from a incorrect gap on your spark plug? for codes 0302 and 1167...Im unsure because I dont know if spark plugs handle fuel air mixture...but from 0302 it should be your spark plug...dont quote me on it tho. Tho if you didnt install the plugs yourself, then it prolly isnt the plugs.

 

Had similar problem codes on my 2k2 but without the misfire. Dealer found a relevant TSB, replaced rear o2 sensors and reprogrammed the ECU. Fixed all the codes and i have not had any more issues.

Crank sensor recall might fix the crank sensor issue if it has not been done on this car yet.

I don't think the coils on 2k2 are issues (yet) so misfire code might be bad gas, or a random problem. Put your OBDII scan tool on and drive around watching the cylinder misfire counts, also look at the # of trips since code set/# of starts. If it's been a while and the misfire counters don't increment then it was probably a random incident!

 

Well I replaced my coil pack and crank sensor today, now it runs real smooth. The only prob I have now is that my computer shuts my fuel off at 5100 rpm due to that lightened fly wheel.

 

Well, I ended up replacing my coil pack on cylinder 2 and getting the crank sensor recall done. Now, my ecu thinks the red line is a t 5100 rpm... Im constantly hitting the friggin rev limiter now. I'm thinking that getting the TS ecu will solve my problems with that issue. I'm over in Santa Monica right now so i could take a cruise over to Torrance on Monday and get it done. What do you guys think? I reset my ecu for the drive to L.A. but that didnt help. You guys got any opinions as to why my rev limiter or fuel shutting down at 5100 rpm is happening??

 

George, you need an SAFC as soon as possible....the ECU is not letting the headers do their thing...........

 

x2389046

I still think your moving too fast man, but hell all the power to you

 

Yup you are right sir. I ordered one last Tuesday. What do you guys think of the TS ecu though. Also what are your opinions on the gay 5100 rpm thing?

 

I'd stop by TS.

Not sure why that 5100rpm is a problem though, since you've never had a problem with the UDP+flywheel before. If you had just put on the UDP, I'd suspect that.

Maybe Danny and the guys at TS can help you figure it out, while they reflash your ECU.

Also, JWT is in El Cajon incase that's resonably close.

Once you get all the gremlins worked out and the cams installed, any plans to dyno?

 

I live in between, TS and JWT, ....Its going to be about a 1.5 hour drive from TS to JWT. El Cajon is st at the eastern edge of San Diego county, headed back towards Phx/ Tucson.....

From what I have read, the TS ecu flash seems to be working better on stock Maxes, as opposd to a heavily modded one like phx's......I know they have a header ECU flash, but I dont think the gains justify the $$ they charge....Just my .02

 

Definately doing a dyno. I dynoed at the recent meet we had and only got up to 219 on the ground, that was before replacing my coil pack and crank sensor, my car is definately having some issues. As for the TS ecu i agree with Gio about the price not meeting the gains, but it is worth it to me if it helps work out the mapping problems in the ecu and gets it purrin like a kitten again.

 

What did you end up doing? Or do you still have the problem? Has the misfire come back?

 

Well I found out a few things. I was getting the 5100 rpm thing cuz i was getting metal shavings from the flywheel being milled a lil too big for the starter. The shavings were getting on the crank position sensor and make it act weird, once I cleaned them off the car revved up fine. I got the s-afc installed and some cams recently and now my car is dynoing at 228 to the ground which is still low. I'm actually going to CA on the 6th of July and am having my ecu reflashed by Techno Square. Im currently having some tuning issues, my car hesitates up to about 4000rpm and then it smoothes out and hauls tail. I think the A/F ratio is not right on the bottom end causing these troubles. Im hoping the TS ecu will do a general fix on that problem then I can fine tune it with the safc later on. Not having misfire problems anymore after replacing the coil pack on cylinder 2.

 

Hope you could figure it all out. I'm dying to know what your impression of the cams are once you get it all sorted out.

BTW, who did your cam install? JWT's?

 

Damn...all these problems are scaring me...I've got some stuff planned along the lines of what you have Phx...

 

Glad you got it figured out. What did you do about the flywheel though? Remove it? I'm curious about the cams too. Can you give us some impressions.

 

The cams are awesome! They reallly haul butt in the high rpm's, its a whole new car in that respect. The flywheel is still in there, i was advised to give it a little time for it to wear down a lil bit so the shavings will go away. Other than the hesitation im not having probs.

 

Welp, I think i just found part of my hesiatation problem. I was outside tinkering with my car when my idle dropped real low and then started pulsating. I thought to myself, " Self, I think you just blew your maf sensor ", So I took out my spare maf and popped it in, wouldn't ya know it she was purring like a kitten again... I dorve it around the block a couple times and for the most part it ran pretty good.

 

hmm, dyno that ish.

btw your car rocks my socks!

how is the lope on the cams? please give us more seat of the pants impressions. Thanks.

 

The cams are very mild, the lope is almost non existant. The cams come alive around 5000 rpm, needless to say I have been getting horrible gas mileage cuz I have been zoomin around all over the place going "wot" all the time. There is some slight low end loss but these cars are torque monsters on the bottom end so its no biggie. I will be hittin the dyno after my ecu is reflashed by Techno Square this Tuesday.

 

Oh Yea... I also am throwing three new ses codes

Two of the codes say that sensor #1 on both banks is reading high volts.
And the other code says that a fuel level circuit has a low input.

These codes are becoming a plague to me.....

 

I'd recommend going to Street Flight and seeing 2K2_6spd(sp?), if he's still around.

He offered $50ish with wideband for 1/2hr, I think, however it has been awhile.

You should get an AFR chart and make sure you take a disk to get the runs saved on.

Did SWA do your cam install?

 

The high volts code is because you're running super rich. TS should be able to fix all that, however with your mods, I'd bet you'll have to get a few dynos and send your ECU back-n-forth a few times for them to get your AFR correct.

 

I had Dyno-Comp do my cams and s-afc.

 

hmm how much did they charge you for install?

I recommend that you dyno FIRST with all your mods and send the plot and A/F graph to TS so that they can give you a program that will suit your needs. Better than to plug in an ecu and realize you're detonating or your A/F is off, and then have to send it back again.

You probably want to leave the S-AFC at stock settings unless you're getting some severe pinging and let TS tune the air fuel for you. Then from there you can do the final adjustments with the AFC when you get the ECU in.

Also you may want to give them the spec's on your cams, duration, lift, etc.. so that they can properly tune the VTC's to it.