clutch fork or slave cylinder
clutch fork or slave cylinder
I have a 92 maxima 4dsc 5spd,the clutch has maybe 10K on it.The slave cylinder blew out on it.My friend put on a new one without installing the clutch fork boot.
Well,the new one blew,he says the fork is messed up and will have to replace the clutch.I say lets put another slave on with the boot installed and see what happens if it blows I'll just tell autozone some story about their junk being like forestcity autoparts.
The fork does wiggle around,but i have no idea if this is normal or not.I've never had to work on a manual transmission before.
Well,the new one blew,he says the fork is messed up and will have to replace the clutch.I say lets put another slave on with the boot installed and see what happens if it blows I'll just tell autozone some story about their junk being like forestcity autoparts.
The fork does wiggle around,but i have no idea if this is normal or not.I've never had to work on a manual transmission before.
the fork should not have much play in it
it should only move left or right and that should take some effort
if it moves up and down, that's not good
I just helped a friend replace a bad throw-out bearing last weekend. The fork felt really loose and moved around a lot. Once we got the tranny out, one of the "ears" of the TO bearing had broken off
You should definitely have the boot on the fork (the one that hold it to the tranny case) so do that first if you haven't already.
it should only move left or right and that should take some effort
if it moves up and down, that's not good
I just helped a friend replace a bad throw-out bearing last weekend. The fork felt really loose and moved around a lot. Once we got the tranny out, one of the "ears" of the TO bearing had broken off
You should definitely have the boot on the fork (the one that hold it to the tranny case) so do that first if you haven't already.
yeah, if it's that loose, I'd be concerned about the T/O bearing or the fork
it isn't all that hard, just takes some time - you need to remove the intake, battery and tray, slave cylinder, various harnesses attached to the tranny, starter, axles and then you can drop the tranny. Be sure to label the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine since they're different lengths
Matt93se has a writeup somewhere. I think it's on www.4dsc.com/articles
the hardest part is physically removing the tranny, it'd help if you had a tranny jack but it's not necessary
while you're in there, you should replace the rear main oil seal just behind the flywheel, axle seals, machine flywheel, maybe replace clutch and pressure plate, TO bearing
good luck
it isn't all that hard, just takes some time - you need to remove the intake, battery and tray, slave cylinder, various harnesses attached to the tranny, starter, axles and then you can drop the tranny. Be sure to label the bolts that hold the tranny to the engine since they're different lengths
Matt93se has a writeup somewhere. I think it's on www.4dsc.com/articles
the hardest part is physically removing the tranny, it'd help if you had a tranny jack but it's not necessary
while you're in there, you should replace the rear main oil seal just behind the flywheel, axle seals, machine flywheel, maybe replace clutch and pressure plate, TO bearing
good luck
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